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THE 



BEAR-WORSHIPPERS 

OF YEZO 

AND THE JSLAiXD OF KAKAFUTO (SAGHALIN) 



THE ADVENTURES OF THE JEWETF FAMILY 
AND THEIR FRIEND OTO NAMBO 



BY 



EDWARD GREEY 



AUTHOR OF ''THE GOLDEN LOTUS," "VOONG AMERICANS IN JAPAN," " THE WONDERFUL CITY 

OK TOKIO," ETC., AND ONE OK THE TRANSLATORS OF THE JAPANESE 

ROMANCE "THE LOYAL RONINS" 



0N2 HUNDRED AND EIGHTY ILLUSTRATIONS BY RINZO AND BY ICHISKE HAMADA 

COVER DESIGNED AND DRAWN BY THE AUTHOR 

BOSTON V^o.wASH^?S 
LEE AND SHEPARD. PUBWS^E^Kl 

NEW YORK 
CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM 

1884 



'"Cv, 



Copyright, 1883, 
By lee and SHEPARD. 



Ali rights reserved. 






PREFACE. 



IN " Young Americans in Japan," I gave some account of the 
southern parts of the empire; and, in "The Wonderful City of 
Tokio," described the various sights, and the arts and manufactures, 
for which the capital is famous. 

The present volume, the last of the series, is devoted to the 
manners and customs of the bear-worshippers of Yezo, and of 
the five tribes inhabiting Karafuto (Saghalin). When I first visited 
the latter island, in 1853, it was a portion of the Empire of Japan; 
but in 1875 it was ceded to Russia, in exchange for the Chishima 
(Kurile) Islands. I spent nearly a year cruising in the northern 
waters, and during that time became well acquainted with the people 
of Karafuto and Yezo ; on one occasion travelling with a boat's crew 
from Soya to Hakodate, and being the guest of the fierce-visaged 
but gentle savages. 

Since then Russia has made a penal settlement of Karafuto, and 
two-thirds of the natives have nominally become Christians. 

When I was in Japan, last summer, I made the acquaintance of 
His Excellency Kunemichi Kitagaki, the governor of Saikio (Kioto), 
who was for some years an official in the Kaitakushi (Department 
of Development) of the Hokkaido (North Sea Circuit). From him 
I learned many interesting particulars relating to the progress made 
by the Ainos in agriculture, etc. ; and I have his authority for stating 
that the natives who left Karafuto when the island was ceded to 
Russia, and who have settled in Sapporo, were not compelled to quit 
their native land, but elected to do so rather than change their 
nationality. 



VI 



PREFACE. 



This book was written to give some information concerning a 
quaint people that are almost unknown to my countrymen, and who, 
like our Indians, are rapidly disappearing from the face of the 



earth. 



-^. 



20 East 17TH Street, New York, 1883. 




NOTES. 



THE illustrations of this volume are, with a few exceptions, by- 
Japanese artists, and are exceedingly graphic and correct. 
I found great difficulty in obtaining pictures of the scenery of such 
remote places as Yezo and Karafuto, and, but for the assistance and 
interest taken in the work by many Japanese friends, would have been 
compelled to relinquish the task. Foremost among those who came to 
my aid were the Hon. S. K. Takahashi, Japanese consul in this city ; 
and Messrs. K. Okui of the consulate of New York ; Tatszgoro Nosse 
of the Kencho, Yokohama; and Ichiske Hamada of Kagoshima, — to 
all of whom I return my very best thanks. 

Mr. Hamada has also rendered me valuable help in searching va- 
rious authorities, and in copying some curious pictures, illustrating the 
peculiar worship of the Ainos, from five makivwno (scrolls) formerly 
belonging to a dainiio of Mito. The woodcuts I have reproduced were 
taken from three interesting works ; viz., " Kita Yezo " (North Yezo), 
" Higashi Yezo, Yoro monogatari " (Night Stories of Eastern Yezo), 
and " Karafuto Niki " (Journal of Travel in Karafuto). These volumes 
also contain much information concerning the inhabitants of the two 
islands. 

To Professor H. S. Munroe, of Columbia College, I am greatly in- 
debted for the loan of a valuable collection of photographs of the Ainos. 

The central picture on the cover represents a group of Yezo chil- 
dren engaged in a game played by throwing a hoop into the air, and 
catching it upon a stick. The bearded savage in the lower corner is 
an Aino whittling inaho (god-sticks). The figure wrestling with a bear 



VUI NOTES. 



is referred to in Chapter VIII. The design in the left upper corner 
frames the Japanese title Kuina Matsiiri (literally, Bear-Festival), and 
upon the red fan I have placed my kaki-han (written seal) and my 
initials. 



EDWARD GREEY. 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter. Page. 

I. Bound for the Far North i 

II. Hakodate 21 

III. Among the Ainos . 48 

IV. Kawanishi 65 

V. In the Mountains of Yezo . . . , .84 

VI. An Aino Home 104 

VII. Bear-hunting 122 

VIII. Iyomante . . . . . , , . . 133 

. IX. In the Wilds of Yezo . . . , . -155 

X. Karafuto {Saghalin) _ . 175 

XI. Among the Samelenko 193 

XII. Moving up the Western Coast of Karafuto . 214 

XIII. With the Colletske 235 

XIV. Among the Oroko 254 

XV. Adieu to Karafuto . 272 

XVI. Down the Eastern Coast of Yezo . . . 283 

XVII. Homeward Bound 297 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 
AiNOS WORSHIPPING THE BEAR, Frontispiece. 
A Street in Hakodate . . . Facing i 
■ Tatszgoro and Mankichi wres- 
tling 2 

The Yashiki Policeman 4 

Japanese Infantry Soldier ... 5 

The Kirin 6 

Fishing for Turbot 7 

Fishing by Torchlight 9 

Japanese Cavalry Soldier .... 10 

A Street in Sendai 11 

Fishing for Awabi 13 

Preparing Awabi for the Market . 15 

Tai-fishing 17 

Shell-fish Culling 19 

Benten-Shima and Obi-Shima ... 22 

Hakodate from the Sea .... 25 

aino rescuing ronin 27 

Japanese Policeman and Aino . . 28 

AiNOS 30 

Inaho 31 

Goddess and her Faithful Attend- 
ant 33 

Performer on the Conch-shell . . 35 

Japanese Fencing 36 

Yezo Crow yj 

Driving Sawara 38 

Fishing for Buri 40 

Seining Blackfish 42 

MOMBETS 43 

Steaming Katsu 45 

NiKAMORI 46 

Aino Hunting 47 

Welcoming a Chief 49 

Sleeping Seal 51 

Spearing a Seal 52 

Menhaden-fishing 53 

"Please give two Shews" .... 54 



Page. 

"Our Interpreter" 55 

Tattooing on Aino Woman's Hand, 56 

Aino Hut 59 

AiNos entertaining Japanese Offi- 
cials 60 

mosha-kina 61 

Ka 62 

Playing the Ka 62 

Seal prepared for Transporta- 
tion 63 

Aino Storehouse 63 

Beckonoshita (gigantic dock) ... 66 

Uncle Remus 68 

Japanese Kitchen at Kawanishi . 69 

Lord of Matsumai and the Ainos, 71 
Invasion of Yezo by the Russians, 

A.D. 1789 73 

Distributing Allowances to Ainos, 74 

Tai-fu-kari Dance 75 

Habo's Father 77 

Wooden Pestle and Mortar . . 78 

OuKARi 80 

OwARi Jar 82 

Winding up the Evening's Enter- 
tainment 83 

Sunrise 85 

Yezo Wild Flowers 87 

A Lazy Aino 89 

Japanese Curios in Aino Hut . . 91 

A Dangerous Crossing 93 

Machi-KORO (Aino marriage) .... 97 

Chief Setta-eye tcx) 

Shitoki lOI 

Setta-eye's Wife 102 

Sett a- eye's Hut 105 

Interior of Setta-eye's Hut, . . 107 

Aino Weapons 108 

Shuttle 109 

xi 



Xll 



ILL USTRA TIONS. 



Page. 
The Jewetts' Home in Hokuyak- 

BETS ■ no 

Iron Pot m 

Setta-eye entertaining his Friends, i i 2 

Punishment of Oukari 114 

Saimon {ordeal by hot water) .... 116 

Aino Hunters 118 

Shooting a trapped Bear .... 120 

Oto's Grandfather hunting . . . 125 

Fitz's Bear 127 

Aino Marriage-Permit 130 

Habo serving Sake 132 

Making Inaho 134 

HhNziNzo Dance 136 

Aino Babies 137 

Tormenting the Bear 138 

Death of the Bear 139 

Aino Chiefs saluting Strangers . 142 

Serving Wine at Iyomante . . . 144 

OuRT Salutation 145 

Aino Woman's Recognition ... 147 

Meeting of Father and Son . . . 148 

Aino wrestling with Bear ... 153 

Lake Kutzu-chako 157 

Yabe {crayfish) fishing 159 

Fort Menka-koshi 161 

An Angry Aino 164 

Label of Sen-kin-tan 166 

In Sight of Mount Ishikari . . 168 

Shibe {bonito) fishing 170 

Northern Seal 171 

Aino Seal-hunters 173 

Hakotan Bay 177 

Aino Girls {Karafuto) 178 

Aino Girl's Girdle 179 

Aino Girl's Dress 179 

KoGOHO {ancient fort) 180 

Aino Hunters {Karafuto) 181 

Preparing a Bear for Captivity . 183 

Cooking-pot 184 

Wood Bowl for Food 184 

Dogs' Nurses 185 

KusHUNAi 187 

Training Sleigh-dogs 188 

Mount Kitoshi 190 

Samelenko Man 192 

Samelenkos 194 

Samelenko Hat and Pillow . . . 195 

Outside of Underground House . 196 

Inside of Underground House . . 197 

Iron Cooking-pot iq8 



Page. 

Samelenko Guitar and Pipes . . . 199 

Boat made by Colletsk6 .... 20c 

Sail made of Fish-skin 201 

Men of Wakee 203 

Wakee Girls 204 

HoiNU {otter-trap) 205 

Samelenko Fox-trap ....... 206 

HoKOBi 207 

Samelenko Lady at her Toilet. . 208 

Samelenko God and God-house . 209 

Samelenko Storehouse 210 

Samelenko Treasures 211 

Samelenko Otter-trap 213 

IsHiRAo. Coast of Tartary in Dis- 
tance 215 

Boys fishing 216 

Samelenko underground Dwell- 
ing 217 

Samelenko Baby 218 

Novel Method of catching Snipe, 221 

Port Tamurao 222 

Samelenko Tomb 223 

Funeral Decorations 224 

Samelenko Woman's Monument . 225 

House in Tamurao 226 

Coat-of-mail 227 

COLLETSKE CANOE 228 

CoLLETSK^ Man and Woman. . . 229 
Tracking along the Shore with 

Dogs 231 

Harbor of Tonu 233 

House in Tonu 235 

Colletsk^ Quiver 236 

KojE, the Smith 237 

Colletske Bellows 238 

Colletsk^ Boat 241 

Colletske Sleigh 242 

Tin Bottle 244 

Colletske Weapons 246 

Toronto Bay 247 

Santan Girls 248 

Santan Summer Residence .... 249 

Santan Storehouse 250 

Santan Deer {tonakai) 251 

Horonai 256 

Oroko Tribe 258 

Jewetts' House in Horonai . . . 261 

Bad News 262 

Capt. Boynton 264 

Woman's Monument 266 

Sledding in the Mud 271 



ILL USTRA TIONS. 



Xlll 



Page. 

Karafuto Ainos' Ouri 273 

Spearing a Seal. . . -^nr 

'^/i 

Ascending Horonobori 276 

AiNO "Pottery Infant" .... 281 

HUROr, SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KaRA- 

FUTO 23, 

PoRo Parumbe's Candy-pull ... 286 



Page. 

Using a Beckonishita Leaf ... 288 

Yezo Hoopoe 33 

Old Time's Rock 290 

AiNo Fox-trap 202 

Chief Hokuyak Namihu 294 

Mrs. Nambo's Dream .... 299 

^^^-^^ . • 304 



THE 



BEAR-WORSHIPPERS 



OF YEZO. 



THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO 
AND SAGHALIN. 



CHAPTER I. 

BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH. 

" The frog in the well has no idea of the great ocean, still he imagines he knows 
every thing. Mizuno of Ota had never been out of his native village; yet when 
he was told abotit the Yezo-jin {Aino) lie laughed, and replied, '■Such tales are very 
good for children : as for vie, I am not acquainted with any one who worships a 
bear.'''' 

THE morning sun was rising over the house-tops at the back 
of the Jewetts' residence in the Kaga Yashiki, Tokio, as 
Fitz Jewett summoned his brother and sister, saying, — 

" Hi-yaku " (hurry upj, " SalHe and Johnnie ! Choso's boy, 
Tatszgoro, is wrestHng with Httle Mankichi ! Do come and 
take a peep at them." 

The young people proceeded to a room overlooking the 
yard, and, pushing aside the shoji (paper-filled window-screen), 
beheld two Japanese children engaged in what may be termed 
the national pastime. They had spread a rush mat on the 
ground, and tied a bamboo across the entrance to the yard in 
order to keep spectators from approaching too near and inter- 
fering with the exhibition. 



2 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

Tatszgoro, whose head was shaven in patches, was a chubby- 
faced, brown-skinned, black-eyed, merry fellow ; and Mankichi 
was as like him as one bean is to another. 

On seeing the Jewetts, Tatszgoro walked round and slapped 
his limbs like a Japanese wrestler, then crouched on the eastern 




TATSZGORO AND MANKICHI WRESTLING. 



end of the mat, clinched his fists, and rested upon them and his 
toes, on all fours. 

Mankichi took his place on the western end of the mat, and 
posed exactly as his comrade had done. 

" Shall I be gioshi ? " (umpire), cried Fitz. 

" Hai, sama ./" (yes, sir), responded the boys, ducking their 
heads respectfully. 

Fitz borrowed his sister's fan, stepped into the veranda, and, 
addressing the spectators, said, — 



BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH. 3 

"You are about to enjoy a great treat. Tatszgoro is a very 
skilful wrestler : his fame is known all over our house ; he is 
the champion of the East. Mankichi, who is no less cele- 
brated, is the rampant roarer of the West. Now hold your 
breath." 

'' Hai! hai ! hai !'' laughingly responded the lookers-on, 
among whom were Gosuke and Shobei the jin-riki-sha men, 
old Sokichi the gardener, and the mombans wife. The latter 
wore high clogs, and carried her babe on her back. 

While Fitz was speaking, the little wrestlers had remained 
perfectly still with their eyes respectfully cast downward. 

The boy waved his fan, after the manner of the gioshi, then 
said in a commanding voice, — 

** Mi a washi ta tokorode'" (look at each other). 

The children obeyed. 

'' Sa!'' (begin), he shouted, stepping back a pace. 

The contestants rose quickly, grasped one another by the 
hands, and proceeded to wrestle like the fat athletes at Eko- 
in.^ 

" Is it not fun ! " observed Sallie, who was resting her chin 
on Johnnie's shoulder. "I do not believe the real sumotori do 
any better." 

When Mankichi grasped Tatszgoro incorrectly, Fitz shook 
his fan, and yelled,^ — 

'' Matai ! matai ! matai !'' (stop, stop, stop). 

On hearing this command, the little fellows relaxed their 
grip, and retired to their respective places. 

After a while Tatszgoro caught Mankichi in a peculiar way, 
and lifted him off the ground ; then suddenly knelt, and pressed 
his opponent's shoulders flat upon the mat, thus gaining the 

' Vide p. 147, "Wonderful City of Tokio." 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



victory. This so delighted Fitz, that he danced round and 
round the combatants, and, taking off his jacket, threw it to 
Tatszgoro, crying, — 

" I will redeem that with ten cents' worth of candy. Yuke, 
yuke " (go on). 

Instead of complying, the children rushed in-doors, and 

the Japanese spectators made* off 
with great precipitation. The young 
Americans turned to ascertain the 
cause, and beheld a Yashiki police- 
man, who was hated by the servants 
on account of his arrogant ways. 
He swaggered past the house as 
though the place belonged to him, 
and seemed to be suffering from 
sake. 

"I do not like that man," said 
Sallie. " He frightens the children, 
and the other day he arrested my 
cat. No wonder the little ones are 
afraid of him." 

While they were speaking they 
heard their father calling for them. Presently Professor 
Jewett and his wife entered the room; and the former 
said, — 

" I have news for you. A government steamer leaves for 
Yezo at four o'clock, and we are going in her. Make haste : 
there is no time to lose." 

" I have had my trunk packed for the last month, sir," said 
Fitz. " We are ready to go right away." 

At noon the Professor and his family started in their jin- 




iJsS^-" 



THE YASHIKI POLICEMAN: 



BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH. 



riki-sha for the Shimbashi depot, a dozen servants following 
with the bao-p-aee. 

They took the train for Yokohama, and arrived at the settle- 
ment about two o'clock. The Professor, being upon govern- 
ment duty, was met by Capt. Imadate, who escorted them to 
his boat, which was lying alongside the English hatoba (wharf) . 
Soon they were being rowed swiftly to the Japanese man-of- 
war, in which they were to embark, 
and within an hour were steaming 
down the Bay of Yedo. 

The vessel was entirely officered 
and manned by Nihonese, and the 
discipline was perfect. There was a 
detachment of troops on board ; and 
as soon as the vessel was under way, 
the soldiers were mustered, and the 
roll called. 

" How badly their clothes fit 
them ! " remarked Fitz. " The pants 
look as though they were made by 
machinery." 

''They can fight, spite of their 
clumsy looks," retorted Johnnie. 
** After all, I have seen foreign soldiers who were not any better 
dressed than these, and who could not fight a bit." 

The men were drilled, then dismissed; after which the 
colonel approached the Jewetts, and said, — 

" We are going to land at Sendai, and shall not have the 
pleasure of accompanying you to Hakodate. Do you know 
that your friend Dr. Nambo will join you there ? He embarked 
by the steamer that preceded us." , 




JAPANESE INFANTRY SOLDIER. 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Yes, I am aware that the doctor will be one of our party," 
answered the Professor. " I do not believe my family would 
enjoy the trip north unless our friend accompanied us." 

"For what are we slowing up?" inquired Fitz ; "and why 
are the people clustering in the bow ? " 

" Come and see," said the colonel. " I think we have 
stopped in order to avoid running down a fishing-craft." 

They went forward, and beheld a most interesting sight, — 
fishermen hauling in their net, which was alive with enormous 

karei (flounders) and crabs. 



The men worked with a will, 
and soon the gigantic net was 
drawn on board ; then sail was 
trimmed, and the fune (junkj 
and steamer rapidly parted com- 
pany. 

" We should starve without 
those fellows," said the captain. 
" There is not a mile of water 
belonging to the Japanese Em- 
pire that is not searched for 

I HE MRIN. 

food. We pride ourselves up- 
on the ability of our fishermen." 

"Dinner is ready, Sama,'' said the captain's steward, saluting 
respectfully. 

"And so am I ! " exclaimed Fitz. "The salt air has made 
me very hungry." 

Upon descending to the saloon they found the table spread 
in foreign fashion, and soon every one was enjoying the repast. 

" Why do you have the kirin carved upon the woodwork?" 
inquired Johnnie. 




8 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" It is often used in conjunction with the kiri-mon " 
(imperial crest), answered the commander. " Some people 
believe it to be the guardian of the imperial family. Being 
a sailor, I do not know much about these things." 

After dinner they adjourned to the quarter-deck, and 
listened to the band, which entertained them with native 
and foreign airs. 

At ten o'clock they retired ; and soon the thud of the screw, 
and the lapping of the waves against the ship's side, were the 
only sounds that broke the stillness of the night. 

About two A.M., Fitz awoke, and, looking through the port, 
saw lights flickering upon the water ; whereupon he roused his 
brother, remarking, — 

" Say, Johnnie, let us go on deck and see the fun. We are 
approaching a narrow channel between the mainland and some 
islands, and I want to learn how those fellows work their 
torches." 

The lads put on their Japanese khnono, which they wore 
as dressing-gowns, and proceeded up the companion-ladder ; 
at the top of which they were greeted by the first lieutenant, 
who said, — 

'' Ohayo !'' ("you are early," equivalent to our "good- 
morning.") "Are your beds too hard?" 
'^ "Oh, no!" answered Johnnie. "This scene is too inter- 
esting to miss." 

They approached the ship's side, and, as the vessel threaded 
her way among the boats, watched the fishermen at their 
occupation. 

In the bow of each craft was an iron cresset, that projected 
about a yard from the side, and in which burned pine-knots 
and other inflammable kindling, that flared and attracted the 



lO 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



fishes. The men all wore broad bamboo hats and blue cotton 
shirts, and had straw coats tied about their waists. They 
fished with lines, and the sinkers were tied within a foot of 
the hooks. When a big fish was caught, the captor would yell 
exultingly, and boast about the size of his prize. 
" Phew ! " said Fitz, " what an unpleasant odor ! " 
"It is the clams they use for bait," said the first lieutenant, 
" The fish like them when they are very stale." 
" So I should think," grimly observed Johnnie. 
The air was too cool to allow them to remain on deck with 
any pleasure : so the boys presently returned to their beds, and 

w^ere soon once more fast asleep. 

When they awoke they found that 
the vessel was running along the coast, 
which was very romantic and beauti- 
ful. 

On the morning of the second day 
they anchored in the Bay of Sendai, 
and the American party went on shore. 
Upon approaching the landing- 
place, they were saluted by Dr. Oto 
Nambo, who said, imitating the New- 
England drawl of an old fisherman at 
Cromlech, — 

" We 11, I thought you was never coming." 

"Who is your friend?" asked Johnnie in English, indicating 
a soldier who was seated on the wharf behind Oto. 

" He Is a cavalryman, one of my patients," said Oto jocosely. 
" Do not be rude to me, or he may cut off your head. He was 
formerly a ronmy 

" I should think so," said Fitz. " In the olden times the 




JAPANESE CAVALRY SOLDIER. 



BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH. 



II 



ronin disguised themselves by wearing hats that concealed 
their faces : now they are completely lost in their boots." 

" Do hush, Fitz," whispered Sallie. " Perhaps he can under- 
stand English." 

Oto helped them on shore, then said, — 

" I am real glad to see you all. The ship will remain here 
for a day, so you will have time to visit the awabi fishery." 




A STREET IN SENDAl. 



" What a queer old street ! " said Sallie, as they ascended the 
main thoroughfare. " I should die if I had to live in such a 
place as this." 

" Then you would not have to live here," quietly answered 
Johnnie. " Sallie is always going to die when every thing is 
not in apple-pie order." 

They ascended the steps of the street, and, turning to the 
left, entered a Japanese yadoya (inn), where they found an 
excellent repast had been prepared for them. 



12 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"Oh, baked beans!" shouted the irrepressible. "This is 
what I call a civilized place." 

When the meal was over, the party engaged jin-inki-sha, 
and rode along the coast until they reached the scene of the 
awabi fishery, — a rocky promontory round which were moored 
a number of boats. 

Professor Jewett, who was somewhat fond of lecturing, 
turned to his children, and said, — 

" The awabi, or rather the haliotis htberctdata, commonly 
called the sea-ear, is a univalve shell-fish, which is gathered 
from the sides of rocks that are always submerged." 

" Please spare us. Professor," murmured Mrs. Jewett, who 
feared a prolonged dissertation on conchology. " I believe the 
children are pretty well posted." 

" Yes, mother," said Fitz, with a nod. " We have had all 
the varieties of haliotis for breakfast, tiffin, and dinner. Guess 
we will recognize them when we see them." 

The Professor stroked his beard, but did not continue his re- 
marks ; then, seating himself upon the rocks, watched the fishing. 

The boats were secured close to the shore, and were already 
somewhat heavily laden with awabi. Each craft carried two 
divers ; excepting the one at the extreme end of the point, 
from which Oto informed them a man had been lost on the 
previous day. "Eaten by an octopus'' (devil-fish), he sen- 
tentiously remarked. "That is his little boy in the boat: do 
you not notice how sad he looks ? " 

The divers wore what Fitz termed straw waistcoats : other- 
wise they were lightly clad. They stood in the bows of their 
boats, and, after securing ropes about their bodies, dived head- 
long into the waves. Each carried an iron instrument in his 
girdle with which to detach the awabi from the rocks. 



14 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The Americans watched the men with great interest, and 
saw them crawl along the bottom of the sea and secure the 
coveted prizes. Upon reaching the surface they handed the 
fish to their comrades, who put them in baskets, and commented 
as follows : — 

"That is a very large one," or otherwise: "I like a man 
who keeps his eyes open under water. Now, good friend, take 
a long breath, and descend again. The days are short, and 
we want to make all the money we can." 

The party spent about an hour seeing the divers, then fol- 
lowed Oto to a nook in which men, women, and children were 
busy preparing the azvabi for market. 

When the boats filled with fish were landed on the beach, 
they were unloaded by men, who, as they worked, uttered loud 
cries, and bore the baskets to mats spread upon the sand. 

The awabi has gristly flesh, like a little-neck clam. The 
fish that are not despatched fresh to the market are pared, 
like apples, into long strips, which are laid on mats, and dried 
in the sun and air. 

Everybody was very busy, — some paring, others spreading 
the strips on mats, and the remainder of the party packing the 
dried fish. All were full of fun, and seemed to make a picnic 
of the business. 

The scene was certainly an animated one ; but the odor was 
not pleasant, so the spectators did not remain very long. 

As they walked back to Sendai, Sallie remarked, — 

" I do not believe your fishermen possess the sense of smell, 
or they never could bear what they do." 

" Oh ! I do not know so much about that," quietly responded 
Oto. " I recollect feeling quite overpowered by the perfume 
of the menhaden -oil factories of Gloucester." 



1 6 THE BEAR-WORSHIPFERS OF YEZO. 

" Yes," said Fitz, with a chuckle. " Do you remember, 
when you remarked about the scent, the proprietor told you 
that the money he earned by the business was sweet ? " 

Sallie smiled, nodded, and said, — 

" I suppose there is really not much difference between the 
Japanese and American fish-business." 

Upon turning a point of the coast, they beheld a most ani- 
mated scene. Four boats, manned by lightly clad fishermen, 
were working a net in which they had just made a haul of tai, 
a kind of shad. The net was secured to two boats, and the fish 
were being taken from it with scoops shaped like those used 
to catch butterflies. As one boat was filled, it was rowed to the 
shore, emptied, and hurried back to the scene of operation. 

" Gracious ! are they not excited ? " exclaimed Sallie. 

"There is money in it," said Johnnie, "Each tai is worth 
five sen to the men. They do not make such a haul every 
day. You shout, do you not, when you catch a fish ? " 

" No, she screams," said Fitz. " She says, ' I cannot touch 
it ! Take it away : it will bite me ! ' " 

*' Do not tease me, brother," pleaded Sallie. " You know I 
dislike to give any thing pain." 

" Come," said the Professor, " I think we had better be 
moving. I do not know how you feel : I am hungry." 

" Well, sir, I would not object to a planked shad myself," 
said Fitz. " I vote we secure some." 

Upon asking the fishermen the price, they said one yen 
(dollar) each, and they would not take any less. 

"Then we will go without," said Mrs. Jewett. "I think it 
is an imposition to ask more here than they do in the Tokio 
market." 

As the party moved away, the fishermen called out, — 



1 8 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" You may have as many as you want for ten cents each." 

When the foreigners had gone a Httle distance, a woman ran 
after them with a string of the finest tai, and, smiUng, said, — 

" Please accept these, and give us any thing you Hke." 

" Give her a chW (note to be paid by their house-steward 
in Tokio), said Fitz. 

Every one laughed at this ; and a bargain was made with 
the woman, who, for twenty-five sen, agreed to carry the tai to 
Sendai. 

When the travellers neared the town, they noticed a great 
many rows of stakes driven in the water along the flat portions 
of the shore. 

" Those are oyster and mussel farms," said Oto. " Millions 
of bushels are annually raised in this manner. Tall bamboos 
are driven into the mud, and formed into barriers, to which the 
shell-fish readily attach themselves. When the tide is coming 
in, the doors of the enclosures are opened ; and as soon as it 
begins to turn, they are closed again in order to cut off the 
retreat of the fishes. At low water the owners of the pound 
enter it, and secure their victims, and rake off whatever shell- 
fish they require. This method is pursued all round the coast 
of Japan and Yezo, and is a source of great wealth ; the oyster- 
farmers paying a tax to the government." 

" It seems to me, in Japan, every thing pays a tax to the 
government," remarked Fitz. 

" Yes, we tax a good many articles," quietly replied Oto ; 
" and so do you, if my memory serves me rightly. I think it 
ought to convince you how closely we have copied American 
customs." 

Fitz whistled, then made a grimace as though he wished he 
had not spoken. 



20 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

They soon after entered their: J in-riki-s ha, and were rapidly 
conveyed to the inn ; on nearing which the Professor sniffed, 
and remarked, — 

" I smell the odor of the serranus marginalis." 

His surmise proved to be correct ; among the dishes served 
being a fine specimen of the tai they had seen caught that 
afternoon. 

At ten o'clock the next morning the party re-embarked on 
board the man-of-war, and started up the coast. 



HAKODATE. 2 1 



CHAPTER II. 

HAKODATE. 

''Fresh at?- is a very excellent thing. One enjoys plenty of this in the chief city 
of Yezo, where, in order to keep a roof over their heads, the people have to cover 
the shingles with huge rocks. 

''It is said, when Futen {the god of the winds) unties his bag he always points 
its neck in the direction of Hakodate.'" 

n^HE Americans landed at several places along the coast, so 
1 the ship did not reach Tsugaru Strait until the afternoon 
of the third day. 

As they neared Yezo, they saw a cluster of islands, on one 
of which were two toiHi and a little temple. 

"That, to the left, is Benten-shima." said Oto. "The one 
behind it is Obi-shima. The sailors go to Benten's temple to 
say their last prayer before they proceed to sea, the queen of 
the ocean being their patroness." 

" Why do those fu7ie (junks) have diamond-shaped marks 
on their sails ?" . ' - 

"That was one of the badges of the Lord of Matsumai," 
replied the young doctor. "Although the title of daijnio is 
abolished, these old-fashioned captains of junks still carry the 
crest of their former chief on their sails. They are mostly 
ignorant men who do not read the newspapers." 

" In which direction is Hakodate?" inquired Sallie. 

" Round tlie point to the right," answered Oto. " We shall 
probably come to anchor in about an hour." 



22 



THE BEAT WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



They chatted with the officers, who told them that the 
vessel expected to take the party to Karafuto (SaghaHn), 
the most northerly of the two islands, and that the captain 
had received orders to convey the Professor to whatever part 
of Yezo he decided to visit. 

" Look at those big fish ! " excitedly exclaimed Sallie, point- 
ing to a school of whales making into the harbor. 

" We call them Aino beef," said Oto. " The savages on the 
coast would die if it were not for those creatures; besides. 




BENTEN-SHIMA AND OBI-SHIMA. 



there is a great business done in exporting the dried flesh to 
Japan, and in the oil which is sold to foreigners." 

"You speak as though you were no longer in your native 
country," said Mrs. Jewett. 

Oto changed color, and replied, — 

" Indeed, this is not Japan. It is merely a dependency 
which we colonize and protect." 

" You mean rule," said the matter-of-fact Fitz. " England 
has seized India under the plea of protecting it." 

"Yezo is not like India," said the Professor: " it is really a 



HAKODATE. 23 

portion of great Japan, peopled by an aboriginal race ; " adding 
with a sly glance at Oto, " I do not mean to assert that your 
ancestors were Ainos." 

As they neared Hakodate, they saw that the city consisted 
of long, straggling streets at the base of a tolerably high hill ; 
the harbor being formed by a neck of land, something like 
Marblehead on the eastern shore of Massachusetts. 

Numbers of fune (junks) were moored off the point ; some 
American whalers, British men-of-war, and foreign merchant- 
ships were anchored in the harbor ; and the water was alive 
with native boats propelled by scantily costumed sendo (boat- 
men), who, as they passed the vessel, shouted a welcome to 
the new-comers. 

The Jewetts disembarked in a ship's-boat, and were taken 
to the residence of one of Oto's relatives, who welcomed them, 
and placed his house at their disposition. 

"Where are the Ainos ? " inquired Sallie. "I expected to 
see lots of them on the streets." 

Mr. Yamamoto, their host, who had spent some years in 
the States, smiled as though very much amused ; then, bowing, 
said, — 

" We have very few Ainos in Hakodate, and just at pres- 
ent those are away fishing. We treat them as you do your 
Indians." 

" Kill them off, eh ? " said Fitz. 

" Oh, no ! " gently answered Mr. Yamamoto, " What I 
meant was this : We are gradually colonizing this island, and 
endeavoring to reclaim it for agricultural purposes : however, in 
doing so, we have no desire to exterminate the Ainos, who are 
very harmless people." 

"That is most humane of you," said Mrs. Jewett. " I think 



24 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

it is much better to try and improve the condition of savages, 
than to goad them into desperation, and shoot them down when 
they rebel." 

" Dinner is served, Sama" said Mr. Yamamoto's chief ser- 
vant, who during the conversation had entered the doorway, 
where he knek and bowed his head to the mats. 

" Please follow me," said their host, leading the way to an 
adjoining apartment. " I regret to have to offer you such poor 
entertainment, but up here in Yezo one has to suffer many 
hardships." 

As he ended his speech he bowed, drew in his breath 
politely, and conducted them into a room where they found a 
table spread in American fashion. 

The Jewetts thoroughly enjoyed their repast ; at the conclu- 
sion of which Mr. Yamamoto asked them to visit his library, 
which was filled with the best foreign and Japanese works. 

Fitz halted before a picture on the wall, and inquired, — 

" Will you please tell me what this represents ? " 

" Yes, with pleasure," answered their new friend. " Many 
years ago three ronin samurai arrived in Aomori on their way 
to this city. They were pursued by some of the Shogun's 
soldiers, who had orders to bring back their heads. The 
people of Aomori did not favor the ronin, and the fishermen 
' refused to take them across the strait. In their desperation 
they proceeded as far as Omasaki. Presently they saw behind 
them in the distance the soldiers of the Shogun, who had 
tracked them from Yedo. This sight made the poor fellows 
desperate, and they concluded to die rather than surrender. 
As they rushed down to the water's edge, they beheld an Aino 
boat rising and falling on the billows. 

" ' Let us swim out to it,' said the leader. ' We will seize 
the craft which the gods have sent us.' 



26 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" In another moment they were making their way through 
the surf; while their pursuers stood on the strand, and vainly 
discharged arrows at the fugitives. Upon nearing the boat, an 
Aino rose in the stern, and, regarding them with amazement, 
inquired, — 

" ' What do you want ? ' 

" As neither of the ronin understood the Aino tonsfue, 
they scrambled on board, and pointed toward Yezo. 

" The chief nodded his head, seized his paddle, walked 
forward, and began to prod at what looked like six brown sacks 
lying in the bow. These proved to be as many Aino women, 
who, rousing from their slumber, grasped the line attached to 
the stone that served for an anchor, and dragged the heavy 
weight from the bottom. 

" After much exertion they were ready to start, and, taking 
up their paddles, headed the craft for Hakodate. 

"This picture was painted by a friend of mine named 
Jiu-bu." 

"I do not think he was a very great artist," critically 
observed Fitz. " It appears all of a jobble." 

" It represents a jobbling sea," said Sallie. 

" What is jobble ? " inquired their host. 

" It means water twisting and tumbling as that does. You 
won't find the word in the dictionary : it was invented by a 
tea-merchant in Yokohama." 

" Ah ! " sighed Mr. Yamamoto, " the tea-merchants of Yoko- 
hama have added some extraordinary words to the language of 
Dai Nikon y 

The evening was passed in looking over pictures, and chat- 
ting about their prospective trip into the interior. 

Professor Jewett consulted with the captain of the man-of- 



'MM 

mw 





it. 




28 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



war, and finally decided to wait a day or two in Hakodate, then 
proceed to Nikamori, whence they would penetrate northward, 
and re-embark at Diakotan for Saofhalin. 

The next morning they went out to see the sights of 
Hakodate, a city said to contain thirty-seven thousand people. 

" I do not know where they all are," remarked Johnnie. 
" I think they must be stowed away indoors. This is a deadly 
lively place." 




JAPANESE POLICEMAN AND AINO. 



•' Hullo ! " exclaimed Fitz, as they neared a ward division. 
"What is that policeman looking at? He appears to be 
mightily puzzled." 

His friends glanced at the official, who was regarding a man 
crouching in the street, with the greatest curiosity ; the police- 
man having only that day arrived in the island. 

"That is a Yezo-jin" (Aino), answered Mr. Yamamoto. 
" He is as much amazed as the new-comer. The officer will 
soon get used to such sights, and will make the Aino obey him. 
Would you like to visit the post-office and custom-house ? " 



HAKODATE. 29 

" I would rather go to the theatre," said Fitz. '* Is not that 
one ahead, on our left ? " pointing to a low building, the eaves 
of which were adorned with highly colored pictures, represent- 
ing scenes in plays, which a man was repairing, and tying to 
the frame-work. 

"There is no performance this week," said Mr. Yamamoto. 
" Our only amusements, just now, are some celebrated fencers 
from Tokio, who exhibit this afternoon." 

The shops were filled with miscellaneous articles ; among 
which were beautiful bear and dog skins, and some clumsy 
imitations of American canned provisions. 

None of the houses were high. All were of wood ; and the 
shingles of the roofs were held down by enormous stones, an 
inexpensive way of securing them during the gales for which 
the region is famous. 

Notwithstanding Fitz's objection, they visited the hospital, 
which was under the charge of Dr. Fucasi, a very able surgeon, 
who was assisted by six graduates of the Imperial College of 
Tokio. 

"We have accommodation for over a hundred patients," 
said the doctor ; " and we use foreign beds. All the arrange- 
ments were planned by a well-known American physician and 
surgeon, — Dr. Stuart Eldridge of Yokohama. We are greatly 
indebted to him for many things." 

He conducted them through the buildings ; and, on arriving 
at the reception-room for patients, said, — 

" I have two Ainos waiting to consult me. Would you like 
to see them ? " 

" Yes," answered the Professor. " My boys are most 
anxious to interview the Yezo-jin." 

Dr. Fucasi ushered them into the apartment, where they 



30 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



beheld two stout-looking savages, clothed in garments made of 
brown fibre obtained from the bark of a tree ; portions of the 
dresses being decorated with blue bands embroidered with 
white cotton. Their faces were not like the Japanese : their 
hair was very soft, and somewhat wavy ; their eyebrows, mus- 
taches, and beards were 
thick and heavy ; their fore- 
heads high, broad, and mas- 
sive ; their frames strong 
and well knit ; their noses 
flat, and their mouths wide ; 
and, though their unkempt 
hair gave them a somewhat 
ferocious look, their man- 
ners were gentle, and their 
voices singularly low and 
musical. 

On seeing the visitors, 
they saluted them by ex- 
tending their hands and 
waving them towards their 
faces. 

The elder of the Ainos, 
who was a chief, carried a 
bow and arrows ; to the quiver of which were fastened a number 
of inaho (god-sticks), without which these strange people never 
think of travelling. 

The inaho is made of a piece of pine-wood whittled in a 
peculiar way, so as to leave it covered with tiny curled shav- 
ings. It is their idea of a god, and their charm to ward off 
danger. No Aino knows its origin, or do any two of them 




[from photograph loaned by prof, munroe.] 



HAKODATE. 



31 



use it in exactly the same manner. It is possibly a relic of an 
ancient religion, and is not in any way related to the gohei of 
Japan. 

The men, being the first natives seen closely by the Ameri- 
cans, were objects of great inter- 
est to the young people, who put 
a number of questions to them ; 
Dr. Fucasi acting as interpreter. 

The chief said they had no 
written characters for their lan- 
guage, and consequently pos- 
sessed no books ; that they 
believed in good and bad kami 
(gods), and that in order to 
please them they ought to drink 
plenty of sake (rice-wine) . 

" That is a very Western be- 
lief," said Mrs. Jewett. " Many 
of our people are more devoted 
to the evil spirit of wine than 
to the spirit of truth." 

" It shows that the Ainos 
are civilized," said the Profes- 
sor. " I am afraid intemper- 
ance is a disease common to 

INAHO. 

poor humanity of all nations." 

Dr. Fucasi conducted the party to his residence, where he 
entertained them with tea and cakes. 

" What was the origin of the Aino ? " inquired Johnnie. 

The doctor smiled, then said, — 

** Once upon a time, when the gods lived on the earth, 




32 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

a beautiful goddess appeared off Yezo in a boat. She was 
accompanied by a faithful dog, who had been with her in all 
her wanderings." 

" Did he steer the craft?" inquired Fitz. 

"The fact is not recorded," answered the doctor, whose 
eyes twinkled with fun. " They probably performed the duty 
by turns." 

" Please don't interrupt, brother," said Sallie. "The legend 
is very interesting." 

Dr. Fucasi continued, — 

" Upon landing, the lady sought shelter in a cave, where she 
spent her time in writing poems and in weeping. There," 
pointing to a kakemono on the wall, " is a representation of the 
scene. You will notice the faithful dog is bringing her a fish." 

" It must have been rather an uncomfortable place for her 
to camp in," said Fitz. " I would have launched the boat 
again, and gone to a place where there were houses. She 
appears to have let down her back hair, and to have abandoned 
herself to grief." 

- " No doubt the true interpretation of the legend is this," 
said the doctor. " One of the princesses of Japan was, with 
her attendants, banished to this island, where she was well 
received by the natives, who called themselves Aino. This 
\sounds like our Japanese word inu (dog), hence the story that 
a faithful dog fed the unhappy goddess. I believe we Japan- 
ese invented the tale, and first told the Yezo-jin of their' curious 
origin. The natives say, 'The Aino man is as strong, fierce, and 
brave as a dog; and that the Aino woman is as gentle as the 
kami from whom she is descended.' " 

" I presume it is a sort of Darwinism," said the Professor. 
" Doctor, what are the principal characteristics of the Aino?" 



34 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"They are, when sober, good-tempered and kindly; but, as 
a rule, lazy, and inclined to take life easily. I never knew one 
of them to suffer from a nervous disorder." 

They took leave of the doctor, and returned to their 
friend's house, where they met some of the officials of the 
Kaitakushi, i.e., the department for the improvement of Yezo, 
which island is termed by the Japanese Government the 
Hokkaido, or North Sea Circuit. 

One of them had brought a sho-mon (passport) from the 
governor, which gave the Professor and his party special 
privileges, and instructed all officials to entertain and assist 
him. 

When the visitors had retired, Oto said to the boys, — 

" Let us go and see the fencing. It is good fun, and I 
am sure your mother and sister will excuse us." 

"I will accompany you," said the Professor. "These exhi- 
bitions always interest me." 

They walked down the street, and soon arrived at a house 
above which was a sign inscribed, — 

" Great artists from Tokio. Wonderful exhibition of fen- 
cing with swords, spears, and other weapons. By permission of 
his excellency the governor. Admission five rin " (half a. 
cent). 

"This is a very inexpensive entertainment," said Professor 
Jewett, as he tendered his money. 

" Would your excellency like private seats for your party ? "^ 
asked the ticket-seller. " The price for such accommodation is 
only one yen " (dollar). 

The offer was accepted ; and they entered the building, a 
barn-like shell, In the centre of which was a raised structure,, 
loosely floored with planks. 



HAKODATE. 



35 



Near the stage stood a young man, partly dressed in armor, 
whose head bristled like a field of young rice, who wore Ameri- 
can spectacles and a samurai sword, and who was producing 
most doleful noises from an enormous conch-shcd. 

Fitz regarded him ruefully, then said to Oto, — 

" He toots that horn more persistently than old Jem, who 
sells clams at Cromlech ; does 
he not? " 

"Yes," answered the 
young doctor, "It is hard 
work. Here come the fen- 
cers." 

Two lads and an old man 
mounted the stage, and, 
kneelino- in a row, bowed re- 
spectfull)-, until their fore- 
heads touched the boards. 
Then the elder, half rising, 
leaned upon his fan, and said 
in a sinor-sono- voice, — 

" Tanaka and Nakayama. 
Two of the most celebrated 
fencers in Tokio. They will 
now give an exhibition with 
the shine'' (bamboo- staff) "and the kaina'''' (bamboo-sickle). 
The combatants then rose, and proceeded to array themselves 
for the fray. 

First they put on hakaina (trousers), then breastplates and 
waist-armor, after which they donned thickly wadded helmets 
and masks and gloves. 

The master of the ceremonies, who was comically precise 




PERFORMER ON THE CONCHSHELL. 



36 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



in his actions, regarded them paternally, and, when they were 
accoutred, signalled them to attack. They danced round, and 
struck one another in a very lively fashion, but did not appear 
to mind taking punishment. 

Fitz, as usual, became excited, and at the conclusion of a 




JAPANESE FENCING. 



rally, when the bamboos had given out sparks, threw his hat on 
to the platform, shouting, — 

" That is good for a dollar ; " meaning he would redeem it 
at the price named after the exhibition was over. 

The Professor frowned, and observed, " My son, do not be 
so impulsive. Such an act is not dignified." 

The boy's face flushed; and he murmured, "Thought, after 
whacking each other like that, the poor fellows ought to have 
some little encouragement." 

The entertainment terminated with a passage-at-arms be- 



HAKODATE. 



Z1 



tween the master of the ceremonies and four of his pupils, which 
afforded the greatest amusement to the young Americans. 

As the party quitted the building, they noticed a bird perched 
on the neighboring fence, making a great chatter. 

"That is a kaj^asii,'' (crow), said Oto. "They are great 
thieves, and are quite common in this island," 

"We have them at home," said Johnnie. " I kept a tame 
one for a long time. He stole Sallie's earrings, and gave us a 
good deal of trouble. Do your crows do such things ? " 

" No," gravely answered Oto : " they are not civilized enough 
for that ; " adding, " They con- 
fine their attention to huntine 
for food, and have no taste for 
jewelry." 

They returned to their 
friend's house, and spent the 
evening in superintending the 
packing of provisions, etc., for 
the journey through the in- 
terior. 

" You will be able to se- 
cure the services of any number of Ainos," remarked Mr. Yama- 
moto : "they are very docile, and can carry great burdens." 

On the following day the party inspected the prison, and 
were very much interested in all they saw. 

The inmates work at various trades, do engraving and paint- 
ing, and manufacture perfumery, candles, soap, and furniture. 
They appeared to be very comfortable, received pay for all their 
labor, and were charged for the cost of their maintencince ; the 
balance of their earnings being handed to them when their sen- 
tences expire. The prison uniform was a red kimono, which 




YEZO CROW. 



HAKODATE. 39 

color was therefore not popular among their fellow-townsmen. 
Certainly no nation can accuse the Japanese of treating their 
prisoners harshly. 

After visiting the principal temple, the Americans returned 
to Mr. Yamamoto's house, and devoted their time to writing 
home. 

" The Mitsu-bishi steamer leaves to-morrow for Yokohama," 
said the Professor, addressing his children. " It will be your 
last chance for many a long day. We shall probably spend two 
months in the interior : so write to the good folks at Cromlech, 
and tell them they need not expect to hear from you before 
June or July." 

Upon the following mornings the party re-embarked in the 
man-of-war, and steamed across Volcano Bay. 

"We shall touch at one or two places before we land you," 
said the captain. " I have to visit several fishing-stations." 

Towards noon they came in sight of a number of boats, 
driving sawara, a sort of Spanish mackerel. The fishermen 
rowed with their faces to the bow, and yelled vociferously, hurl- 
ing great stones, and splashing the water in order to head the 
fish in the required direction. When this was accomplished, 
they joined two nets together, and, surrounding the school, con- 
trived to capture the whole of it. 

The vessel touched at Yubets, where there was quite a large 
fishing-station, and where the travellers had an opportunity of 
seeing the working of the big seines used In capturing buri. 
The net must have been half a mile long ; and it was dragged 
towards the shore by stout cables attached to upright windlasses 
worked by Japanese, no Ainos being employed by the company 
who owned that part of the coast. 

As the ends of the seine neared the beach, fishermen 



HAKODATE. 



41 



Stationed in boats inside the lines rattled bamboos fastened to 
the top of poles, shouted, and clapped pieces of wood together, 
in order to drive the biLvi into the body of the net. It was a 
most animated scene, — the fish jumping in schools from the 
water, their stomachs flashing in the sun ; the boatmen ply- 
ing their instruments, and uttering savage cries ; and the men 
at the capstan straining and tugging as though their future 
happiness depended upon their exertions. 

The voyagers proceeded from Yubets to Mombets ; passing 
on the way a fleet of boats engaged in catching a large species 
of blackfish, which were dried and sent to Kobe and Tokio. 

One of the craft boarded the man-of-war ; and the fisher- 
men presented the captain with several buid, that flapped about 
on the deck as though desirous of returning to their native 
element. 

Mombets proved to be a mean-looking place, occupied by 
Japanese and Aino fishermen in about equal numbers. 

The American party landed, and saw the process of drying 
buri, and making oil of a species of menhaden, which were 
tried out In a pan set over a charcoal-fire. The oil spattered in 
all directions, and the fish were put in the pan by suspending 
them from the end of a long bamboo set In a revolving post. 
Drift-wood was used as fuel ; but, being saturated with salt 
water, It did not burn very freely. 

A long-tailed rooster was perched on the top of one of the 
houses, sunning and drying his plumage. 

Mombets, like all similar villages, was mal-odorous, and did 
not offer any inducements for the party to linger there. 

They continued along the coast, which was lined with fish- 
ing-stations that gave abundant evidence of the perseverance, 
enterprise, and Intelligence of the Japanese. 



44 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The ship ran close enough to the shore to enable the 
travellers to witness many very interesting sights. 

At one place an enormous seine filled with katsii was being 
hauled up the beach, and its flapping contents thrown into 
frames placed over furnaces fitted with pans of water which 
were steaming at a great rate. When the katstt. were 
thoroughly cooked, they were boned, and the flesh dried upon 
mats spread upon the sand. 

The floats on the nets used in capturing katsu were made 
in the shape of little barrels, and were buoyant enough to pre- 
vent the seines from being drawn under water by the powerful 
fish. 

" There is an Aino hunting ! " cried Johnnie, pointing to 
a shock-headed, bearded figure upon a rocky promontory. 
" Look ! he has just discharged an arrow, and is watching to 
see if he has secured a prize." 

The savage noticed them, then hid himself among the bam- 
boo grass, like a bashful child, and did not re-appear as long as 
the vessel was in sight. 

" You will see enough of them before you come on board 
again," said the captain. " For my part, I think they are little 
better than animals. That fellow could drink as much sake as 
any ten Japanese." 

"Are you a teetotaller, captain?" innocently inquired Sallie. 

This made the commander smile ; and he answered, — 

" Oh, no ! I only recommend it for the Ainos. Sake does 
them a great deal of harm : for myself, I take it medicinally." 

" We are in sight of Nikamori," reported the first lieu- 
tenant. 

"Will you land this evening?" inquired the commander of 
the Professor. " I fear you will find the accommodation very 



46 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



poor. My advice is, that you stay with me, and disembark 
early to-morrow morning." 

"Very many thanks," said the Professor. "I will follow 
your suggestion." 

When the anchor was let go, the party went forward, and 
gazed at the shore. 







"So that is Nikamori," said Fitz. "Well, it is a rough- 
looking spot, and I do not see any Ainos." 

" Wait a while," said Oto. " Before the week is over we 
shall be pretty well acquainted with the bear-worshippers." 



48 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER III. 

AMONG THE AINOS. 

" Every otte has a certain amount of native conceit, that is oftentimes 
ridiculous in the eyes of strangers. The Yezo-jin say, ' The Ainos will always 
be the pride of the sea and the forest.'' " 

AT daybreak the boys were aroused by the first lieutenant, 
who said, — 

" If you want to witness a strange custom, come on deck: 
the Ainos are welcoming a chief who has been absent from 
his tribe." 

"Can my mother and sister see the ceremony?" inquired 
Johnnie. 

" Certainly," replied their friend. " You had better be 
quick." 

The boys hastily put on their khnoito, and on reaching the 
deck beheld a strange sight. Seven Ainos were dancing and 
shouting on the beach, and were brandishing their swords in 
a very threatening manner. 

"They are full of fight," said Fitz. 

" No, indeed," replied Sallie. " The captain says that is 
their way of saluting a distinguished person. Do you see the 
chief over there in the boat ? " 

The boys glanced in the indicated direction, and beheld 
two native craft, in the nearer of which a grave-looking man 
was seated behind a low screen that rose about a foot above the 
gunwale. The Ainos who accompanied him flourished their 



50 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

weapons, and shouted back as though in defiance ; and the 
rowers paddled with one hand, and gesticulated with the other. 

Instead of landing opposite the ship, the chief ordered his 
people to row him round the point. 

"They are very timid," said the first lieutenant. "I have 
seen a good deal of them, but often found great difficulty in 
inducing them to perform their rites in my presence. The 
farther you get into the interior, the more unsophisticated and 
gentle they are." ; 

The Ainos on the shore danced out of sight, and those in 
the boats rowed as though anxious to hide from the foreigners' 
gaze, 

" I call that a shame," said Sallie. " We would not have 
done them any harm by looking at the ceremony." 

" They have a perfect right to do as they please," said prac- 
tical Johnnie, who was watching some gulls through a telescope. 
" Hallo! what is that on the water?" 

"A sleeping seal," replied the officer. "It will not be 
many moments before you see an Aino put out and capture 
him. That kind of seal is called wuneo. The gulls like to 
swim round it, I suppose on account of the little fishes, that, 
strangely enough, accompany the large one." 

"The seal's eyes are open," remarked Fitz. 

"Yes, but it is fast asleep," said the officer, bringing his 
telescope to bear upon the creature. " True, it moves its tail ; 
but, without doubt, it is not awake." 

"Hallo! here comes a boat," cried Fitz, as a canoe was 
rowed swiftly round the point. " How did they know about 
the fish?" 

" There are a hundred pairs of Aino eyes watching from the 
beach," said the lieutenant. "The Yezo-jin have a strange 



AMONG THE AINOS. 



51 



superstition. During the fishing-season the fishermen drink 
no sake, keep their boats very clean, and worship the sea-god 
and god of vessels by offering them saJze and inaho. When 
they start out to hunt the seal, they row very quietly ; while the 
wife and children at home sit perfectly still, and do not make 
the usual noise when eatino^ in order not to scare the eame." 

" Look at them," said Sallie : " one has laid down his pad- 
dles, and is standing up in the bow, balancing a double-headed 
harpoon with a line attached to it," 




SLEEPING SEAL. 



By that time every one on board was watching the hunters, 
w^ho, quite unconscious of the interest they were exciting, had 
approached to within sixty feet of their prey. 

The harpooner stood quite motionless, leaving his compan- 
ions to manage the craft. Suddenly he Taunched his weapon, 
then grasped the line with both hands. The spear quivered as 
it darted towards the seal, which it struck and awoke. In 
another instant the fish sounded, — i. e., dived to the bottom, — 
and the Aino hauled in the shaft of his harpoon. 

"The barbed points are broken off," said Johnnie. "He 
has lost his prize." 



52 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" Indeed he has not," answered the heutenant. " The bone 
heads are poisoned, and are buried deeply in the body of the 
wimeo. In a few moments the creature, thoroughly paralyzed, 
will float to the surface. They will have a great feast over their 
capture." 

His information proved to be correct, though it was half an 
hour before the fish was secured. 

The Ainos made a tremendous fuss over landing the seal,, 
and welcomed the harpooner with joyful howls. 




SPEARING A SEAL. 



•' I think we had better disembark," said the Professor, " It 
is nearly eight o'clock." 

" You must breakfast first," said Capt. Imadate, who over- 
heard the remark. " Will you please come down to the cabin ? 
every thing is ready." 

About nine o'clock they entered the commander's gig, and 
were rowed to the beach, upon which some Japanese and Ainos, 
who had been out fishing for menhaden, were landing their 
spoils, and were shouting and laughing, like a lot of school- 
boys, as they drew in the net, and deposited it upon mats spread 
on the sand. 



54 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Why, they use handbarrovvs just like our Gloucester fisher- 
men, and hang their nets on racks," remarked Sallie. 

"They know their business," said the Professor. "The 
party appear to have had very good luck. I should calculate 
there are several million of fish in that net. What do you say, 

Fitz?" 

" I have not brought my soro-ban " 
(counting-board), " sir," demurely an- 
swered the boy. *' Never was good 
at guessing numbers." 

His father frowned and said, " Do 
not be frivolous. Estimate the length 
and breadth of the net, the proportion 
of one of the fishes to the average 
height of the mass " — Then he 
suddenly stopped, and regarded an 
Aino, who had approached unob- 
served, and who looked as though 
he had an important communication to make. 

The savage saluted by extending his hands and waving 
them inward ; after which he said, pointing his forefinger at the 
Professor, — 

" Cappin, please — give two shews." 

"Oh! you speak English, do you, my friend?" blandly 
answered the Professor. " I was not aware that you wore 
shoes." 

Fitz chuckled, and whispered, — 

" He does not want shoes, sir. He Is evidently tobacco- 
hunting. Don't you understand? he wants two chews, — one 
for himself and the other for his chief." 

The Aino's nostrils distended, the corners of his mouth 




' PLEASE GIVE TWO SHEWS." 



AMONG THE AINOS. 



55 



curved upwards, and he smiled like the end man of a minstrel 
troupe. 

" Where is our interpreter? " asked the Professor, who was 
most anxious to improve the occasion. " I wish to explain to 
this poor creature the injurious effects of nicotine upon the 
system. The governor of Hakodate promised we should be met 
here by some one who could talk the Aino language." 

Oto spoke to a custom-house officer who was inspecting 
their baggage, and the official replied by shouting to a group 
of females, — 

" Habo-obari, come here ! " 

Upon hearing this, a young woman advanced toward the 
foreigners, and, kneeling upon the sand, bowed respectfully. 

" She can speak Japanese," said the man, " and will ac- 
company you into the interior ; " 
addinor, " Rise, Habo, and an- 
swer questions." 

The woman, who was very 
gentle, sat up on her heels, and 
murmured in Japanese, " I am 
much ashamed. I know so little, ^^ 
but shall be very happy to do ^v ) 
any thing for you." N. 

The young Americans were 
deli ofh ted to be able to talk with 
her : so while the official was 
putting the custom-house mark on their baggage, they plied 
Habo with questions, and soon learned something of her his- 
tory. She said, " I was taught by a Japanese lady in Hakodate, 
and would have remained there until now ; but my parents 
wanted me to marry a chief, so I came home again." 




'OUR INTERPRETER." 



56 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" What is the matter with your mouth ? " said Mrs. Jewett. 

" I have been tattooed," she rephed : " that is the custom 
of our people." 

" How is it done ?" inquired SalHe, regarding her pityingly. 

" My mother scratched the lines round my mouth with a 
knife, and rubbed soot into them : then the marks were washed 
with an infusion of the bark of a tree, which made them blue. 
My hands are ornamented in the same way." 

" Did it not hurt you ? " inquired the young lady. 




TATTOOING ONI AINO WOMAN'S HAND. 



" Not much," she replied, drawing up the sleeve of her 
kimono, and exhibiting her arm : " my decoration is not all 
iinished. Every Aino woman has this adornment." 

" Well," murmured Fitz, speaking in English, and critically 
inspecting the lines, " I should call it a disfigurement." 

Habo took a great liking to Sallie, and, in order to show her 
good-will, offered to tattoo her mouth. 

" No, thank you," answered the young lady. " I am much 
obliged to you, all the same." 

After a while Capt. Imadate, who had been detained on 
board the ship, joined them, and said, — 



AMONG THE AINOS. 57 

" I cannot understand how it is the officials from Kawa- 
nishi are not here to receive you. I will despatch a messeno-er 
to ascertain the cause of their non-appearance." 

While he was speaking, two Japanese officers, dressed in dark 
blue uniforms, rode over the ridge, and approached the visitors. 

After dismounting they saluted, and said, — 

" We are instructed to receive a foreign professor and his 
family, and to conduct them to Kawanishi. Are you the gen- 
tleman ? " 

Professor Jewett answered in the affirmative : then he was 
informed that ponies were on their way for the use of his party, 
and that accommodation had been prepared for them at 
Kawanishi. 

The animals appeared about ten o'clock ; and with them 
came sixty Ainos, some of whom were as hairy as bears. 
These, of course, excited the boys' curiosity ; and they asked a 
hundred questions through Habo, who said, — 

" They never feel the cold, and live to be very aged. Some 
Ainos have only a little hair on their necks, arms, and chests : 
others are covered with it like a garment. We consider such 
a growth to be very beautiful." 

"There is no accounting for taste," said Fitz. "Why," 
nodding at the old fellow who had begged for tobacco, " here 
IS Deacon Andrews. Father never delivered that lecture on the 
injurious effects of nicotine. Ask the gentleman why he waits 
round here." 

The woman spoke to the man, then replied to Fitz, — 
" He says he is from your honorable country. He is a bad 
person." 

" Does he mean to assert that he is an American ? " queried 
the boy. 



58 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" He was taken from Hakodate a long distance across the 
sea," said Habo ; " and he remained away until he was almost 
forgotten. Since his return he has generally been in prison. 
People said that he acquired vicious habits in the foreign 
country. No one knows where he went or how he earned his 
living." 

" I guess he went to New York, and ran for alderman," 
gravely answered Johnnie. " He has a hungry, unsatisfied look. 
Tell him that none of us use tobacco in any form." 

" Come, Sallie, here is your pony," said the Professor : 
" you will have to hold on, for there is no side-saddle. Fitz, 
you take the black one ; and Johnnie the piebald, next to him." 

They said sdioiiara (farewell) to the captain, then, mounting 
their steeds, rode up the sand-ridge, and found themselves in 
a swampy tract, entirely destitute of roads, which necessitated 
the party's proceeding in Indian file. 

The officers from Kawanishi acted as their guides ; and the 
Ainos led the ponies, and kept them at a trot. 

Towards evening they forded a river, and began to ascend 
the mountains. 

At sunset they reached a government establishment where 
their servants were enabled to prepare supper in American 
fashion. 

"There are lots of Ainos in this place," remarked Oto. 
"The officers from Kawanishi have gone to see the chief of 
the tribe who inhabit this district. If you like, we will drop in 
upon them later in the evening." 

" Certainly," said the Professor. " Hark to the sound of 
that musical instrument ! I believe the natives are giving a 
concert." 

When supper was over, Professor Jewett, Fitz, Johnnie, and 



AMONG THE AINOS. 



59 



Oto quitted the house, leaving Mrs. Jewett and Sallie to talk 
with Habo. 

" Yonder are the officers," said Johnnie, pointing to an Aino 
hut. " Let us look in at the window, and watch them." 

"That would offend the Yezo-jin," said Oto. "They never 
do such a thing, or throw refuse out of a window. You must 
respect their superstitions." 

" Please come in," said one of the officers. "This chief is 
very anxious to entertain you," 




The party entered, and beheld eight Ainos, seated on new 
mats that had been spread upon the ground in honor of their 
guests, who, in the absence of chairs, had been accommodated 
with blocks of wood. 

Five lacquer boxes, containing food, were placed upon the 
floor ; and a woman, whose head was tied with a white fillet, 
was pouring out sake from a long-handled nagaye (ladle). 

The chief requested the Americans to join his guests, so 
the Professor said, — 

" Let us seat ourselves on this heap of mats, and watch the 



6o 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



proceedings. I suppose this is what the natives consider an 
aristocratic gathering." 

When they were accommodated, and the lacquer cups had 
been filled with sake, the Ainos raised their vessels, which they 
waved towards them three times, then took their carved sake- 
sticks, dipped them in the wine, and made formal libations to 
the iiiaJio. They lifted their mustaches with the sticks, so as 




AINOS ENTERTAINING JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 



not to saturate them with the sake, and drained the cups with 
a sucking noise, considered by them to be the height of polite- 
ness. The Ainos did not content themselves with a single cup, 
but drank a great number in rapid succession. 

In vain the Japanese officials endeavored to keep up with 
their entertainers ; for^ though intellectually by far their supe- 
riors, they lacked the muscular vigor and strong heads of the 
savages, and were soon compelled to set down their cups un- 
tasted. 



AMONG THE AINOS. 



6i 



The chief made his graceful salutation, then said, — 

" My old grandfather will sing, and play on the ka!' 

A woman then entered, carrying a musical instrument about 
four feet in length, which was passed round for the inspection 
of the foreigners. It had five strings, made from the fibre of 
a plant called mosha- 
kina, and a bridge of 
whale-tooth ivory. 

" It looks as though 
it had been whittled out 
with a jack-knife," said 
Fitz. " I suppose they 
think it a wonderful 
piece of workmanship. 
It is heavy enough for 
a war-club." 

"The decoration is 
severely simple," re- 
marked his father. 
" These archaic forms 
are most interesting. 
Evidently the ka is of 
very ancient origin, all 
pictures of primitive musical instruments being long and narrow. 
I wonder whether the chief would sell this." 

Upon his speech being Interpreted to their host, the latter 
replied, — 

"It is the property of my grandfather : he would not part 
with it for any money. Here he comes." 

As he spoke an old Aino entered the hut, saluted every one 
gracefully, and, after he had been served with sake, took the ka, 




MOSHA-KINA. 



62 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



\M <- 




and began to play a weird air in a minor key. 
At intervals he would open his mouth, and utter 
a curious noise which began like the howling 
of a dog, and ended with a sharp barking note. 

" We had a puppy that used to sing like 
that," said the mirth-loving Fitz. " He always 
performed when Sallie practised on the piano." 

Oto smiled, 
and replied in 
Japanese, — 

" These Ai- 
nos are remark- 
ably like dogs." 

" Dogs are 
very good creatures, after all," said Johnnie ; 
adding, "Upon what are we sitting?" 

Oto lifted the mat, and found that they had 
been resting upon the body of the seal they 
had seen caught by the Ainos. The fish had 
been dressed, and prepared for transport by se- 
curing its fins to its tail, so as to form a loop 
through which a pole could be passed to 
carry it. 

The chief explained that the wuneo was in 
his charge to forward into the interior. 

" Oh ! he runs an express-office," said Fitz. 
" I hope we have not damaged the package." 

When this was translated to the Aino, he 
replied, — 

" My storehouse was burned down yester- 
day ; and I was afraid the rats would get at the 



AMONG THE AINOS. 



63 



seal, so I brought it indoors. I think it is very probable you 
will eat some of the delicious flesh, as it is going to the chief at 
Kawanishi." 




SEAL PREPARED FOR TRANSPORTATION. 



" Not If I know myself," murmured Fitz, " I shall have to 
be very hungry before I partake of it." 

" Come, boys," said the Professor, " it is time we returned 
to our hotel. Your mother and sister will be anxious about us." 

The Ainos rose, and 
conducted their guests 
to the door ; and, as the 
foreigners took their 
leave, the savages made 
their graceful salutation, 
and cried, — 

" Saramba ! Saram- 
ba ! " (good-by). 

"What is that light flashing to the northward?" inquired 
Johnnie. 

" It is from a burning mountain," answered Oto. " Yezo is 




AINO STOREHOUSE, 



64 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

famous for its volcanoes. You will see several active ones 
during your journey." 

They found Mrs. Jewett and Sallie fast asleep, and Habo 
watching them like a faithful animal. 



KA WANJSHI. 65 



CHAPTER IV. 

KAWANISHI. 

" Co7ifucius said, 'Within the four seas, all ineii are brothers j ' noiwithstandi7i(r 
which, one does not care to acknowledge the Aino as a j-elative" 

THE travellers rose very early, and started amid the saluta- 
tions and murmured " saraviba " of the Ainos. 

"There is the wuneo we are to have for dinner to-day," said 
Johnnie, pointing to the seal, that, slung on a pole, was carried 
by two sturdy savages. " Come along, Sallie : I will race you 
for a dollar." 

"Np, thank you," replied his sister. "The road Is not wide 
enough for that sort of amusement." 

As the party progressed, they became soaked through with 
the drippings from the trees, and the tall bamboo grass that 
overhung the path. On either side the forest was a wall of 
herbage, knitted together with enormous trailing plants, inter- 
spersed with gigantic beckonosJiita (dock), some of the stems of 
which were eight feet high, and had leaves two yards in di- 
ameter. 

In one spot was a clearing in which stood an Aino man and 
two women, one of the latter bashfully hiding herself beneath 
a leaf that covered her like an extinguisher. 

" This plant is called the nadosmia Japonica'' said Pro- 
fessor Jewett, reining in his pony ; " and 1 should think it is the 
largest of Its species." 

"Please go on, husband," said his wife. "The soakage 



66 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



from the trees has chilled me. I shall be glad when we arrive 
at our destination." 

" I do not call this a road," grumbled Johnnie. 




BECKONOSHITA (GIGANTIC DOCK). 



" No, it is a dog's track in a howling wilderness," cried the 
merry Fitz. " I have all sorts of insects in my clothes ; and 



KAWANISHI. 07 

some of them nip, I tell you. One cannot expect macadamized 
roads and Pullman cars in Yezo," 

"That is true," cheerfully responded Sallie. "Remember, 
we promised papa, that, come what might, we would not 
ofrumble." 

They halted at a place called Holaiku-kotan, a mere collec- 
tion of huts in a clearing, where they were welcomed by a 
venerable savage, who was said to be a hundred years old. 
As no one seemed to know his name, the boys addressed him 
as " Uncle Remus," which appeared to do just as well as any 
other. 

" How he chuckles ! " said Fitz. " One would think he 
understood all we said, I wonder whether he ever took a 
bath." 

Habo was summoned ; and soon the patriarch showed, that, 
though the frosts of many winters had whitened his hair, his 
intelligence, what there was of it, was unimpaired. He said 
that he v\fas very poor, and would have no objection to taste a 
little sake. In the absence of wine, Fitz mixed him a draught 
of Jamaica-ginger and water ; which the old boy pronounced 
pirika (good), and in return offered the young Americans some 
liquor made from the root of a tree. Upon their declining his 
gift, he drained the contents of the bowl, wiped his mouth with 
the back of his hand, and remarked, — 

" It is all the same : I have drunk for you, and you will get 
the benefit." 

By this he meant that the gods would accept it as an 
offering. 

When they parted from him, he chuckled worse than ever, 
and, leaning on his staff and against the door of his hut, 
watched them until they were out of sight. 



68 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



The sun had dried the undergrowth, and rendered the 
atmosphere as hot and moist as that of a forcing-house for 
plants: travelhng was therefore fatiguing, and the Americans, 
were heartily glad when they arrived at Kawanishi, where they 
found quite a settlement of Japanese and Ainos. 




uncle remus, 
[from photograph loaned by prof, munroe.] 

They were welcomed by the assistant governor of the Ken, 
who proved to be an old friend of Oto's. 

After enjoying the luxury of a warm bath, they dined, then 
accompanied their host into the kitchen, where they found Aino 
servants preparing food for the various officials of the estab- 
lishment. 

"You see," said their host, "we have trained the natives to 



KA WANISHI. 



69 



cook in Japanese style, and they are really quite expert at it. 
That big iron pot is suspended over the fire in Aino fashion, 
otherwise every thing is Japanese. Yonder is the chief cook, 
who is handing a bowl of rice to my interpreter. The man 
behind him is stirring grated fish and bean-flour into a paste, 
and the woman at the back is washing the roe of a koi in a 




JAPANESE KITCHEN AT KAWANISHI 



sieve. The women on the left are sorting rice, which that hairy 
Amo is hulling. He is what we term in Japan a kome-tsuki, and 
is a very powerful fellow. Another servant has just taken some 
dried salmon from a bale of the fish. He will cut it into shreds, 
and serve it to the servants with their rice. You observe that 
Aino in the back kitchen : he is feeding the furnace under a 
boiler in which we steam cakes. That dog is a very good one 
to keep watch : he never allows any strange Aino to enter the 



70 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

premises. All our servants have adopted the Japanese custom 
of taking hot baths, and are very faithful and honest." 

The officer evidently liked the natives, and was well posted 
with regard to their manners and customs. He conducted his 
guests into the reception-room, where they saw several pictures 
depicting scenes of Aino life. 

"This," he said, indicating a painting representing a daimio 
(great lord) entertaining four Yezo-jin, " represents a very 
curious incident. The Ainos had been somewhat unruly, and 
had not paid tribute to the lord of Matsumai. Instead of 
punishing them, he inquired what kind of food they liked best ; 
and was informed that they greatly esteemed a sort of cake 
made of sea-weed, venison, ground millet, and dried koi cooked 
in whale-oil." 

"Sort of Yezo fish-ball," suggested Fitz. 

"Yes," answered their host. "The daimio told his chief 
counsellor to have a number of these prepared, and to summon 
the disaffected chiefs. Matsumai received them seated behind 
a curtain bearing his crest, three diamonds forming a lozenge. 
When the zen (trays) were brought in, the chief counsellor 
said, — 

" ' Your lord bids you eat with him.' 

" Upon the Ainos discovering that the noble condescended 
to partake of their favorite dish, they stroked their beards, and 
exclaimed, — 

" ' Pirika ! ' (good), ' great is the condescension of our lord : 
after this we consider ourselves like the sand beneath his feet.' " 

"Well, it is an interesting picture," said Fitz ; "and the old 
Ainos appear to be tickled to death. But the daimio does not 
seem to relish the mess : he looks like one of our ward poli- 
ticians at a cheap dinner given to his followers." 



72 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"What does this second picture represent?" Inquired Sallie. 
"Are not those ships meant for foreign men-of-war?" 

"The hull of the nearest one appears to be built of bricks," 
said Fitz. 

"That is an historical scene," answered the officer. " Dur- 
ing the Japanese period of Kwan-sei (A. D. 1789), some 
Russian ships appeared off this Island, and caused great con- 
sternation among the natives, who feared they were about to be 
seized, and carried into slavery. When the foreigners landed, 
the Ainos attacked them with bows and arrows ; whereupon 
the Russians retreated to their vessels, and have never re- 
turned. They were evidently afraid of the Yezo-jin." 

" I do not believe it was that," said Johnnie. " I believe the 
Ainos mistook a party landing In search of water, for invaders ; 
and that there is more fighting in this picture than there was in 
reality." 

" What Is this third scene ? " asked Sallie. 

" That depicts the annual distribution of allowances to the 
Yezo-jin In the olden time. The Ainos then belonged to the 
daimios of their provinces, and half of the bear and other 
skins they procured in hunting were paid as tribute to their 
lords. In return for this, they received protection, and once a 
year were given allowances of rice, tobacco, and sake, which 
^vere regulated according to the offerings made by each chief. 
On the appointed day they had audience with the represent- 
ative of their daimio, who was accompanied by six witnesses 
from the Shogun's government, two interpreters, and a num- 
ber of retainers of the lord of Matsumai, who saw that each 
chief received his allowance. 

"The official seated himself on a mat Inside the house, his 
secretary knelt upon his left, the witnesses ranged themselves 



74 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



against the wall, and the interpreters took up their positions on 
the boarded space in front of the edifice. Then the Ainos ad- 
vanced, and knelt upon mats they had brought with them ; the 
four principal chiefs being in the front row, and the others 
according to their rank." 

"Those are the head chiefs in the decorative-art kimono, 
are they not ? " said Sallie. 




DISTRIBUTING ALLOWANCES TO AINOS. 



The officer smiled, and continued, — 

" After the Ainos had saluted, the secretary took a docu- 
ment from a sambo upon his right, and proceeded to read the 
list of awards in this manner : — 

" ' Ipocash-ku, two hundred skins; two bales of rice, one tub 
of sake, and two bundles of tobacco. 

" ' Kanta-chip, one hundred and fifty skins; one bale of rice, 
one tub of sake, and one bundle of tobacco.' 



KA WANISHI. 



75 



" Each announcement was translated to the Ainos, who 
saluted and howled by way of approval. 

"When the ceremony was over, they retired to their homes, 
and, seating themselves upon new mats, drank to the gods and 
their lord ; generally finishing up with a tai-fu-kari, or bird- 
dance. Here," producing a book, " is a representation of the 
ceremony." 




TAI-FU-KARI DANCE. 



"There are four ladies engaged in the amusement," re- 
marked Johnnie. " Do they indulge in sake f 

"Yes," said their host. "The Aino women drink as much 
as the men. They serve the wine, and always secure their 
share." 

" Please tell us about the dance," said Sallie, who was 
anxious to learn the manners and customs of the Yezo-jin. 

" The vessel filled with .y^;/'^ is placed on a clean mat, two 
cups on rests and sticks being set before it. Then the Ainos 



76 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

squat round and drink until they feel in the humor to dance, 
when they rise, clap their hands, and begin to sing, — 

' I am a bird, and can fly 
Over the river and fire : 
I am a god.' 

"They caper round and round, flap their arms as a crow 
does its wings, and imitate the birds ; until, overcome by the 
violent exercise and the sake, they fall down and go to sleep." 

" How degraded they are ! " said Sallie. " I think they 
ought to be taught better." 

" I reckon a good many of our people are very much like 
them," said Fitz. "Their dances appear to be harmless." 

" Yes," said Oto : " they are not, like some foreigners, in the 
habit of shooting one another by way of a climax to their 
amusement." 

That evening they went to see Habo's father, whom they 
found busily engaged whittling out inaho (god-sticks). He 
was cro,uchIng by the side of his hut, against which rested his 
bows ; and he had a sword, and a box of arrow-poison, on the 
ground near him. 

Habo saluted him respectfully ; but he did not condescend 
to reply, or to take any notice of his American visitors. 

" He does not seem well to-day," she whispered. " He Is 
very old, and has pains in his bones which spoil his temper. 
When he feels very badly, he makes inaho, which occupation 
generally cures him. The bear-skin he wears came from a 
hokuyak he killed two winters ago." 

" I suppose he is too sick even to drink sake?'' mischiev- 
ously remarked Fitz. 

The old fellow's eyes twinkled ; and> guessing what was said,, 
he ceased his occupation, and saluted his visitors, saying, — ■ 



KA WANISHI. 



77 



" I always feel better after I have emptied a cup." 

Habo went to a neighboring house, and returned with a 
bowl of the coveted liquid, which her father absorbed without 
so much as winking. 

Poor Habo meekly received the cup, and turning to Mrs. 
Jewett, gently remarked, — 

" As men q-tovj old, their bodies become like dried wood, 
and they require liquid nourishment. A few years ago my 
father was a great 







chief: now he has re- 
tired, and only thinks 
of making inahoy 

" I think he need 
not be so grumpy," 
said Fitz in English. 
" My opinion is, his 
daughter is too kind 
to him." 

The old man's red 
eyes flashed, though 
he did not understand 
the words : then he 
once more doubled himself up, grasped his knife, and resumed 
his whittling- 

" What a sad spectacle ! " mused the Professor. " And that 
is a man ! " 

" No, sir," said Oto : " he is the missing link between man 
and the monkey. I have, in other countries beside Yezo, seen 
creatures that resembled him." 

Habo next introduced her friends to her mother, who was, if 
possible, more weird-looking than the old chief. She was busily 



^^^tZif^ 



HABO'S FATHER. 



78 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



employed pounding millet in a wooden mortar, and, consid- 
ering her fragile appearance, performed her task with con- 
siderable vim. She listened to her daughter in grim silence, 
then continued her occupation without condescending to 
reply. 

" Mother is very busy," said Habo. " If she does not have 
the food ready at the proper time, father will feel sad." 

" She means get mad," said Fitz in English. " You may 

depend upon it, that old 
savage has made his wife's 
existence a burden to 
her." On their return to 
the assistant governor's 
house they were met by 
their host, who said, — 

"The chief has de- 
termined to perform ,the 
ceremony of oukari. 
Would you like to wit- 
ness it ? " 

" By all means," answered the Professor. " Can the ladies 
be present ? " 

Their friend thought not ; remarking, — 
*' It is really a trial of endurance, and sometimes the Ainos 
have been known to die under it. It is similar to the oukari, 
their most severe form of punishment, combined with a spas- 
modic generosity that causes the entertainer to give away his 
treasures in a most foolish manner. The chief, whom you met 
last night, has invited you to be his guests : so you must not 
be offended if he gives you presents." 

After dinner the Professor and his sons accompanied 




WOODEN PESTLE AND MORTAR. 



KA WANISHL 79 

Oto and the official to the spot set apart for the ceremony, 
— a rough piece of pasture-land on the bank of a river. 

They were received very politely, and, having taken their 
places on some bales of fish covered with mats, were offered 
sake in the usual manner. 

Habo, who was present, acted as interpreter ; and through 
her the chief said, — 

" Oiikari is a very ancient custom, and is intended to try 
the courage of our people. I shall give a reward to all who 
can bear the punishment like men ; " then, addressing his 
wife, he added, " Bring in the club." 

The woman went to a nei^hborino- hut, throuoh the window 
of which a weapon was passed with great ceremony. It was 
of hard wood, about forty-five inches long, and in shape very 
much like what we term an Indian club. 

She carried it very respectfully, and handed it to a bearded 
Aino ; who, before receiving it, spat on his hands like a boy 
about to use a base-ball bat. At this stage of the proceedings, 
a muscular Yezo-jin, who wore across his shoulders a mat made 
of sealskins, joined the party, and, solemnly saluting the chief, 
took up his place before him. 

The women arranged the mat so that it completely pro- 
tected the wearer from the waist to the nape of the neck ; 
he holding the ends of the covering in his outstretched 
hands. 

Fitz's eyes twinkled ; and he whispered to his father, — 

" This is going to be a lark." 

" You mean that the rite will prove interesting," said his 
parent. " I do not quite understand the use of that mass of 
sealskin." 

" Guess it is for the same purpose as 1 used to wear a 



8o 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



book under my jacket when I expected trouble at school," said 
Fitz. " These Ainos act very much Hke children." 

Two men then seated themselves as umpires for the club- 
bearer, and the same number stood up and acted as friends 
of the gentleman in the sealskin sack. 

" Now the ceremony is going to begin," said Habo. * 

Sake was served ; after which the man with the mat braced 
himself, and the one with the club swung it like a professional 




gymnast, and brought it to bear with terrific force upon the 
sealskins. 

" S/ine " (one), piped an old Aino, whose duty it was to 
count the blows. He was very much bent, and what hair 
remained seemed to be slipping off the back of his head. 

" Tu'' (two), "7'^" (three), '' ine'' (four), "• asne'' (five), 
'' iwambe" (six), '' aruwanibe'" (seven), '^ tupesambe'' (eight), 
'' shnepes7iabe'' [mne), '' wambi'' (ten). As each number was 
called, the club descended, whack ! and the man holding the 
mat staggered beneath the^blows. 

When hots (twenty) was called, the Ainos stopped the cere- 



KA WANISHI. 8 1 

mony, and refreshed themselves with sake; after which the 
amusement proceeded. 

" I should think the blows would injure the spine," re- 
marked the Professor. " How many can they bear, Habo ? " 

"Sometimes asne-hots'' (one hundred), she replied: " how- 
*ever, that is only in the case of a very strong man. This one 
will not take more than wainbi-i-tuhots " (fifty). 

The amusement was suddenly interrupted by an accident 
that threatened to terminate fatally. The club-swinger was 
raising his weapon in order to deal the thirty-seventh blow, 
when a hornet stung him on the wrist and caused him to deliver 
a foul ; the weapon slanting upwards, and striking his victim a 
tremendous blow on the back of the skull. 

At first the spectators thought he was dead ; but Oto ex- 
amined him, and said, — 

" If you keep him quiet, he will come round after a while. 
Any one but a Yezo-jin would have been killed' by such a 
blow." When the chief learned the doctor's decision, he 
said, — 

" Hokutakane shall have two fishes, and two bales of goods. 
He has shown that he can take punishment like an Aino." 

More sake was served, and another Aino was soon found to 
shoulder the sealskin pad. 

The second man succumbed at the twentieth stroke ; and 
the third cried, " Hold ! " before he had received the fifth, 
Habo explaining that he was not very well. 

" I should not think he would feel so now," said Johnnie. 
" I tell you, one blow from that weapon would disarrange my 
anatomical system." 

About twenty men had their powers of endurance tested, 
and received presents varying from a dried salmon to two bales 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



^''^{C^//////////////j///if!'i!i!A 



of eoods. When the last stroke was delivered, the chief arose 
a poor man ; and his friends had more or less sore backs, and 
proportionate proofs of his generosity. 

Although the foreigners did not submit to the ordeal, they 
each received presents ; the Professor's share being an antique 
Owari jar, decorated under the glaze with curious crossed lines 
in pipe-clay. It had been used for storing 
sake, and bore marks of having been set 
upon the fire. 

" It will please Sallie," said Fitz. " She 
likes old crockery of this description. When 
she sees it she will say, ' It is too sweet for 
any thing.' " 

The oukari wound up with a grand 
taifu-kari, in which all the contestants 
danced ; even the man who had been 
rendered senseless having recovered sufficiently to take part 
in the final exercise. 

The performers waved their arms, cawed like crows, shouted, 
hopped first on one leg and then on the other, and barked like 
dogs ; even the children capering in the same fashion. Then 
a big mess of food was brought in a lacquered box bearing a 
tomoye (luck-mark), three inaho were driven in the ground, and 
the chief's wives ladled out this strange-looking mass. 

" Come," said the Professor, " let us retire : to-morrow we 
shall start for the wilds of Yezo." 



' nmuiiiumin/iM^ 

OWARI JAR. 



84 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER V. 

IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 

" The Japanese say, ' Travelling is an inch of purgatory? The Ainos have 
an adage which translates thus : '•At hojne yoic can be happy ; bnt ivhen you go 
upon a jojcrney, you enjoy four periods of misery to one of pleasure.''''' 

COME, young folks," said the Professor, " make your toi- 
lets. It is a long journey between here and Hokuyak- 
bets ; and you will have to walk, or be carried by the Ainos. 
?Iabo says the horses cannot climb the mountain passes." 

Fitz rubbed his eyes, and drowsily replied, — 

" I never knew any good result from rising early. It dis- 
arranges a poor little fellow for the entire day. Why not start 
at ten o'clock, and take it easy ? " 

" Oh, you lazy boy ! " said Sallie. " I have been up an 
hour. Habo tells me we are going through some very delight- 
ful scenery, and that it is worth a great deal to see the sun rise 
over the mountains. Don't keep us waiting : I have made 
some delicious coffee for you." 

" That will be an inducement," said her sleepy brother. 
" Count me in for two cups, Sallie. I won't keep you a minute. 
What time is it ? " 

" Just half-past three," she replied. 

As Fitz donned his clothes, he grumbled, — 

" I do not see much use going to bed when one has to get 
up at this unearthly hour. Well, I suppose it is an Aino 
custom." 



94 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" That settles It," said FItz ; adding, with a significant ges- 
ture to the woman, " Suppose he has no child ?" 

Habo thought a while, then replied, — 

" He will adopt one : it would be just the same, according to 
Aino ideas." 

While they were talking, the young merchant had been 
making a sketch, which he handed to Sallie, saying, — 

" Please accept this little picture to remind you of the story 
related by your interpreter. My father has a very fine painting 
representing the scene. He was one of the retainers of the 
lord of Matsumai." 

Sallie thanked him, and the party resumed their journey. 

That night they slept in an old hon-jin ; i.e., a house for- 
merly used by the daimios and their trains. 

It was in a very dilapidated state, and,, though long since 
abandoned by man, was well tenanted with very lively insects. 

"What species do you call these, papa?" said Fitz, as he 
rose and met his father, who had been fairly driven into the 
open air. 

"The pulex horridus',' savagely returned the Professor. 
" They are the most insatiate creatures I have ever encoun- 
tered. Travelling among the Ainos is not unalloyed pleasure." 

" Particularly when you have to rise soon after retiring, in 
order to accommodate the permanent boarders," was the merry 
response. " I believe they look upon Johnnie as a public bene- 
factor, or he must have taken a sleeping draught." 

" Not a bit of it," wearily ejaculated his brother, emerging 
slowly from the house. " I have lost pounds of flesh. I do 
not think they have left any thing of mother and Sallie." 

While they were chatting, Habo came from an adjoining 
building, and on seeing them inquired what was the matter. 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 95 

Upon being informed, she expressed great astonishment, and 
naively remarked, — 

" No Aino minds those Httle taiki. We should feel lonely 
without them." 

" They are sociable enough," growled Johnnie. " If you 
like them so much, why are you not enjoying their society ? " 

The woman simpered, then replied, — 

"There is to be a machi-koro" (wedding) '^' at midnight. 
The son of the Aino who looks after this hon-jin is to be 
married to a very pretty girl named Kisara." 

" Can we witness the ceremony ? " asked the Professor. 

At first Habo looked serious : however, she finally said, — 

" I think they will not mind, because you are very gentle, 
and do not laugh at our customs. I will go and ask if they will 
object to your presence." 

She re-entered the building, and, after remaining absent 
a while, returned, saluted, and said, — 

" The father of the boy says you are welcome to see his son 
married, but fears you will feel very much amused at the cere- 
mony. We are an ignorant people, and this man is very poor. 
Please follow me, and kindly avoid speaking." 

She led the way ; and the Americans presently found them- 
selves in an octagonal room, built in Japanese fashion, and 
floored with reed mats. This had formerly been a reception -hall, 
but was now used by the Aino janitor and his family. 

In the centre was a fireplace, a frame of wood filled with 
ashes, on which were a pile of chips and some sticks of res- 
inous pine. The usual kettle hung over the pile ; and a lamp^ 
formed of a large shell rested on a little post at one corner 
of the fireplace, which was decorated with three inaho (god- 
sticks). 



96 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The bridegroom's father saluted his foreign guests, and said 
he was very much honored by their presence. 

" This is to be a dark seance',' said the fun-loving Fitz. 

" Hush, hush ! " cautioned his father. " Seat yourself here, 
and keep quiet. I consider it a very great privilege to be 
present on such an interesting occasion." 

There was a glimmer of light among the kindling on the 
hearth; and they could just discern the outlines of their host 
and his son, who seated themselves on the left of the frame. 

Habo crouched near the Americans, and, in a low voice, 
explained what was being done. 

" Only the family and certain friends are present," she said, 
" The middle-man, who has arranged the marriage, will bring in 
the bride, who is supposed to be invisible." 

" I should think she is," said Fitz. " I do not believe a cat 
could see its kitten by this light." 

After a brief interval they heard a rustling noise, and then 
dimly beheld a bearded Aino, followed by a dark figure, who, as 
she entered the apartment, knelt behind her conductor. The 
latter bowed, and, saluting; the father of the bridegroom, said, — 

" Is your son lonely?" 

" Yes," replied the old man. " He is very lonely indeed." 

No more was said, the bridegroom remaining perfectly mo- 
tionless, while the go-between retired ; leaving the girl, wdio 
approached the fireplace, and taking a resinous chip pushed it 
into the embers. 

Presently the flame blazed up, and revealed her face, which 
was really a pretty one. 

She lighted the lamp, then bowed, and remained with her 
face hidden from view. 

The bridegroom rose, and, approaching his bride, led her 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 



97 



to his father. Then the pair bowed, the young wife stirred 
up the fire, and the family welcomed her with murmurs of 
approbation. 

" That is all," said Habo. " Now everybody leaves, and 
goes to the young folks' house to drink sake!' 

The foreigfn visitors took the hint, and retired. 




MACHIKORO (AINO MARRIAGE). 



" Yours is a very simple ceremony, Habo," remarked the 
Professor, seating himself in the veranda of the hon-jin. " How 
old are the bride and groom ? " 

" The man is twenty-two, and the girl eighteen," she an- 
swered. 

" Did he select her himself?" inquired Johnnie. 

" Oh, yes ! " replied Habo. " He has seen her many times, 
and noticed that she could cook, split bark, cut wood, and do 



98 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

hard work : so he made up his mind to marry her. Then he 
went to the Japanese authorities and to his chief, and asked 
permission to have the girl. When this was granted, he sought 
out a friend of his family to act as go-between, and sent her 
father a sword, lacquer cup, or curio, the acceptance of which 
settled the matter." 

" Why did the go-between bring the bride in in the dark?" 
inquired Fitz. 

" No one is supposed to know who she is," answered Habo. 
" Women, being descendants of the goddess who founded our 
race, are considered to be light-makers for the house, and to 
render it bright and cheerful. Now will you come to their 
home, and drink sake f " 

" Please excuse us," said the Professor. " It does not agree 
with me, and my sons never touch it. — Boys, what do you say ? 
shall we try once more to woo the drowsy god ? " 

" I cannot keep my eyes open any longer," said Fitz, " and 
shall have to again brave the terrors of those old mats." 

About eight o'clock the next morning they were awakened 
by a commotion in the establishment, and, upon inquiring the 
cause, were informed that the chief Setta-eye had arrived from 
Hokuyak-bets to conduct them to his village. 

" He is a very great man," said Habo ; " and his wife is 
exceedingly beautiful." 

" We ought to receive him with some sort of ceremony," 
said the Professor. " Come, my sons, brush up a bit, and I will 
tell your mother and sister of the honor awaiting us." 

Just then Oto, who looked as though he had rested well, 
joined them, and remarked, — 

" I slept like a top. You boys look as though you had 
been up all night." 



JN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 99 

" You must be iron-clad," said Johnnie. " I do not believe 
any of us has slept a wink." 

" Why, what troubled you ? " inquired the doctor. 

" I had about a million of them all at once," grumbled Fitz. 

" Why did you not bring some insect-powder?" demanded 
their friend. " I thought you had laid in a stock. Well, I have 
enouo'h for us all." 

" I am thankful for that," ejaculated Mrs. Jewett. " I won- 
der we could have been so foolish as to forcret ours. Poor Sallie 
is in a high state of fever." 

"Wife," said the Professor, " Chief Setta-eye is anxious to 
have an interview with us. I do not wish to keep him waiting." 

" He will have to wait until I make myself presentable," 
said the lady. " I want some water and a bowl." 

Habo, who had listened attentively, hurried off, and soon 
returned with a lacquer cup holding about a quarter of a pint. 

" I cannot wash in that," said Mrs. Jewett. "What do your 
people use ? " 

"Nothing," was the naive reply. "An Aino never puts 
water on his skin : it makes him sick." 

" What ! You never take baths ? " 

" Never," was the calm response. 

" That settles it, mother," said Johnnie. " We shall have to 
buy a sake-iuh, and carry it along with us, or dry-polish our- 
selves as the Ainos do." 

After some delay the travellers accomplished their toilets, 
and Haba was informed that they would see their visitor. 

In a few moments Setta-eye entered, and proved to be the 
finest Aino they had yet seen. 

He extended his arms, waved his hands inward three times, 
then, stroking his superb beard, said in a dignified manner, — 



lOO THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" I have come to welcome you to my country." 

He wore on his head a sha-hobi (a sort of crown), made of 




CHIEF SETTA-EYE. 



the fine bark of the tree from which they obtain the fibre for 
their clothing ; and suspended from his side was a Japanese 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 



lOI 



sword, handsomely mounted with gold. His dress was of bark 
cloth, trimmed with blue and white cotton : he carried an un- 
strung bow in his hand, and had large metal rings in his ears. 

"What a magnificent savage!" murmured the Professor. 

" Look at his powerful physique, and see how hairy he is." 

"Yes," answered Oto, " he is a good specimen of the Aino." 

Setta-eye waited until they had ceased speaking, then said, 

in a gentle, musical tone, that contrasted strangely with his 

savage appearance, — 




" I have been informed of your coming, and, knowing the 
road between here and Hokuyak-bets is dangerous, have brought 
my own people to guard you. Will you trust yourself to my 
poor care ? " 

"A thousand thanks," said the Professor, "We are indeed 
obliged for your thoughtfulness." 

The chief then introduced his wife, who was dressed in a 
bark robe trimmed with blue cloth, confined at the waist by a 
narrow girdle. Her earrings were of silver, adorned with strips 
of red cotton tape ; and she wore a shitoki (necklace of silver 



I02 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



and stone beads) , to which was suspended an ornamental ring 
of old-gold lacquer, decorated with a bamboo pattern. Her 




SETTAEYE'S WIFE. 



finger-nails were long and pointed, the tattooing about her 
mouth and between her eyebrows was very fine and close, and 
she carried a shuttle in her hand. 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 103 

The shitoki is only worn by the wives of Aino chiefs, and is 
considered the most honorable distinction bestowed upon a 
woman. 

Mrs. Jewett and Sallie, who looked red-eyed and sleepy, 
shook hands with the chief's wife, and asked her many ques- 
tions about the road she had travelled. Her replies were made 
in a low, sweet voice ; and, although she had never before seen 
foreigners, she bore herself with the greatest ease and dignity. 

Setta-eye informed the Professor that he had prepared a 
habitation for him at Hokuyak-bets, and that he hoped he 
would remain some time his guest ; adding, — 

" I encountered several bears on my way hither : if you 
have any weapons with you, you had better put them in order." 

" We have rifles," replied the Professor. " Hereto we have 
not met with any game, so I have forbidden my sons to carry 
arms. Now we will be prepared." 

" 'Rah ! " cried Fitz. " This is worth coming for. Now 
won't we have some fun ! If I come within range of a bear, I'll 
make him bite the dust." 



I04 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER VI. 

AN AINO HOME. 

''^ An exile from home, splendor dazzles in vain f 
Oh, give me jny lowly thatched cottage again / " 

J. Howard Payne. 

'■'■ My heart sijiks within 7ne when I no longer see my beloved home.'" — AiNO 
Song. 

NO civilized being is more devotedly attached to his home 
than is the savage Aino, who, unlike other primitive 
people, is not a nomad, and who can scarcely be induced to 
quit his native place. 

It was really touching to witness the joy of Setta-eye and his 
wife when they once more beheld their hut. 

"There is the hokuyak'' cried the woman, pointing to a 
bear, confined in a wooden cage. " See, he is sitting up to 
welcome us." 

" Look at those geese," cried Johnnie. " May I have a shot 
at them, father ? " 

Setta-eye understood the question, and motioned the boy 
to level his weapon. Johnnie did so, and succeeded in killing 
two of the birds, which fell among the brushwood, and were 
presently brought in by some Aino children. 

The chief's house was a large structure, covered and 
thatched with fine reeds, which were secured by slats tied to 
the frame-work. The entrance was through a low archway, on 
the floor of which was laid a new mat in honor of the visitors. 



I06 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO, 

A rude fence of branches and stakes protected two sides of 
the edifice, and gave the place a very rustic look. 

The chief, who was evidently respected by the people, in- 
vited his guests into his house, and assigned them places of 
honor on the benches occupying the left corner of the apart- 
ment. 

When they had seated themselves he offered them sake and 
water ; then retired, leaving them to rest, while he went to see 
if every thing was in order in the structure he had built for 
their accommodation. 

"This is quite a nice place," said Johnnie. "They don't 
have much furniture, do they ? I wonder what is in those bags 
up there." 

" Those are skins of seals, sewn together, to contain the 
fish-oil used for light and cooking," said Habo. " This chief 
must be very wealthy to have so much oil in his house." She 
then told them the names of the various objects, saying, — 

" We call the hearth isumbe. The fire-gods are habaye-kamoi, 
not inaho. That shell on a stick, used as a lamp, is the nochi- 
beck ; the pot hanging from the roof is a sho. The quiver for 
arrows is called ika. The long sword is tmiephu, and the short 
emoshi. That club is for oukari. Those lacquer boxes, shin- 
toku ; the bowl with four handles, ttmpei ; the sake-kettle, 
yehonitts ; the chopsticks, hekohasch ; the sake-OM"^, toki ; the 
cup-stand, takashiyate. The square boxes are called sheoff" 

" Now we know all about it," said Fitz, who had written 
down the names. " Why does that hooked pole hanging from 
the roof have an iron hoop at the bottom, and a piece of iron 
projecting from it ? " 

" The hoop is to suspend pots from," she answered ; " and 
the piece of iron Is used to swing them clear of the fire." 



io8 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" What is the curved piece of wood used for, that is lying on 
the mats near the fireplace ? " asked Johnnie. 

" We put bear -meat on that to roast," she answered. " You 
cannot take things off a very fierce fire with your fingers." 

While they were conversing, Setta-eye entered, and, saluting, 
said, — 

" Your home will soon be ready for your reception. My 





AINO V, EAPONS. 



wife is seeing that it is well smoked to drive out the mos- 
quitoes." 

When he took off his weapons, the young Americans asked 
permission to examine them. 

" Be careful of the poisoned heads of the arrows," he said, 
unslinging his Zy^^ " (G) (quiver). 

" Why do they have double heads ? " demanded Johnnie. 

" The poison is in the bamboo barb (E) , which fits over the 



AN AINO HOME. 



109 



real head (D). The shaft (B) is called shtiri, and the winged 
end otzubtt : it is made of goose-feathers. The bow is made of 
untrimmed ouruma, and the cord is of the same plant as that 
used for making /^^-strings." 

" I see," said Johnnie. " You bind your bows with fine 
cord, but do not taper them as much as we do. 
What tree do you call ouruma ? " 

The chief bade one of his people fetch a speci- 
men ; and the man presently returned, bearing a 
branch which the Professor pronounced to be a 
species of yew. 

"The quiver is of strips of wood bound with 
cherry-bark," said Fitz. " It combines strength and 
lightness." 

The Professor pointed to the ornament, and 
said, — 

" That is intended to represent water, and was 
invented by the Coreans." 

"I think not," said Oto. "The design origi- 
nally came from China. We obtained it from 
Corea, and the Ainos borrowed it from us. I do 
not think the Coreans were inventors of decorative forms." 

The chief then showed them the shuttle used by his wife in 
making bark cloth. It was of dark wood, very heavy, and orna- 
mented with flowing patterns. 

" Their weaving is very primitive," said Oto, " and is more 
like your mat-making than any thing else." 

Just then the chief's wife came in, and, saluting them, said, — 

"All is ready." 

Setta-eye rose, and led the way to a large hut, neatly cov- 
ered with reeds, that stood about two hundred yards from his 
dwelling. 






no 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"That is yours," he said. "It is perfectly new, and was 
built expressly for your accommodation. I have appointed five 
servants to wait upon you. You can place your food and treas- 
ures in the storehouse behind." 

" Oh, how .delightful ! " exclaimed SalHe, surveying the 
scene. " Just fancy : we are going to live in an Aino house, 
and to stay here a while." 

" Why are those skulls put on the fence ? " asked Fitz. 




THE JEWETTS' HOME IN HOKUYAK-BETS 



" That shows a famous hunter once lived near here," replied 
the chief. " We always put those trophies on stakes near his 
house, then the bad bears do not come and attack us. Do you 
see your servant ? she is pounding millet for your attendant's 
supper." 

They thanked him, after which he took his leave, saying, — 
" You must go into your home unattended : it is yours." 
The hut, contrary to Aino fashion, was divided into three 



AN AINO HOME. II* 

rooms, each of which was provided with a mat-covered bench. 
Habo said that Setta-eye had taken great pains to learn how 
foreign houses were made, and had sent runners to Hakodate 
to study architecture. 

"This will be jolly," said Fitz. " But where are we going 
to cook? If we light a fire in here, we shall all be smothered." 
Habo led the way to the back of the structure, where they 
found a shed under which some big stones were placed so as to 
form a rest for the iron pot (used by the Ainos), a curious 
article with four rings inside the 
lid. Mrs. Jewett said she could 
bake in it, and that they had 
cooked many a chowder at pic- 
nics on a similar arrangement 
of rocks. Before nightfall Oto, 
who was quite handy, had con- 
structed a temporary table, and 
the travellers sat down to what Fitz termed a square meal. 
" I hope we shall stay here a year, sir," he said to his father. 
" Nothing like studying the habits of a people on the spot. To- 
morrow I am going to ask Chief Setta-eye to go bear-hunting." 
" I think we ought to visit the chief, and thank him for his 
kindness," said the Professor. " Come, boys." 

They found their friend entertaining five of the old men of 
his tribe, and dancing the crow-dance for their amusement. 

It was very comical to see him move his hands, and hop first 
on one foot and then on the other; while a male servant 
solemnly marched round the party, and filled their cups from a 

lacquer vessel. 

" You will please excuse us from remaining," said the Pro^ 
fessor. " We all feel very tired. Good-night." 




IRON POT. 



112 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Saramba " (good-by), cried the Ainos, making their grace- 
ful salutation, and stroking their shaggy beards. 

The drinking was continued all night and the next day in 
honor of the foreigners, and, but for the exhaustion of the sake- 
tubs, would probably have been continued indefinitely. 

Setta-eye did not call upon his visitors for nearly a week ; 
and when he came his eyes were red, as though he had not 




SETTA-EYE ENTERTAINING HIS FRIENDS 



recovered from his dissipation. He informed the Professor that 
he was about to inflict the punishment of oukajn upon a man 
who had been condemned for a serious crime ; adding, by way 
of explanation, — 

" This ceremony differs greatly from oukari, the trial of 
strength. The man who is to suffer deserves severe punish- 
ment, and is not permitted to determine when he has had 
enough • I decide that." 

"When will the sentence be carried out?" inquired the 
Professor. 



AN AINO HOME. II3 

" At noon," answered the chief. " I will conduct you to the 
place, and see that you have seats." 

At the appointed time the gentlemen of the party accom- 
panied their host to a level spot overlooking the Bear River, 
where they found quite a crowd of Ainos. 

A mat was spread upon the ground, and three old men, 
appointed to act as witnesses, knelt upon it in a row ; then a 
sad-looking woman was brought forward by her father, and 
placed upon Setta-eye's left, and her husband took up his 
position on the chief's right. By that time the foreign visitors 
had settled themselves upon a rude bench made of logs covered 
with mats, that their host had provided for them. 

At a signal from Setta-eye, the prisoner was brought in 
between two of his friends, who, turning him with his back 
towards the spectators, removed his upper garment, and stripped 
him to the waist. He was a muscular, determined-featured 
savage, who could evidently take severe punishment. The 
chief gave another signal, whereupon the prisoner's wife 
advanced, carrying a covered tub filled with water, and a branch 
of dwarf bamboo. As she uncovered the vessel, a wiry-looking 
Aino, armed with a club bound with rawhide, emerged from 
among the spectators, and, taking up his place behind the pris- 
oner, stood ready to administer the punishment. 

Setta-eye commanded silence by waving his hand, then 
said, — 

"This man has robbed his friend's wife, and must therefore 
be punished. Now hit him hard, and do not be afraid." 

The club-swinger plied his weapon with a will, and the 
prisoner bore the pain with the greatest stoicism. At every 
fifth blow his wife advanced, and sprinkled his back with 
water. 



114 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



It was some time before the fellow showed signs of weaken- 
ing : however, finally he cried out that he was sorry, and would 
never repeat the offence. When the culprit was led away, Fitz 
inquired the nature of the prisoner's crime ; whereupon the 
chief said, — 

" It is against our custom for any one to enter another man's 
house without the permission of its owner. The prisoner had 
been guilty of this offence, and had stolen the earrings belong- 




PUNISHMENT OF OUKARI. 



ing to the complainant's wife. What punishment do you award 
for such a crime ? " 

" It all depends," said Fitz to Habo. " Tell him that a. 
criminal is sometimes sent to state's prison, but if he has 
political influence he is allowed to continue his dishonorable 
career." 

" I do not understand you," she replied, with a puzzled air. 
"When an Aino commits a crime, he receives suitable pun- 
ishment." 

Fitz smiled, and remarked to his father in English, — 



AN AINO HOME. 115 

*' These Yezo-jin are real savages. They do not understand 
pohtical influence." 

" They will soon learn," replied the Professor. " It is not a 
study that requires a high degree of intelligence." 
The chief, who had listened respectfully, said,— 
" I am about to judge between two women who both lay 
claim to a shitoki. Each says that the jewel belongs to her, 
and I am going to decide the matter." 

" How do you proceed ?" inquired Johnnie. 
He invited them to follow him, and led the way to a spot 
where they saw a large iron kettle placed upon a mat, and two 
Aino women, who were regarding each other very angrily. 

The vessel, which probably contained three gallons, was 
brim-full of boiling water. As soon as the Americans had 
seated themselves, the chief addressed the women as fol- 
lows : — 

'' Echokai hi ainu ne, khemanuku ishka khetaneaf' 
(" Which of you is the culprit ? ") 

"I would like to have my ^//zM-/," said the elder. "That 
girl has my property, and will not restore it to me." 
" Produce it," said Setta-eye. 

" Indeed it is mine," answered the younger. " It was given 
me when I was married. I lost it one day when I was out in 
the woods." 

" How did you get it again ?" demanded the chief. 
" I saw it in her hut, and took possession of it." 
She then reluctantly drew the coveted article from her 
bosom, and handed it to the chief; who, holding it at arm's- 
length, said, — 

"This is a very simple affair. Only one of you can be the 
true owner: the other must tell a falsehood. It is easy to 



ii6 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



determine which is in the right. There are three stones in that 
kettle of hot water : whichever of you removes them without 
scalding her hands is innocent, and shall take the shitoki. The 
water will not injure the one who has an honest heart." 

Fitz chuckled, and was about to comment upon the rude 
ordeal ; when his father checked him, and said, — 




SAIMON. ORDEAL BY HOT WATER. 



" All primitive races practised the same punishment." 

" We call this saimon'' said Habo. " It never fails to 
detect the wrong-doer." 

The claimants " shed tears like rain," and for a time neither 
appeared desirous of scalding her fingers : however, after 
awhile the younger one bared her arm, and, thrusting it into the 
boiling water, fished out a stone, then cried to her opponent, — 

" Now you do the same." 



AN AINO HOME. "7 

The old woman made a great show of contempt, and 
advanced toward the vessel as though about to answer her 
challenger; but paused, and said in a grumbling tone,- 
" You can take the trumpery i/«;'«/«-" 

Having announced her determination, she darted a look ol 
hatred at The successful candidate, and retired. 

Setta-eye handed the jewel to its proper owner, who put it 
about her neck, and rejoined her friends. 

"The saunon is a very old custom, and it works well, 
remarked the chief. "Rogues are deterred from committmg 
crimes through fear of having to undergo this trial. 
He conducted them home, and on parting said, — 
"The hunters have just brought me word that they have 
trapped a fine bear in the mountains. Would you like to join 

me in killing it ? " 

" Very much indeed," said Fitz. " 1 have promised a num- 
ber of skins to my friends, and wish to secure them as soon as 

possible." 

Habo awoke them the next morning by calling,— 

"The hunters are here. Will you please rise, or the bear 

may get out of the pit." . , , , • 

.. We will fix him," said Fitz. " Where is my rifle, Johnnie, 

and mv cartridge-belt ? " 

"Where you left them last night," was the quiet response. 

Sallie, who heard the conversation, rose, made the party 
some coffee, and as she served it said,— 

" I am sorrv I cannot go with you. I wish I were a boy : 
you have all the fun. Cannot I accompany you at a distance . 

"Did you ever hear such foolishness!" cried Fitz. Ihe 
idea of your wanting to go bear-hunting, Sallie Jewett ! You 
would scream if you saw a bear twelve miles off, unless he were 



ii8 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



in a cage. You stay at home, and have something toothsome 
for us on our return. A nice hunt we should have if we took 
you with us ! " 

The Professor fairly bristled with weapons ; while his sons 
and Oto, in addition to their rifles, carried knives and a battery 

of small-arms. 

They found the hunt- 
ers standing near a wood- 
pile at the back of the 
house, waiting to be sum- 
moned. 

The Ainos, father and 
son, spite of their rough 
appearance, were gentle- 
mannered. 

" Where are your 
weapons ? " asked Fitz. 

" Up in the mountain," 
answered the elder. " We 
only use spears and bows 
and arrows," 

The men then spoke 
to one another in a low 
tone. 
"They are afraid of being killed," said Habo. "Ainos are 
not used to your weapons." 

" We won't hurt them," said Fitz, in a re-assuring tone. " Tell 
them we know how to use these as well as they do their bows." 
The younger of the men tied deer-hide gaiters upon hi:s 
legs ; and, when Setta-eye joined the party, he led the way 
into the mountains. 




AINO HUNTERS. 



AN AINO HOME. . 119 

The chief told them that bears were becoming very scarce, 
and where they formerly killed ten they with difficulty secured 
one. 

" I see he has a stock of inaho " (god-sticks) " with him," 
said Fitz, 

Oto nodded, and answered, — 

"They never leave home without them. He won't have 
one in his quiver when he returns." 

Ascending the mountain proved to be very hard work, and 
necessitated frequent stoppages in order to give the foreigners 
rest. 

About ten o'clock they arrived at a gorge, at the far end of 
which was a cave containing the game, which proved to be a 
fine adult brown bear. Some branches of a tree had been 
fastened across the entrance, and the animal appeared to be 
securely caged. 

It gnawed at the obstruction, and growled savagely, as 
though it would like to attack its captors. 

" May I try my hand, sir?" said Fitz, unslinging his rifle. 

" Not on any account," severely answered the Professor. 
" No sportsman would think of shooting an animal confined in 
that manner." 

" I did not know," muttered the boy. " I thought it had to 
be killed. If it gets out, it will make things lively for us. It is 
as mad as a hornet that has lost its nest." 

When Setta-eye found the foreigners would not kill the 
Imprisoned animal, he took up his position about fifty yards 
from the cave, and shouted, — 

" Now you are going to become a god," 

He then thrust an inaho into the ground, motioned his dogs 
to keep quiet, and selecting an arrow shot it at the imprisoned 



I20 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



animal, which, maddened with pain, beat against the obstruc- 
tion to its Hberty, and uttered the most piteous cries. 

The Ainos discharged a shower of arrows, and finally ren- 
dered the poor brute so furious that it threw itself against the 
barrier, and broke it down. 

"Leave it to me: I'll shoot it, I'll shoot it!" cried Fitz, 
advancing toward the creature. 




SHOOTING A TRAPPED BEAR. 



"Run, run, run!" shouted the Professor, Johnnie, and Oto, 
who dared not shoot for fear of hurting him. 

" Run away ! " shouted Setta-eye, 

Fitz took no heed of their warnings, but levelled his piece 
at the animal, which was standing on the ruins of the barrier, 
swinging its head, and uttering sharp, savage growls. 

The boy fired, striking the bear on the nose. 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. . 85 

At four o'clock they bade farewell to their friends, and 
started. Oto and the Americans carried alpenstocks ; but the 
Ainos, who all had heavy packs lashed to their shoulders, did 
not condescend to avail themselves of any such assistance. 

The mist settled in the valleys, and hung in curd-like strata 
round the hill-tops, rendering the scene very weird. Before 




long, the travellers' garments were saturated, and felt twice 
their usual weight. 

" I wish some one would wring me out," laughingly re- 
marked Johnnie. 

" It is not so bad as riding among dank herbage," said 
Sallie. " Do you know, I rather enjoy this excelsior business." 

They climbed on and on, until they reached a plateau over- 
looking a little lake, where they halted in order to see the 
sunrise. 

Presently Habo pointed downward, and exclaimed, — 



86 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" There she is ! see how beautiful she looks ! " 

The sight was certainly lovely ; for, reflected on the mirror- 
like surface, they beheld the crimson orb slowly emerge from 
its concealment, and illuminate the water with its brilliant rays. 
On turning, they saw the same sight above the mountain- 
tops. 

" Oh, oh, oh ! " ejaculated Sallie. " Crimson and gold, 
violet and silver, purple and gray, in one glorious harmony ; 
this is " — 

"Too, too utter!" said Fitz, who w^as shivering. "If I 
miss having chills and fever, I don't know any thing about 
symptoms." 

" Oh, come along ! " urged Johnnie. " We will not wake 
you so early another morning, brother dear." 

As the sun rose, the mist vanished, and the travellers' clothes 
dried ; whereupon the boy recovered his spirits, and began to 
pick flowers. 

" You, mother, shall have the white ones, and Sallie these 
dark-brown lilies trimmed with yellow," he said. " This 
reminds me of home." 

He made two bouquets, and politely presented them to his 
parent and sister. Upon smelling their gifts, Mrs, Jewett made 
a gesture of disappointment, and Sallie exclaimed, — 

"I love these blossoms of the wilderness ; " then, noticing 
her mother hastily discard hers, she added, "Why, mamma, 
what is the matter ? ", 

"These flowers vv^ere as white and pure-looking as wax, but 
their odor was unbearable," answered the lady. " As usual, 
one must not go by appearances." 

" That is so," murmured thoughtful Johnnie. " There is 
many a black heart under a white skin, and vice versa'' 




YEZO WILD FLOWERS. 



88 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

Habo, who had Hstened to the conversation, inquired what 
was the matter, and, when she learned, said, — 

"That haa plant is peculiar : its roots are good to eat, but 
it does not smell very nice. When we touch it, we always pinch 
our nostrils. They say the bad gods made it to deceive the 
Aino. We call the white flower niyo-kaV' (wheel lily). 

"The haa deceived me," said Fitz. " I think I must have 
got a chill, and lost my sense of smell." 

" You are all right," said his mother. 

As they halted for breakfast, they noticed an Aino seated in 
a valley, as though on the look-out for something. 

" He is watching for bears," said Habo. " I know him very 
well ; he is a most dutiful boy." 

" At what time do your youths become of age?" inquired 
Johnnie. 

At first she seemed puzzled : then she smiled, and said, — 

" When they are married ; until that time they live at home, 
and belong to their parents. Do you notice how very ragged 
his clothes are ? " 

" Yes," said Fitz : " his coat looks as though it had been 
used for a target. I wonder he does not get his mother to 
mend it for him." 

" He is too dutiful to trouble her," replied Habo. " He has 
made several applications to the authorities for permission to 
marry, but has been refused." 

" Why ? " sympathetically inquired Sallie. 

" Because he is not successful at hunting, or in raising 
crops," answered Habo. " When an Aino fails to pay his taxes, 
the government officials will not give him permission to marry." 

" That is only just," said Mrs. Jewett. " If a man is unable 
to keep himself, he should not be allowed to take a wife." 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 



89 



" Poor fellow ! perhaps he is in love," said Sallie. 

" Oh ! stuff and nonsense," said Fitz. " Do you think that 
great looney sitting there, and holding on to a pole like a 
gorilla, was ever in love ? I consider the Japanese authorities 
were perfectly right : he will not shoot a bear until he is gray- 
headed. I believe his mother has spoilt him." 




A LAZY AINO. 



By the time the sun has attained its meridian, the travellers 
became very tired, and were glad enough to meet a young 
Japanese merchant, who told them they would find an Aino's 
hut in the woods about a quarter of a mile on their right. 

" They own a spring of delicious water," he said, " and are 
very hospitable to strangers. If you desire it, I will show you 
the way." The Professor asked Habo if she knew the man, 
upon which she said, — 



90 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" Yes ; but I do not like to visit him, because he would not 
take the blows at an oukari given by my father," 

"You must put aside your social prejudices," said the 
Professor. " Come, we are very thirsty." 

He did not know, that, according to Aino etiquette, the 
woman was supposed not to speak to such a cowardly person : 
however, Habo was too gentle to offer any further remon- 
strance. 

They followed the merchant, and after a short walk arrived 
at the hut. 

The Aino made his peculiar salutation, and invited them 
indoors ; his wife hurrying off with a lacquer vessel, with which 
she presently returned, saying, — 

" I wish this cold water were sake'' 

" It tastes like lemonade," said Fitz. " How nice ! " 

" They put a quantity of bruised sorrel in the spring," said 
the merchant. " This fellow possesses some very fine pieces of 
lacquer. Would you like to see them ? " 

Three old Ainos came in, and, squatting, saluted the visitors ; 
then their host climbed a notched post, and reached dov. n some 
clean mats, which were spread upon the floor for the accom- 
modation of the o"uests. 

o 

" Now show your treasures," said Habo. 

The man saluted her, and, re-ascending the log, handed 
down several old swords, the scabbards of which were inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl, and beautifully lacquered. 

"These belonged to his five-times-grandfather," said Habo. 
" They were given to his ancestor by a noble whose life he 
saved. One day the lord was travelling in great haste to reach 
Matsumai, but upon arriving here found the river so high that 
he would be delayed several weeks. This greatly troubled him, 



IN THE MOUNTAINS OF YEZO. 



91 



and he shed tears ; on noticnig which, that man's five-thnes- 
grandfather inquired the cause. 

" ' Alas ! " said the noble, ' I am indeed a miserable person. 




JAPANESE CURIOS IN AINO HUT. 



My aged mother in Matsumai is at the point of death, and 
desires very much to see me. Rather than imbitter her last 
moments, I prefer to jump into the river, and to end my miser- 



92 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

able life, thus accompanying my parent along the lonely road.' 
Then this man's five-times-grandfather spoke, saying, — 

" ' Up in the side of the valley, the walls of rock almost 
touch one another ; and in that spot grows a willow-tree. 
Rather than that your mother shall suffer, we will risk our lives 
to enable you to reach her. Please follow me.' 

" Then he selected six companions ; and, after taking a bun- 
dle of inaJio, they started out, and ascended the mountain side. 

" Upon arriving at the place, they saw the tall willow which, 
about three feet from the rock, forked into two huge limbs. 
This man's five-times-grandfather climbed the strongest branch, 
and two companions followed him, each carrying an inaho'' 
(god-stick) " in his hand. Their weight gradually bent the 
willow until the limb bowed across the chasm, and they were 
enabled to seize the grass and rocks on the other side. Then 
they lifted large pieces of stone, and placed them so as to 
secure it, and, handing the noble an inaho, bade him cross the 
bridge they had made. 

" ' I am in great fear,' he said, ' never having been trained 
to perform acrobatic feats : still, remembering that my aged 
mother is desirous of seeing me, I will not care for the risk, 
even though it lead to my death ; ' saying which, he stepped 
upon the branch, and, though his heart sank very low in his 
body, he crossed in safety. 

" He gave this man's relative many beautiful things, among 
them being these swords." 

" Will he sell them ? " inquired Professor Jewett, who was 
an enthusiastic collector of Japanese weapons. 

Habo shook her head, and said, — 

" He would never part with those swords. They were given 
to him on his marriage, and will belong to his children." 



AN AINO HOME. 121 

It Uttered a sound between a snarl and a bark, lowered its 
head, and made swiftly for the lad ; who, nothing daunted, 
calmly reloaded his weapon, and shot the monster a second 
time. 

" Run, run ! " cried the agonized Professor, tugging at the 
trigger of his rifle. 

Fitz coolly reloaded, and, when the bear was within three 
yards of him, pulled for the third time. To his horror he found 
that the hammer would not work, and in another instant he felt 
the breath of the animal upon his face. 



122 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER VII. 

BEAR-HUNTING. 

He who plays with fire should not co7nplain about his burns. — Old Proverb. 
He who undertakes to catch a bear must not cry over his wounds. — AiNO 
Saying. 

FITZ did not know any thing about his rescue, a blow from 
the bear's paw having rendered him insensible. 

Upon seeing his son fall, the Professor clubbed his rifle, 
and dealt the animal a tremendous blow between the eyes. 
Johnnie and Oto rushed in, pressed the muzzles of their 
weapons against the animal's chest, and fired ; then the Ainos 
uttered frightful cries, and attacked the bear with their spears. 

The poor brute fought desperately hard, and before it died 
wounded several of the savages, who, regardless of its hug- 
ging, approached very closely, and as they thrust their spears 
taunted it, saying, — 

" You think you are a god, but we can overcome you." 

While they were despatching the creature, the Professor, 
Oto, and Johnnie were attending to Fitz. They carried him 
toward a spring of water, and bathed his face until he regained 
consciousness ; as he did so, the Ainos gave a shout of 
victory. 

The boy opened his eyes, and, glancing up at his father, 
said, — 

" I guess that b'ar hunted me. It is fortunate Sallie did 
not accompany us at a distance." 



BEAR-HUNTING, 1 2 3 

" Are you hurt anywhere ? " inquired the young doctor. 

" I don't know," answered Fitz. " I feel kinder dizzy. I 
believe there is something the matter with my neck." 

When his coat was removed, Oto discovered that the bear 
had clawed the sufferer's shoulder, and lacerated the muscles of 
his back. 

'' Oh ! it is only a scratch or two," said Fitz. " One must 
expect such things when they tackle a bear. Just smooth the 
rough places down, and put on one of your honorable plasters. 
I shall be all right in a few minutes." 

He rose, but was seized with giddiness ; and it was some 
time before he felt well enough to continue the conversation. 

Setta-eye and the other Ainos, who were very much con- 
cerned, watched him with the greatest anxiety. 

Presently the chief went to the bear, which by that time had 
been denuded of its skin, and was suspended from the limb of 
a tree, as a farmer hangs a dressed hog. He took an inako, 
and thrust it into the liver ; then cutting off a portion of the 
latter offered it to Fitz, saying, — 

" Eat this quickly : it will make you very strong." 

This was too much for the boy, who, in spite of his weak- 
ness, was as full of fun as ever. 

" Make me strong, eh? " he murmured. " It is Aino tonic, 
I Suppose. Much obliged. I made a vow to Bindzuri, not to 
take any medicine for ten years. Kindly eat it for me : it will 
do me just as much good." 

"There is nothing serious the matter with you," said the 
young doctor. " Do you think you are sufficiently recovered 
to walk home ? If you are not, we will improvise an ambu- 
lance for you." 

" Not if I can prevent you," was the quiet rejoinder. 



124 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" What would mother and Sallie think if they saw a procession 
of that sort descending the mountain ? No, thank you, Dr. 
Nambo." 

" I will go ahead and tell them," said the Professor. " You 
can rest, and need not hurry home." 

When his father had departed, Fitz remarked, — 
" This must be a cool country in the winter." 
" It is," answered Oto, "The thermometer goes down until 
you cannot see the mercury, and the wind blows hard enough to 
take you off your feet.. Some years ago my grandfather, who 
was very fond of hunting, came up here to shoot bears." 
" Did they chase him ? " 

" Oh, no ! " answered Oto. " He engaged the Ainos to dig 
a pit, which he baited with sweet-potatoes. The natives built a 
temporary shelter near the spot, and put inaho outside for luck. 
One morning they came to him in a great hurry, saying that 
the bear was in the pit, and would my grandfather hasten to 
kill the creature ? My relative started at a great pace, being 
very anxious to secure the prize. Upon reaching the hut, the 
Ainos entered in order to warm their frozen fingers ; but my 
ancestor kept right on, making great leaps over the snow, and 
causing the scabbards of his swords to rattle noisily. This 
greatly alarmed the bear, which in its struggles presently 
scrambled to the top of the pit. Noticing this, my grandfather 
halted, and discharged his weapon. The bear, infuriated by the 
wound, contrived to escape, and made its way up the mountain 
side ; seeing which, my grandfather pressed on, and forgetting 
the pitfall tumbled in. The Ainos, not having witnessed his 
accident, continued to warm themselves, while he struggled to 
do as the animal had done. In vain he shouted ; his voice was 
muffled as though he were in a well, and the watchers failed to 



126 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

hear him. At nightfall they came out with torches, and dis- 
covered his whereabouts, he having been in the hole eight 
hours. I have a picture of this incident, and will give it to you 
to show your friends." 

" Come," said Fitz. " Let us be moving. I am afraid 
mother will worry on my account." 

As they descended the mountain they heard shouts behind 
them, and, looking back, beheld an enormous bear stealing 
away from the huntsmen ; who, as they ran, rapidly discharged 
their arrows. 

" Let us have a shot at it/' said Fitz. " Give me my rifle, 
Johnnie." 

" You have had enough sport for to-day," answered his 
brother. 

While they were speaking, the animal was sneaking down 
the ravine, and Oto was " drawing a bead on it." 

The report was sharp ; and the ball struck its object, causing 
the bear to quicken its pace. 

Fitz took his rifle from his brother, and, spite of his lame 
back, raised it to his shoulder, and pulled. The missive took 
effect just behind the bear's shoulder, and rolled the animal 
over. 

"'Rah! 'Rah!" shouted the excited lad. "One for our 
side. Ain't I glad I came ! I'll get a fine skin, and bear's- 
grease enough to last sister all her life." 

They approached the carcass, and, after examining it, told 
the Ainos to be very careful in removing the pelt ; then made 
the best of their way home. 

Mrs. Jewett and Sallie were on the lookout for them ; and, 
when they saw the party, ran forward exclaiming, — 

" Fitz, why did you rush into such danger? Are you badly 
hurt?" 



128 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" I have killed a bear anyhow," he replied. 

" You mean that it nearly killed you," said Sallie. '* O Fitz 
Jewett ! you have given us such a scare ! " 

" You are not as badly scared as the bear, sis," he slyly 
answered. "He is what the Ainos cd\\ d. shig-oma. — Mother, 
you shall have the skin for a rug." 

At first Mrs. Jewett thought he was joking : however, when 
Oto and Johnnie confirmed his statement, she said, — 

" I am both glad and sorry, — glad because you have been 
so fortunate ; and sorry because I know, now you have secured 
one skin, you will not rest iantil you have a dozen." 

When the Professor heard the news, he said, — 

" I congratulate you, my son. Now take a rest." 

Habo was much concerned when she discovered that Fitz 
had been injured. She insisted upon seemg the scratches, and 
wanted to apply an Aino remedy to them ; remarking, — 

" You encountered the chief of the bears. The creature 
was once a great tree in the mountains : now its life is cut off, 
it will again become a tree. It was a wonder you escaped so 
easily. You ought to take a sweat to get rid of the poison." 

" I would rather take a cup of coffee," said the merry 
fellow. " As for rubbing in your ointment, you must ask 
Dr. Nambo." 

Oto decided that it was unnecessary, and said a good bath 
would be of greater service than any Aino specific. 

" We have secured a sake-tub" said the Professor. " You 
will find it already filled in your room." 

That evening the travellers enjoyed a meal of bear-meat, at 
the conclusion of which they inspected the skins brought down 
from the mountain by the Aino. 

Setta-eye promised to have them dressed, and forwarded to 



BEAR-HUNTING. 1 29 

Hakodate by the time they returned from Saghahn : then salut- 
ing them in his graceful fashion was retiring, when he paused, 
and, addressing the Professor, said, — 

"We are going to hold the festival of lyomante'' (killing 
and worshipping the bear). " It is usually done in the fall ; but 
last year, at the appointed time, the shigoma was very sick. 
Now he is quite well again, and we are all anxious to make a 
god of him. I have decided to do this to-morrow. Can you 
be present ? " 

" Yes, indeed," was the reply : " both myself and friends 
would like to witness the rites." 

When he was gone, Habo introduced a middle-aged woman, 
named Ochin, who said that she had been the foster-mother of 
the bear that was to be sacrificed. 

" Foster-mother ? " said Fitz. " What does she mean ? " 

" Well, you see the bear is taken from its mother when it is 
a few days old," said Habo. "It is a little, blind, helpless 
creature, and requires nursing like a baby. If the foster- 
mother is good-tempered, the bear will be amiable. If she is 
bad, the animal will be savage. We are very careful in appoint- 
ing the bear's attendant." 

"What have you in that bag around your neck?" inquired 
Mrs. Jewett. 

The woman untied the receptacle, and, taking a paper from 
it, replied, — 

" This is my marriage-permit. It was given me by the 
Japanese officials, and a similar one was handed to my hus- 
band." 

" Why is there only half a seal on it?" inquired Sallie. 

" Both certificates were written on one piece of paper, and 
the seal was placed between them," explained the woman. 



I30 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"This proves I am the wife of Toki, the person who owns the 
other half." 

" What is the Aino name for married woman ? " asked Fitz. 



sr\'£5^'ti^v-^4*t- 



^ / ll^^'^SfelS ^"^ 



0^4^*^ 









^+-^3^ 



C/y'a^uya ^.aZi^^ 










7W 



^' 



i.^*t. ^AC-^^ •*-ie^^ 



9 S*^^n,^Cy "fCM^ 



^2*^ ^»w.«C 






AINO MARRIAGE-PERMIT. 



'^ Machi!,' answered Habo. "An unmarried female is 
termed menoco, and a young girl mencoshi. As soon as we 
are married, we cut our hair across the forehead." 
: "What we call bang it," said Fitz. "Our ladies, of all 



BEAR-HUNTING. 131 

ages, have their hair banged. Why do some of yours let it 
grow long, and hang over their eyes ? " 

" That is a sign of mourning," said Habo. " When we lose 
out relations, we let our hair grow for three years : it makes us 
look very sad. The other day you asked me why we tattooed 
our hands, and why no Aino likes you to look into the window 
of his house. I have inquired of the chief's mother, who is a 
very aged person, and knows every thing. She says, in ancient 
times there lived a god named Kocha. He was six feet high, 
and had long, powerful hands. His houses, which were made 
of earth, were all over the land. Every one admired his skill 
in fishing and hunting ; and he was very generous, — often 
putting bear-meat and fish in at the windows of the Ainos' 
huts, though he never taught the people to capture either the 
seal or the bear. At last he became offended at our ancestors' 
ignorance, and took his wife, and quitted the land. Since that 
time no Aino likes any one to look through the window of his 
house, believing that such an act should only be done by the 
gods. But when an Aino is going to fish for seals, or hunt a 
bear, his harpoon or his spear and bows and arrows are passed 
through the window ; and on his return every thing he cap- 
tures is taken into the house through the same aperture. The 
god-stick, placed near a dead bird on the window-sill, represents 
the god Kocha." 

" But how about the tattooing ? " inquired Sallie. 

" Kocha-kami's wife, who was a very beautiful woman, had 
her mouth, arms, and hands tattooed," answered Habo. "The 
traces of the god and his wife are seen in many places ; and we 
sometimes find pieces of pottery, and the jewels they wore, 
when we dig new land to plant millet. Aino women, wishing 
to preserve the memory of Kocha-kami's wife, and to possess 



132 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



her virtues, tattoo themselves as she did. Now will you please 
excuse me, as the chief has sent us some sake, and I have to 
serve it to the men." 

She saluted them, and retired ; and they presently saw her 

filling large cups with the wine 
from some lacquer vessels placed 
on a mat in the cook-house. 

" I wonder the Japanese don't 
prevent the Ainos from drink- 
ing so much," said Johnnie. 

Oto smiled, and answered, — 
" Our government does try, 
but it can no more prevent 
drunkenness among the Ainos 
than yours can among the Indians. We no longer give them 
yearly allowances of sake" 

" Come, boys," said the Professor. " I think you had 
better retire. To-morrow we will have to rise early to witness 
the lyomante.'* 




lYOMANTE. 133 



CHAPTER VIII. 

lYOMANTE. 

" To-day we worship you as a god: 
Therefore eat what we offer, and enjoy yours elf r 

AiNo's Speech to the Bear. 

FIVE o'clock, and time to rise," said the Professor. " Habo 
tells us that to-day's entertainment is called. Hinzinzo" 
(feeding the bear). "The men of the tribe have been up since 
dawn, making inaho. hs> soon as the sun is over the moun- 
tain, the ceremony will begin : so rise, my boys, and get your 
breakfast." 

Fitz yawned, and said in a grumbling tone, — 

"I wonder folks go to bed at all in this country. They 
could feed the bear just as well at noon as at sunrise. It has 
to be killed anyhow." 

" You are very much like a bear, brother," said Sallie from 
the next room. 

" How?" he inquired. 

"You are always growling," she replied. "Just think of 
it : we shall witness a ceremony that has seldom been seen by 
foreigners, and learn how they conduct the rite of bear- 
worship." 

" I wish I could find my boots," mumbled her brother. " I 
have not had a wink of sleep all night." 

"Why, Fitz dear ! we heard you snoring," said Mrs. Jewett. 

" Yes, mother, if I am very tired, I snore when I am wide 



134 



THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



awake," he quickly answered. " Did not sleep a wink, mother, 
all night — fact." 

After he had dressed, Oto came in, and, rubbing his hands, 
exclaimed, — 

" We are going to see some fun to-day. The Ainos are out 
in full force ; and Setta-eye is wearing his crown, and looks as 
imposing as a drum-major." 




MAKING INAHO. 



Breakfast was quickly despatched ; after which the chief 
called upon them, and, saluting them gravely, said, — 

" Every thing is ready." 

They followed him to a spot near his hut, where they found 
the bear's cage, surrounded by Ainos, who were dancing, 
shouting, or whittling inaho. 

"Why, there are thousands of the god-sticks made," re- 
marked Johnnie. " What are they going to do with them?" 

Habo explained, — 

" Those will be used during the next three days." 



lYOMANTE. 135 

They watched the men, and noticed the dexterous manner 
in which they turned out the inaho. 

After the visitors had been accommodated with seats, Setta- 
eye gave the signal for the dance to begin ; whereupon the 
women brought the bear some dried fish, and, addressing it, 
said, — 

" Honor us by eating this poor food." 

The foster-mother next advanced, and, speaking to the 
animal, said, — 

" I beg of you to be very patient, and not to bite, my son." 

The bear growled, and taking the fish proceeded to mun^-h 
it with great relish. While he was enjoying himself, three 
Aino women and ten men approached the cage, and began to 
stamp, whine, and dance, as they did so, shouting, — 

" To-day we worship you as a god, 
Therefore eat what we offer, and enjoy yourself." 

All of the tribe took turns in thus dancing and singing ; the 
entertainment continuing until sunset, when a miniature fence 
was made round his cage with inaho, and he was left alone for 
the night. 

At sunrise the woman who had attended him spread a 
new mat of red and brown reeds in front of the cage, then 
withdrew the lower bars, and, bowing, said, — 

*' Honorable god, please come out." 

The creature obeyed, and, rising upon its haunches, rubbed 
its nose, and made a peculiar whimpering noise, which affected 
the woman to tears. 

In a few moments the Americans heard a great shouting ; 
and presently Setta-eye appeared, grasped the bear by its ears, 
and rode on its back. 



lYOMANTE. 



m 



The animal shambled round, uttered loud growls, and 
charged right and left at the people. 

This amusement was kept up until noon, when the chief 
gave a signal, and every one rushed for their bows and blunt 
arrows. Even the little children, provided with these weapons, 
were brouofht in the mothers' 
arms, or Indian fashion, on 
their backs, to fire a shot. 

Ropes were secured to the 
bear's hind-legs, and he was 
pulled hither and thither until 
he became really dangerous. 

As the sun descended, 
Setta-eye turned towards the 
western mountain, and said, — 

" Bear, I make you happy." 

At this signal, his son ad- 
vanced to the victim, and dis- 
charged a blunt arrow at him. 
A shower of the missives fol- 
lowed, and caused the poor 
brute to rear, snarl, and snap 
at every thing within his reach. 

In a little while he was led back to his cage, and secured 
for the night. 

The ceremony of the next day was a very simple one. At 
sunrise the bear was let out of his cage, and conducted to a 
place where two large timbers were laid upon the ground. 
When he was fairly on these, a beam was lifted upon his neck, 
and, in the twinkling of an eye, loaded down with Ainos. As 
the executioners squeezed the life out of the poor thing, they 




AINO BABIES. 



138 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



chanted in a mournful way, in order to drown its cries and the 
lamentations of its foster-mother, who, seated near the bear's 
head, wept and rocked herself with grief, while her child 
exclaimed, — 

'' Pirika, pirika!'' (good, good.) 

" See-saw, Margery Daw," said Fitz, as the Ainos moved up 
and down like schoolboys on a plank. 




TORMENTING THE BEAR. 



" Please do not interrupt the ceremony," whispered Sallie. 

" Circus, you mean," he retorted. " Poor old bear ! he 
won't have a kick in him when they get through." 

The foster-mother's husband next advanced with a sword, 
with which he touched the bear's eyes, nose, and ears, all the 
male Ainos following his example ; after which millet-seed was 
thrown among the crowd. 

"That is to make them strong when hunting," whispered 
Habo. 



I40 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" Come," said Mrs. Jewett, " I have seen enough of this. 
Let us go home, I am tired out." 

" What a primitive race they are ! " remarked the Professor. 

"Quite so," said his wife, — "almost too primitive forme. 
I think their see-sawing the bear to death was most barbarous." 

" Mr. Bergh ought to be here," said SalHe, who agreed with 
her mother. 

" The Aino would not care if he were," said Johnnie. 
"They would just yell, and go ahead; and Mr. Bergh would 
have to do as we did, leave them alone. These children of 
nature do not know they are acting cruelly." 

On the following day the chief called upon his visitors, and, 
after saluting them gravely, said, — 

" Now every thing is ready, will you come and see us 
worship the shigame ? " 

As the party passed through the village, they noticed all 
the Ainos were busily engaged making inaho, which were 
placed in front of the huts, in the window-apertures, and on all 
prominent places. Every one was dressed in his best robes ; 
the women wore their jewelry, and the men their swords ; even 
the yellow, wolf-like dogs, of which there were hundreds, 
having a sleek look as though they had been brushed for the 
occasion. 

" This is evidently a very solemn ceremonial," remarked the 
Professor. " Fitz, I trust you will be discreet, and not make 
remarks that will cause these poor people to feel mortified." 

"They do not understand what I say, sir," answered the 
boy. " Besides, I would not hurt their feelings on any account: 
they might stop the obsequies." 

His father frowned, and was about to reply, when they 
arrived at a cleared place in the rear of the village, where they 



lYOMANTE. 141 

beheld a matted enclosure, the back of which was surmounted 
with peeled branches of trees decorated with the skulls of 
bears, many inaho, and weapons. 

The Americans were conducted to rude seats, covered with 
skins placed on new mats of red and brown reeds. 

" We shall have an excellent view here," said Sallie. " Oh ! 
isn't this interesting? There is the poor bear lying on the 
mat." 

"That is only his skin," said Fitz, who had regarded it 
critically. " Oto says they finished the body at supper last 
night. They are very sensible heathen : they don't mind mak- 
ing soup of their gods." 

"Hush!" said the Professor. "What are these old men 
going to do ? " 

" Wish they would give us a programme," murmured Fitz. 

Habo, who knelt near them, bowed and whispered, — 

" These are three chiefs of other tribes, who have come to 
witness the festival of lyomante. Setta-eye's wife is putting a 
mat on the ground where they are to sit, to show that this tribe 
wishes to pay them great respect." 

The patriarchs took their places, the senior on the right and 
the junior on the left. All of them had shaggy heads of hair, 
heavy eyebrows and moustache, and trimmed beards, and were 
otherwise as hairy as bears, which they strongly resembled. 

"What enormous earrings they wear ! " said Johnnie to his 
sister. " It is stranee, the men of all semi-barbarous nations 
should use those adornments." 

While the chiefs were seating themselves, the whole village 
had assembled, and taken their places on either side of the 
foreign guests. 

Setta-eye, who was very dignified, waited until every thing 



142 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



was quiet : then gracefully saluting the Americans, introduced 
the old men as follows : — 

" These elders are from tribes through whose districts you 
will pass on your way northward. They desire to salute you, 
and to say their lives are at your disposal. The first is named 
Poro-Parumbe, the second Kure Kina, the third Taiki Kamoi- 
yashi " (ghost of a flea). 

" I wish we only encountered the latter," said Johnnie. 
" That old fellow was misnamed." 

His father made a gesture of caution ; and the three chiefs 




AINO CHIEFS SALU.TING STRANGERS. 



placed their left hands over their right, and began to rub them. 
This they continued to do for over five minutes; during which 
time they looked very grave, and regarded the foreigners with 
great reverence. 

At a signal from Setta-eye, they raised their hands, and 
placed th^m on the top of their heads. 

"That," whispered Habo, "means, they respect you so 
much, that they wish to place you on their heads." 

" Sit on. them?" inquired Fitz. " Not to-day, thank you." 

Setta-eye made another signal, seeing which the three 
chiefs brought their hands down over their faces and beards, 



lYOMANTE. 143 

and uttered a whining noise, ending with a sharp cry Hke the 
bark of a dog. When this had been repeated three times, they 
rose, and joined the spectators. 

Setta-eye bowed, and, pointing to the enclosure, said (his 
speech being translated by Habo), — 

" To-day we have built that god-fence, in order to honor 
the deity who lies there. You see it is formed of nice new 
mats, and that we have adorned it with the skulls of the 
god-bears who have gone before this one, with Kocha-kami " 
(ancient-god) ''inaho, with old swords, bows and arrows, leather 
aprons, and oukari-chihs. The arukitsufu'' (god-bear) "reclines 
with dignity upon a new mat, with his nose sniffing at cups of 
wine and oil. On either side of him are beautiful articles 
given our ancestors by the gods " (Japanese officials), " and the 
entrance is adorned with wooden vases containing bamboo- 
grass. The god has rings in his ears, and a sword on his left 
side ; and those boxes contain the clothes he is going to wear, 
now he is a deity." 

Setta-eye then bowed and retired. Immediately after this, 
three mats were placed in front of the enclosure, and the chief, 
having put on a kami-shimo (ceremonial coat, that has wing- 
like projections on the shoulders), removed his crown, and knelt 
directly opposite the bear, his eldest son being on his right, and 
his youngest on his left. The three old chiefs then took up 
their positions on the mat upon his left, the master of the 
ceremonies on the mat upon his right, while the foster-mother 
of the bear, with her husband and child, were honored with 
places behind him.' 

" How exceedingly interesting! " murmured the Professor. 

The chief bowed his head to flie mat, uttered the peculiar 

' Vide Frontispiece. 



144 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



Aino cry, terminating in a sharp bark, after which, taking a cup 
that had been filled by his son, dipped a sake-st\c]<L in it, and 
made three libations to the bear. This done, he solemnly raised 
his moustache with the stick, and drank the wine. He per- 
formed the ceremony thrice, the privileged ones on the mats 

repeating the action once. 

The servants, from time to 
time, brought fresh supplies of 
sake, fish, and rice; and the cere- 
mony soon resembled a picnic, 
much food being consumed and 
sake drank in honor of the god. 
Two ancient swords were then 
brought by an old man, and laid 
before the bear ; after which 
Setta-eye offered it more wine 
and food, and said in a very 
impressive manner, — 

" Churu kamoi tanewa kokuno 
kamoi in akatsti, tan nakineteinate 
siniriuiso wan. Shekan na kamoi 
nia mutsu Oya wa churu ki nankoru kuno shu tachikanateiie 
ye chiroku kanan kanan hatsu chiinan meshina'^ 

("My god, to-day I, the chief, send you forth as a god. If 
you come again — as a little bear — next year, I will take care 
of you. Now you kindly leave.") 

" How intensely interesting ! " said the Professor. " Our 
ancestors must have practised just such rites. This is looking 
back thousands of years." 

"They require enlightenment," quietly replied his wife. 
•'To me this scene is very saddening." 




SERVING WINE AT lYOWlANTE. 



lYOMANTE. 



145 



" I am afraid they would not value our teaching," said 
Johnnie. " You see the lyomajite combines a feed of bear- 
soup with much j-^^/C'^-drinking : they would not care to ex- 
change such a faith for ours." 

" Jes' so," said Fitz, whose eyes twinkled with merriment. 
" Besides, they could not make soup of their teachers." 

"That will do, my son," gently remarked his mother. 




OURI SALUTATION. 



The rest of the ceremony consisted in drinking sake, which 
did not prove very interesting to the foreigners, who, after 
thanking Setta-eye, returned home. 

As they neared their house, they saw two Ainos, a man 
and woman, squatting on the ground, holding each other's 
hands, and makinof a dismal howlino- noise. 

" What are they doing ? " asked Mrs. Jewett. 



146 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"Performing ow'-V (salutation), said Habo. "They are 
brother and sister who have been parted : watch tliem." 

The man held the woman's hand for a few seconds, tlren, 
suddenly releasing his hold, grasped her by both ears, and 
uttered the Aino cry. Then they stroked one another down 
the face and shoulders, and, once more clasping hands, shed 
tears of joy. 

" These people are very glad to see one another," said 
Habo. " That man has been on the coast fishing, and has 
only just returned." 

"I thought they were sick," said Fitz. "Why do you 
always bark like that ? " 

" We do it to honor our ancestors," she replied. "It is an 
old Aino fashion." 

Presently they encountered one of their servants, who, as 
they passed her, knelt, and placed her right forefinger on her 
upper lip. 

" What is Matek-isep signalling about ? " inquired Johnnie. 

" She is very polite," answered Habo. " When an Aino 
girl meets a friend, she salutes in that way." 

" I suppose that is another old Aino custom," said Fitz. 

" Yes : it was taught our ancestors by the wife of the god 
Kocha. An Aino girl is too bashful to speak." 

Upon entering the house they saw a large iron pot con- 
taining a stew made of bear's-fiesh, ground millet, Jiaa-xooXs, 
and fish-oil. 

"This is your share of the feast," said Habo. "The chief 
has sent it with his respects. It is very good, and such food 
will make your hair beautiful and glossy." 

" It would turn mine gray," murmured Fitz. " I • have 
heard that bear's grease is a good thin^ for the hair, but I 



lYOMANTE, 147 

decline to take it internally. This is the worst chowder I ever 



saw. 



As he spoke in English, Habo had not understood him : 




AINO WOMAN'S RECOGNITION. 



however, she guessed by his tone that he was not anxious to 
partake of the meal, so she said in an aside, — 

" The servants will be very happy to eat that for you. It is 
very strengthening, and makes one live a long time." 



148 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Go ahead, then," he whispered. " May you all live to be 
a hundred years old ! I do not envy you." 

" Come to the door, and look at these men," said Sallie. 
" Here is a curious sight." 

They joined her, and beheld two Ainos kneeling close to 
each other, knee to knee, and uttering the dog- like cry. 
"What is that caper?" said Fitz to Habo. 
"That is oiu^i too," she replied. "Those men are relatives. 

The old one has grasped 
his son's ears, and now 
they are going to cry." 

The men did as she 
said, and continued to 
weep for over twenty min- 
utes ; after which they 
calmly rose, lighted their 
pipes, and went on their 
Vi^ay. 

"We shed tears when 
we meet after long separa- 
tion," said Habo. 

" We do it when we 
are parting from our 
friends," said Sallie. " We very seldom cry when we meet 
them." 

" You used to cry when aunt Allen visited us," mischiev- 
ously remarked Fitz. 

" Don't tease me so, brother," she replied. " I do not 
believe you like her any more than I do." 

" Who is your aunt Allen ? " asked Oto. " I fail to remem- 
ber ever having seen her." 




MEETING OF FATHER AND SON 



lYOMANTE. 149 

" No," said Johnnie. " She never inflicted herself upon our 
household after you came to stay with us." 

" I suppose she did not want to associate with a Japanese," 
said Oto, smiling; "or, maybe, she took me for a heathen 
Chinee." 

" I will tell you," said Sallie. " Aunt Allen is not at all 
nice : she is mean, suspicious, narrow-minded, and insincere. 
But that is her misfortune. She has been, all her life, in a 
village, and has never known the great world. She hates the 
English, because our ancestors had a little unpleasantness with 
them ; will not speak to her neighbor, on account of the latter 
not belonging to her church ; and is, altogether, an unlovable 
being. But papa says we ought to overlook her faults, because 
she has never had an opportunity of seeing any place but West 
Stonehill : so we try to endure her society." 

"We have such people in Japan," said the young doctor; 
" and to them applies the proverb, ' The toad in the well knows 
not the great ocean.' " 

They dined upon some delicious venison and salmon, sent 
them by Setta-eye, who, during their stay in his village, had 
supplied their table with, fish and game, 

Hokuyak-bets was swarming with salmon, and the young 
Americans had often regretted not having brought fishing- 
tackle with them. 

The ceremony of lyomante lasted for nearly a week, during 
which time the Ainos freely indulged in sake. When the 
festival was over, the men went into the mountains to hunt ; 
and the women tilled the patches of grain, and split and wove 
the bark of a tree from which they make their clothing. 

The bear's skin was duly cured and dried, then presented to 
Mrs. Jewett by Setta-eye. 



150 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"■ You cannot say you did not see it killed, mother," said 
Fitz. " I think you were entitled to its pelt." 

The weather was delightfully mild up in the mountains ; and 
the party were so pleased with Hokuyak-bets and its chief, that 
they lingered nearly a month in the place, every thing going 
on just as though they were not there. 

Twice the Professor and boys went bear-hunting, and were 
rewarded by securing three fine hokuyak. As usual, Fitz 
enjoyed himself, and had an adventure which caused much 
merriment to his friends. 

They had been hunting all the morning, and were resting 
and refreshing themselves with luncheon, when one of the dogs 
began to whimper as though he smelt a bear. The Ainos said 
it was a puppy, and did not know any thing ; but that did not 
satisfy Fitz, who, hastily finishing his repast, ascended a rocky 
eminence, and, taking out a field-glass, began to scan the 
scenery. 

" You will not see a trace of a bear," said his brother. 
"That dog gives tongue whenever it feels in the humon 
Come down and take a rest while you have a chance." 

*' Scssch, scssch ! " went Fitz, makino- a siofnal that he had 
discovered the game, and suddenly throwing himself upon his 
stomach. 

The Professor regarded him with an amused expression, and 
said, — 

" He will be tired out before night. See, he Is levelling his 
weapon at something." 

" He will hit it," said the young' doctor. " Fitz is becoming 
a first-rate shot." 

A puff of smoke came from the rifle, and they heard the 
ping of the bullet. 



lYOMANTE. 151 

The young hunter put his glass to his eyes, and eagerly 
regarded something in the valley, then, cautioning his friends 
with his hand, reloaded and fired. 

" I believe it is a bear," exclaimed the Professor. " Come, 
boys, let us join Fitz." 

They grasped their rifles, and climbed up to the plateau ; 
when Fitz said in a low tone, — 

" I have hit him twice, but he don't budge. He is down 
there, between those two trees." 

They levelled their glasses at the object, and simultaneously 
exclaimed, — 

'' Yes, it is a bear ! " 

In a few moments the whole party was blazing away like an 
old-fashioned target company. 

" I saw it move its head," said Fitz. 

" Suppose we try closer quarters," suggested the Professor, 
after the twentieth round. " I think the bear must have been 
shot through the heart." 

Just then the Ainos — who had staid below in order to 
devour the remains of the lunch — joined them, and, on seeing 
the object of their attack, said, — 

" The bear is dead ! " 

" I thought so," said Fitz, who had learned a few words of 
their language. " Come, let us go and examine my prize, and 
secure its skin." 

" Your prize ! " said Johnnie. " We all helped to kill him." 

" Certainly we did," added his father. " I fired the shot 
that made it wag its head." 

" I do not want to be too confident," remarked Oto ; " but I 
believe my third shot settled the creature. I could see its eyes 
glistening, and I struck it in a vital spot." 



152 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"What are those Ainos grinning at?" said Fitz, in a some- 
what annoyed tone. 

" The bear is dead ! " once more exclaimed the hunters. 

"We know that," said Fitz; adding in English, "I do not 
like to be laughed at by savages." 

The descent into the valley proved to be somewhat danger- 
ous, and the party had several severe mishaps. 

" I am afraid I have sprained my ankle," said the Professor. 
" This is very hard travelling." 

" Better rest, sir," said the young doctor. " It is some 
distance to where the bear is lying. I will remain with you 
while the boys and hunters go and secure the skin." 

The Professor and Oto seated themselves, and watched the 
lads. 

They descended quite recklessly, and raced to see who 
should first examine the prize, finally reaching it almost 
simultaneously. 

"What makes the Ainos laugh so?" queried the Professor. 
" My sons look as mad as hornets. Why, they are coming 
back without touching it ! " 

Neither of the lads hurried ; and when they got within 
hailing distance, Oto shouted, — 

" Was it not a bear ? " 

" Yes," grumbled Johnnie. 

Not another word was spoken until they rejoined the party, 
when the Professor remarked, — 

" I suppose the skin is shot all to pieces and quite useless." 
Fitz, who could no longer contain himself, burst out laugh- 
ing, and said, — 

" The hunters were right when they said, ' The bear is dead,' 
It ceased to suffer a month ago." 



lYOMANTE. 



15: 



They had great fun over this adventure ; and, as the Hght 
was falling, made the best of their way home. 

The next mornino^ the Professor told the chief he must start 
for the north, on hearing which Setta-eye said, — 




AINO WRESTLING WITH HEAR. 



" Before you go, you should see one of my people wrestle 
with a bear which we captured last winter. It is a very clever 
animal, and understands every thing that is said to it." 

The gentlemen of the party witnessed the exhibition, which 
took place in a large hut that served as a "city hall" for the 
tribe. 



154 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

When the bear was led out of its cage, it was confronted by 
a hairy Aino, who, seizing it under and over its fore-arms, 
hugged it, and strove to lift it off the ground. After wrestling 
for a while, the shaggy brute rushed to the window, and, before 
the Ainos could prevent it, escaped through the aperture, and 
made for the mountains, followed in hot haste by the chief, his 
people, and about five hundred yellow dogs. 

"Go it!" cried Fitz. "I hope the critter will get off. It 
is rough to be trotted out for wrestling-matches, and then 
squeezed to death and worshipped at lyomanteT 

The chief did not return until nightfall, when he sorrowfully 
remarked to the Professor, — 

" The bear has departed." 

"We must go to-morrow," was the reply. " We shall never 
forget your hospitality." 

Setta-eye saluted them in his courteous way, and, sighing, 
exclaimed, — 

" Then my heart will be heavy. All one's friends leave at 
the same time." 



IN THE WILDS OF YEZO. 1 55 



CHAPTER IX. 

IN THE WILUS OF YEZO. 

" You, O sea, are our father, and you, forest, our mother: we humbly present 
our thanks to you both. Do not be jealous if we leave one to remain with the other. 

" Our home is in the dense forests that lie in the heart of Vezo." — AiNO's 
Speech. 

CHIEF SETTA-EYE was destined not to lose his guests for 
a while. The Professor's sprain, which the first day had 
appeared a trifling matter, prevented him from starting, and, 
indeed, threatened to keep him a prisoner at Hokuyak-bets. 

" How long do you think it will be before I am fit to 
travel ? " he inquired of Oto. 

" Probably a fortnight," answered the young doctor. " Yes- 
terday you walked from the mountain, then, instead of resting, 
went to see the man wrestle with the bear. The only thing is, 
to keep your foot from the ground, and to take matters easy." 

"Well, I suppose I will have to do as you advise," said the 
Professor with a sigh. "While I am chained here, you and 
the boys had better visit Lake Kutzu-chako on the south-east, 
near Nemoro. Habo tells me a wonderful story of an Aino 
fort built on the top of a mound on the shore of the lake, the 
water of which never freezes. As I very much doubt that 
the Yezo-jin were ever smart enough to make a fortification, I 
would like you to go to the place. Perhaps you will find it is a 
dolmen or a hillock erected by mound-builders. Anyhow the 
trip will serve to while away the time." 



156 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

They consulted the chief, who not only approved of the 
plan, but offered to accompany them. 

The party consisted of Fitz, Johnnie, Oto, Setta-eye, Habo, 
and about fifty Ainos, who were armed with bows and poisoned 
arrows, and carried long- spears. 

"This is what I call having a good time," remarked Fitz. 
" We shall, no doubt, encounter a great many adventures." 

The country was very mountainous, and on all sides they 
saw evidences of volcanic action. 

After three days of exceedingly hard travel, they arrived at 
a plateau overlooking a beautiful lake. 

"This is Kutzu-chako," said Habo; "and there, on the 
right, is Menka-koshi ; that was made by the Ainos, and used 
as a place of retreat against their enemies." 

The view was very beautiful. At their feet was the lake, 
on the blue waters of which rested a number of small craft, 
and faV off rose the peaks of Mounts Meacan and Oakan. 

"Those are extinct volcanoes," said Oto, "This whole 
island is dotted with such objects. See how red the sides 
look, as though the fires beneath them had just gone out." 

The travellers descended into the village, and paid their 
respects to the officer of the Kaitakushi, who proved to be a 
very pleasant gentleman. 

" I will take you to the old fort to-morrow," he remarked. 
" It is well worth visiting. Now rest yourselves, and enjoy my 
poor hospitality." 

The official's house was surrounded by a stockade ; but there 
was no gate at the entrance, or any sign that it was fortified 
against the Ainos. 

The travellers were accommodated with nice rooms, and a 
mess of fresh fish was cooked for their supper. 



158 . THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"There are quite a number of Japanese living here," re- 
marked Johnnie. " One would scarcely think it paid them to 
settle in such an out-of-the-way place," 

" We raise a great deal of wheat in this district," an- 
swered their host ; " and the fishing of the lake is quite profit- 
able." 

Soon after the repast the boys begged permission to retire, 
saying they had not had a good night's rest since they left 
Hokuyak-bets. 

At daybreak they were aroused by Habo, who said, — 

"Come and see the Japanese catching j^^^^ " (crayfish): 
" it is very amusing." 

The boys hurried on their clothes, and ran down to the 
shore, where they saw a number of fishermen hauling a seine. 
There vv?ere about twenty adults in the party, and they were 
making noise enough for two hundred. When the net was 
dragged on to the beach, they emptied its contents into seine- 
shaped baskets of bamboo, then signalled the boats in the 
centre of the lake to approach and take the catch. 

"Where do those craft come from?" inquired Johnnie. 

" From Katsurakoi," Habo answered. " There the fish are 
put on board junks, and taken to Hakodate, where they are 
dried, and exported to China." 

The boys watched the fishermen fill their baskets, and when 
the last crayfish was captured the lads returned to their host, 
the Japanese official. After breakfast, they started in a boat 
for Menka-koshi, a distance about three-quarters of a mile from 
their friend's residence. 

The sun was very warm, and the air swarmed with enormous 
dragon-flies that fiew hither and thither and made a whirring 
sound. 



l6o THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" We cal] those ' darning-needles ' at home," said Fitz. 
" Ha/e you ever seen them kill their prey?" 

"What do they feed upon?" asked Oto. "I never saw 
them do any thing but fly from one rush to another." 

"They hunt the daddy-longlegs," answered the boy. "I 
have watched them many a time. Poor old daddy would be 
sailino- round enjoying himself, when along would come the 
dragon-fly ; and in another instant the daddy would be lying- 
headless on the veranda, and master dragon-fly would fly off. 
picking his teeth, and looking out for another victim." 

" There is Menka-koshi," said their guide, pointing to a 
rocky hummock ahead of them. "We can sail all round it, 
but can only land in one place." 

" I see there is a regular corduroy road built to the summit," 
said Johnnie. " I do not believe the Ainos ever made that." 

Upon reaching the landing-place, they anchored the craft, 
went on shore, and began to ascend the road, which meandered 
spirally round the fort. ^ 

The steps were not made of timber, but were formed by 
splitting out layers of rock : this had evidently been done a 
long time ago, the pathway in some places being obstructed by 
large trees. 

The travellers toiled along the ascent, and finally reached 
the top, which proved to be of solid rock, and as flat as a table. 

" This was levelled by skilled masons," said Oto. " I believe 
it was made by the Japanese general, who centuries ago con- 
quered some of the wild tribes in this part of Yezo. You see 
there are the marks of the chisels on this rock." 

" I suppose this was fortified to command the lake," said 
Johnnie. " Even now it would be a good place on which to 
build a battery." 



1 62 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The entire mound was a mass of granite, sparsely covered 
with black soil. 

The Aino rose and wild honeysuckle illuminated the other- 
wise bare places, and clothed the mountain with a glory, the 
fragrance of which delighted the foreigners, and made even 
the natives sniff and exclaim, — 

" Pirika ! Pirika ! " (good ! good !) 

" Menka-koshi, who was reported to have made this road, 
and to have fortified this hill, was a great chief," said Habo. 
" He was very tall, and as strong as a bear." 

" He must have been, to have done what we see here," said 
Fitz. " My opinion is, that the story was made out of whole 
cloth. Down in Massachusetts we have rocks on which folks 
say Masconomo used to stand when he addressed his tribe. I 
do not believe old Masco ever went within five miles of some 
of them. It is very easy to invent a legend for a locality, and 
I guess that is what the Ainos have done in this case." 

They returned to the settlement, and strolled round it, chat- 
ting with the Japanese ; all of whom spoke as though they were 
in exile, and said they should be glad when they got back to 
their country. 

"It is quite home-like to see nurse-girls walking about with 
children on their backs," said Oto. " One might almost fancy 
himself near Hakone." 

As they were talking they heard a cry, — 

" Ah, honkewa Osaka Adzuchi mac hi Nobuya7na kaden no 
senkintan /" 

(" Patent thousand-gold medicine, the secret of which No- 
buyama of Adzuchi Street, Osaka, has inherited.") 

" Hat ! " cried Johnnie. " What ! are the senkintan men 
up here ? " 



IN THE WILDS OF YEZO. 1 63 

They turned a corner, and beheld one of the most extraor- 
dinary sights they had seen in Yezo. 

An Old Aino, who had been drinking sake and offering 
inaho until he was overcome with the wine and religious 
observance, had been startled from his slumber by the cries 
of two sleek-looking Japanese, who, mounted on high cloo-s, 
were industriously visiting the settlers, in order to vend the 
celebrated patent nostrum known as senkintan (thousand-gold 
medicine). These Indefatigable fellows swarm all over the 
empire, travel in couples, and chant the virtues of their panacea 
as follows : — 

'' A-a, sono mata kusurino kono wa! A-a, dai-ichi hi-i wo 
totonoye, tan-seki, riuin, shiyoku-atari ; a-a, dzutsu to inemai 
tachi-gtirami ; a-a shorn mushibara-itami ni shiyoku-dzukayer 

(" Oh ! these are the properties of this medicine ! It makes 
the stomach and the spleen strong. It is very good for hoarse- 
ness and colds, pyrosis, and the result of eating decayed food. 
It cures headache, giddiness, and dizziness on awakening, and 
is valuable for children's diseases.") 

" What is the old man mad about ? " Inquired FItz of Habo. 
"He is jabbering to that boy as though he were out of his 
mind." 

The boy referred to was carrying three rods used by the 
Aino in a game played by throwing a hoop into the air and 
catching it on a stick.' 

Habo listened to the conversation between her countrymen, 
then said, — 

"The old gendeman Is very pious, and has been making 
many inaho and drinking a great quantity of sake!' 

" Yes, he looks like It," said FItz with a nod. 

' Vide cover. 



IN THE WILDS OF YEZO. 165 

"He said," continued Habo, "'This is a very annoying 
thing. What do those Japanese mean by yelling in my ear 
when I am sleeping?' He hopped round in order to show his 
displeasure ; and the boy laughed, and returned, ' Oh ! those 
men sell a wonderful thing. It cures all diseases. You had 
better try some of it.' — ' Foolishness ! Foolishness ! ' replied 
the old fellow. 'There is only one medicine fit for an Aino, 
that is sake! " 

The senkintan-Y&nd&YS listened to the foregoing with 
amused faces, then turned, took opposite sides of the street, 
raised their umbrellas above their heads, and went off at a 
swinging trot, crying, — 

" Ak, honkewa Osaka Adzuchi mac hi Nobuyama kaden no 
senkintan ! " 

"They beat everything," said Oto. "Who ever expected 
to find senki7itan men in this out-of-the-way place ? " 

" Where do they come from ? " inquired Johnnie. 

"From Osaka," said the young doctor. "A quack named 
Nobuyama concocted a mixture of starch, catechu, thuya, and 
licorice, which he flavored with elecampane, peppermint, cloves, 
and camphor, and made into little cakes divided into twenty 
portions, covered with tinfoil, each square being a dose. 
Minute directions accompany the package, and the article is 
used externally as well as internally. It has never been known 
to kill any one, and many people have imagined it has cured 
them of serious ailments. In order to advertise it, he hired 
hundreds of good-looking youag men, and furnished them with 
a uniform consisting of handsome kimono'' (coats), "oiled- 
paper cloaks, leggings, high clogs, and umbrellas bearing his 
sign, — two circles interlocked. Each man carries a little 
portmanteau decorated with the trade-mark. This receptacle 



i66 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



contains several dozen packages of the senkintan. Twenty 
squares sell for ten cents, and forty for twenty. The pedlers 
chant their cry of ' A- a! honkewa Osaka' etc., and make poor 




flotact. 



^a l/e 6 c^" '-Se-tx -hit It, -Zct I t, (• 
■ - J-uit/ a n 



ignorant people curious to buy. . Now, they say his emissaries 
have not only gone to China, but are thinking of proceeding 
to America and England." 



IN THE WILDS OF YEZO, 1 67 

"Well," remarked Fitz, "one more patent medicine won't 
hurt us. We shall have pictures of the inventor all over the 
country, with his signature in Japanese, and the legend, ' Yours 
for pelf, Nobuyama.' But, boys, do look at that old Aino ! " 

The savage had sunk upon his mat, seized a stick, and was 
whittling out an inaho. muttering as he did so, as though he 
could scarcely contain his anger ; while far off, up the hillside, 
the boys heard the cry, — 

''Ah. honkewa Osaka Adzuchi mac hi Nobuyama kaden no 

senkintan / " 

The next day they started for Hokuyak-bets, and, after a 
weary journey in the rain, arrived at their Aino home. They 
found the Professor quite recovered from his accident, and 
ready to start for their long tramp through the mountain chain 

of North Yezo. 

All useless articles were packed, and sent to Hakodate ; 
and the travellers set out in light marching- order. 

Chief Setta-eye and a number of his people accompanied 
them several miles upon the way, until they emerged upon a 
level plateau from which they had a grand view of Ishikari 
Mountain, one of the highest in Yezo. 

When he prepared to take leave of them he wept, and 

said, — 

" One does not know what there is in store for him. A 
short time ago I was ignorant of your existence, now my heart 
is heavy because I am about to part with you. Accept this 
poor present : it is all I have to give you." 

After speaking, he waved his hands in his grand fashion, 
then abruptly turned and walked homeward, his people follow- 
ing him without adding a word. He had refused all offers of 
payment, and would not even take Fitz's watch, which the boy 



i68 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZD. 



urged him to accept, and which must have been a great tempta- 
tion to him. 

The present he gave to the Professor proved to be a carved 
sa^e-st'ick, an object that few Ainos care to part with, and which 
the recipient treasures to this day. 

" Mount Ishikari must have once been a volcano," said 
Johnnie, as they rested in a dry spot, and looked at the object 
referred to. 




IN SIGHT OF MOUNT ISHIKARI. 



" I believe it is now a reservoir," said Fitz, " and that it has 
burst. It seems to me, the Ainos follow the water-courses : we 
ought to have brought rubber-boots." 

"It is no use grumbling, brother," said Sallie. "This 
scenery is wonderfully romantic. The gold, brown, green, 
purple, violet, blue, vermilion, and orange tones of the moun- 
tain peaks and spurs are perfectly glorious." 

" Pooh ! " said Fitz, " one would think you were describing a 
fashionable bonnet. F^or my part, 1 think the scene is horribly 
savage." 



IN THE WILDS OF YEZO. 1 69 

" What ? With those telegraph-wires bisecting it ? " she 
said. " No, brother, we are still within range of civilization, 
and cannot call this place savage with yonder signs of prog- 
ress disfiguring the view." 

" I suppose you would like to make the Japanese put them 
underground," muttered Fitz. 

They saw several bears, and herds of deer, but did not meet 
with any adventure worth recording ; their road lying in deep 
gorges and along hillsides overhanging terrific precipices. It 
was downright hard tramping, notwithstanding which Mrs. 
Jewett and Sallie were always to the fore, and kept the others 
in a good temper by their singing and cheerful demeanor. 

They were fifteen days going from Hokuyak-bets to Daiko- 
tan, which proved to be a fishing-village inhabited by a mixed 
population of Japanese and Aino. 

The Professor expected to meet the man-of-war ; but the 
ship had not arrived, so they had to put up with somewhat 
rough accommodation, and amuse themselves as best they 
could. 

One day they took a boat, and went out to see the shibe 
(bonito) fishing. A great number of craft had surrounded a 
sciiool of shibe, and driven it into a huge net, the floats of 
which were made of long poles, of a peculiar kind of pine as 
light as cork. 

The scene was very exciting, — the fishermen securing the 
bonito with their boat-hooks, and throwing them kicking and 
squirming into the bottoms of their boats. Sometimes a huge 
fish would spring clear out of the water ; and many of them 
leaped the floats, and regained their freedom. 

After waiting several days at Daikotan, the travellers started 
for Soya on the western coast of Yezo, where they had an 



IJSI THE WILDS OF YEZO. IT I 

opportunity of witnessing the Ainos hunting seals. The men 
speared the fish just as they had done in the south ; but the 
seals proved to be much larger, and had a peculiar formation on 
the ends of their tails. This the Professor pronounced to be 
the result of a disease. The Aino called them onetsufu, and 
they were between six and seven feet long. 




NORTHERN SEAL. 



There was a Japanese artist staying at Soya, who gave the 
young Americans some very clever sketches he had made of 
the manners and customs of the Yezo-jin. One represented 
a party of fishermen setting out to capture seals in the 
winter. In the foreground were three mats, two of which were 
occupied by men making inaho. A woman was passing a spear 
out of the window of a snow-covered hut, and her husband 
was receiving it, while another Aino was evidently joking with 
them. Three fishermen were preparing the boat for launching, 



1/2 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

and were raising their hands as though pointing to seals upon 
the ocean. 

" These will be nice to show to our friends at home," said 

Sallie. 

On the second morning of their stay at Soya, Habo awoke 
them in great haste, saying, — 

" Please rise. The man-of-war is in port, and the boat will 
soon come on shore. To-day you will be able to start for 
Hakotan in the island of Karafuto." 

They rose quickly, and, before they were dressed, heard 
Capt. Imadate saying, — 

"Where are you all? I am anxious to remove you from 
this savage country." 

" Here we are," cried Fitz, putting his head out of the 
window. "We have had a splendid time, — used to rise at one 
o'clock in the morning, lived among the Ainos, went bear- 
hunting, and were hunted in return, and saw them kill and 
worship the kami hokuyak!' 

The whole party then quitted the hut, and welcomed the 
captain, who said, — 

"It is really wonderful that you are all alive. I have lots 
of letters for you, and some telegrams from Tokio. Come on 
board, and enjoy a good breakfast." 

After they had chatted a while with their friend, the three 
Aino chiefs, who had been their guides, advanced with Habo, 
and said through her, — 

"We have now delivered you safely into the hands of 
the government officials: nothing remains for us but to say 
saramba " (good-by). " May you have a very pleasant journey, 
and return safely to your native place ! " 

Having thus spoken they clasped their hands, then raised 



174 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

them to the tops of their heads, and gradually brought them 
downward ; as they did so, uttering their strange, dog-like cry. 

"They are only animals anyhow," said Capt. Imadate, con- 
temptuously regarding the guides, who were shedding tears. 

" No," answered Mrs. Jewett : " they are men, with gentle, 
kindly natures, and warm hearts. What can we do, captain, to 
reward these good people ? " 

" I will send them a tub of sake,'' he answered. "That will 
make them perfectly happy." 

" I would prefer to give them a barrel of sugar," said the 
lady. 

" Just as you say, madam," answered the captain. 

Habo was paid a gratuity ; and the old fellows received their 
reward, which they promised to share with Setta-eye. 

The last the Jewetts saw of their guides was the latter 
ascending the mountains, homeward bound : the men carrying 
between them the barrel of sugar, slung on a bearing-pole, 
and Habo weeping like a child. 

" Yes," said Fitz. " Mother was right : all the world likes 
candy." 

The travellers embarked on board the man-of-war, where 
they found a Russian officer, who had been sent by his govern- 
ment to acts as interpreter to the party. 

In half an hour they were steaming across the strait called 
by foreigners La Perouse, in honor of the great navigator of 
that name. 



KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 175 



CHAPTER X. 

KARAFUTO (SAGHALIN). 

^^ Many so-called savages are much more gentle and noble than the mass of 
people who are termed civilized, Amo7ig the former are to be classed the five ti'ibes 
that inhabit the island of Karafidoj viz.^ the Aino, the Samelenko, the Oroko, the 
Colletske, and the Santanr — Memoirs of La Pkrouse. 

THE Russian interpreter (Lieut, Ivan Koski) was, like 
many of his countrymen, an accomplished English scholar : 
he therefore proved a valuable addition to the party. 

As the ship steamed across the strait, he said to the Pro- 
fessor, — 

" You will find the natives of this island very different from 
those of Yezo. Of course you are aware that in 1875 Sagha- 
lin, or, as the natives call it, Karafuto, was ceded to us in return 
for the Kurile Islands, which are valuable for fishing-stations. 
There has been a great deal written and said about our forcing 
Japan to make the exchange, while the truth is, the benefit was 
mutual. We have long desired to have a refuge for our ships 
off the coast of Tartary, and Japan has wished to have a legal 
title in the Kurile Islands ; besides which, out of the twenty- 
three hundred natives in Karafuto, only a very few on the west 
coast are Aino, the others being the Samelenko who live on 
the western side, the Santan and Colletske who occupy the 
extreme north and who wander all over the country, and the 
Oroko who inhabit the eastern shore. The centre of the island 
is a chain of mountains, only visited by the natives when hunt- 



176 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

ing. I have been stationed here for three years, and have 
made a study of the habits and customs of the people." 

While they were chatting, Capt. Imadate approached, and 
bowing said, — 

" The current runs at terrific speed through this strait. 
Though it is only thirty-eight miles, as the crow flies, to 
Hakotan, we shall travel twice that distance before we make 
the. harbor. Have you read your letters yet. Professor?" 

" Yes," answered the gentleman. " I am exceedingly grati- 
fied with the communication from Tokio. I am requested to 
make a report on the condition of the Ainos who remain in 
Karafuto. It is very pleasant to know that the Russian Gov- 
ernment has not only agreed to my doing this for Japan, but 
has detailed Lieut. Koski to accompany us." 

They conversed until dinner-time, then descended to the 
cabin, and, for the first time in many weeks, enjoyed a meal 
cooked in American fashion. 

Fitz could scarcely contain his delight when he saw a loaf 
of bread ; and, upon the ice-cream being served, he nudged 
Oto, and whispered, — 

*' Isn't this ichi-ban ! " (number one.) 

It was about seven o'clock when they steamed into Hakotan 
Bay, a small harbor on the south-western shore of Karafuto. 

" There is our flag ! " exclaimed Lieut. Koski, pointing to 
the right. " That building is the Government House. I hope 
you will land, and be my guests until we leave here." 

The Professor accepted his hospitality ; and that night the 
party slept on Russian beds, placed upon flues that ran through 
the centre of the chambers. 

At sunrise they looked across the water, and saw the Cape 
of Shiranoshi. 



KARAFUTO {SAGBALIN). 



177 



"We tried to make a settlement there about twenty-eight 
years ago," said the heutenant, "but it \\as a iailure. At that 
time we were at war with England and France, and the ships 
of those nations swarmed in these waters. When we acquired 
Saghalin, we placed officials in all the principal ports, ap- 
pointed a governor, worked the coal, and utilized the island as 
a penal settlement." 

" Don't the natives object to that?" inquired Fitz. 








HAKOTAN BAY. 



"We have never asked them," said the officer. "On our 
taking possession, nearly all the Ainos went to Sapporo in 
Yezo ; and those that remained are, as you will see, more like 
Tartars. Here come my servants." 

He pointed to two native girls who were returning from 
market, carrying neat baskets made of birch-bark. Their 
mouths and hands were not tattooed, and their faces were 
verv unlike those of the Ainos of Yezo. Their costumes were 
different, being of Japanese cotton and of deer-skin, orna- 
mented with brass buttons. They wore leggings of bear-skin, 
and high boots that reached to their knees. 



178 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" I see they comb their hair," said Sallie, " and wear double 
earrings. Indeed, they are entirely different from the people 
whom we have hereto seen." 

Mrs. Jewett was much interested in the girls, and put many 
questions to the interpreter. 




AINO GIRLS. (KARAFUTO). 



They invited the ladies to visit the kitchen, and showed 
them a Russian cooking-stove, in which they evidently took 
great pride. 

•* What are those garments hanging on poles ? " asked Fitz, 
who had followed his mother and sister. 



KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 



179 



" Those are our winter furs and belts," replied one of the 
girls. "We suspend our clothes in the smoke to preserve 
them. The brass ornaments and buttons for our dresses and 
belts are bought in Tartary : we get them from the Samelenko." 
"They wear high-necked dresses with funnel-shaped 
sleeves, " said Fitz. " It appears to 
me that these Karafuto Ainos have J ^^^-r^ 

a good deal more style about them ^^ i 

than the Yezo-jin." \. 6 

The ship remained one day at / 6 

Hakotan, then started at sunrise 





AINO GIRL'S GIRDLE. 



AINO GIRL'S DREES. 



for Kogoho, where the Ainos were going to hunt bears. 

Kogoho was about two miles and a half from Shiranoshi, 
and proved to be a mere open roadstead. 

The gentlemen of the party landed in the whale-boat, and 
visited the fort, which was a most interesting relic of an ancient 
race. The walls were well built of very large stones, and 
formed three sides of a hollow square ; the front being guarded 
by a portion of the rock on which the fort was erected. 

"What pains they must have taken to construct this!" 
remarked Johnnie. " Why, they have actually cut a moat out 
of the solid rock on the three sides of the wall ! " 

"Yes; and it is deep too," said Fitz. "This was never 
made by Ainos." 

" That is my opinion," remarked Oto. 



i8o 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"What do you think, lieutenant?" inquired the Professor. 

" That it was made by Tartars. . I beheve at one time this 
island belonged to Tartary." 

While they were conversing, two men and a boy approached 
them, and asked if they would like to go bear-hunting. The 
men were middle-aged, and were clothed in skin robes, more or 
less ornamented with brass. Unlike the Yezo Ainos, they wore 
boots and leggings ; and their hair was not shaggy, and bore 







'---^'^^^^sjss^i^^i:^^^ 




^j^-iiiH^^J^'^^^^S^ 



K030H0 ANCIENT FORT. 









marks of the comb. The boy was simply costumed in a bear- 
skin coat, and carried a fish-spear. 

" There is a bear up in the mountains," said the elder of 
the hunters, who was armed with a bow and arrows. " His 
retreat is not far from here." 

As the travellers had their rifles with them, they decided to 
accept the invitation. 

After climbing some high rocks, they found themselves in 
some "bad land" sparsely covered with gnarled and dwarfed 
trees. 



KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 



i8i 



The climate of Karafuto is, in summer, very dry ; and the 
dead leaves do not decay, as in some countries, but accumulate 
in holes and recesses where they mat into peat-like layers that 
are perfect pitfalls to the unwary. 

Fitz sank nearly up to his chest in a hole, the surface of 
which looked like the surrounding ground. The Ainos laughed 







^S^ 



AIKO HUNTCRS (KARAFUTO). 



at his mishap, and lifted him out, at the same time informino- 
their visitors that sometimes people had altogether disappeared 
in such hollows, and were smothered. 

" I believe that one goes right through to the West Indies," 
said the merry boy. "After this I am going to be cautious 
where I step." 

They found the bear in the hands of six Ainos, who, while 
their friends had gone, had contrived to drive the brute into 
a pitfall, and to capture it alive. When they first saw the 



l82 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

creature it was being carried by four Ainos, who had fastened 
its Hmbs to stout saplings and tied a hide rope round its neck. 
In conveying the poor beast, it hung head downwards ; and it 
was evidently suffering great pain. 

Upon beholding the travellers they deposited their burden 
right side up on the ground, and sat upon the ends of the 
poles, in order to keep it from moving. 

"What are you going to do with it?" inquired the lieu- 
tenant. 

The chief hunter saluted, and replied, — 

" We were told that some foreign gentlemen were coming 
here to hunt bears. As it is very difficult to find them just 
when you want to do so, we thought we would capture this 
alive, and bring it down to the fort, so that the strangers could 
shoot it at their leisure," 

As he spoke, he thrust a stick between the jaws of the bear 
to rouse the animal from its lethargy. 

The Professor said his party did not desire to hunt in that 
fashion ; hearing which, the second hunter grasped the animal 
by the ears, and the chief proceeded to saw off its teeth in 
order to keep it from injuring people, it being destined for 
sacrifice at the festival of lyoniante. 

The foreigners entered a hut which was built much after 
the fashion of those in Yezo. Over the fire was a large iron 
pot filled with bear-flesh broth, flavored with various herbs that 
gave out a medicinal odor. One of the w^omen dished this 
mess in a wooden vessel that had two ear-like handles deco- 
rated with the conventional wave pattern. 

"Are they going to ask us to chip in and take tiffin with 
them?" whispered Fitz to the lieutenant. "I don't hanker 
after such diet." 



1 84 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"It is really very good when you are used to it," replied 
the Russian. " See, they are bringing in their dogs to enjoy 
the meal." 

At that moment two girls entered with puppies on their 
backs. It was comical to see the little things play with their 
attendants' earrings, and to hear the girls address them as they 

would children. 

The Professor, who always en- 
joyed novel entertainments, seat- 
ed himself on the matted floor, 
and said to his sons, — 

" Now, boys, try and eat for 
the sake of politeness. Nothing 





COOKING POT. 



WOOD BOWL FOR FOOD. 



pleases a host so much as to find his guests partaking freely of 
what has been provided for them. Although this stew smells 
rather herby, I have no doubt it tastes good." 

The boys did not " enthuse much," and, when they were 
served, placed their bowls of food upon the ground, and encour- 
aged the puppies to approach them. The Ainos ate their food 
with hashi (chop-sticks), and made a great noise over the 
process. 

The Professor manfully attacked his portion, and, after 
emptying his bowl, put it forward for a second helping ; as 
he did so, beaming upon their host, and saying to the lieu- 
tenant, — 



KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 



185 



"Tell them I consider It very good. I admire the Same- 
lenko, and I enjoy this soup." 

After a while his chopsticks moved slower and slower, he 
began to examine his food suspiciously, and finally he hur- 
riedly rose, and quitted the hut, followed by his sons and Oto. 

"What is the matter, sir?" Inquired 
the latter, while Johnnie and FItz re- 
garded their parent with great anxiety. 

He motioned the boys not to follow 
him, and when he rejoined them he was 
exceedingly quiet. 

" What Is the matter ? " Inquired 
Lieut. Koski, who just then came out 
of the hut, wiping his lips as though he 
had enjoyed his repast. " Was the food 
too much for you ? " 

" Yes, it was," frankly answered the 
gentleman. " The atmosphere of the hut 
was very close, and I must say the in- 
gredients of the stew were somewhat 
startling." Then turning to his sons he 
continued, " You appear to have liked It, 
boys." 

FItz looked slyly at his brother, 
noticing which his fsther demanded, — 

" Well, sir, what amuses you ? " 

" We ate ours by proxy, sir," demurely answered the boy. 
" I could not bring myself to touch any of that composition." 

" It was a rash act on my part," said the Professor. " I 
suppose after a while one might get used to such diet, but my 
first experience has not been encouraging." 




DOGS' NURSES. 



1 86 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

They returned to the shore, and, embarking on board the 
man-of-war, steamed along the coast ; which presented a succes- 
sion of rocky views, and proved the Heutenant's assertion that 
the island was a mountain chain. 

They anchored for a few hours at Kushunai, a good harbor, 
one hundred and eighty miles from Hakotan. They saw in the 
distance an extinct volcano, which the lieutenant informed them 
was called Horonobori, and was situated on the other side of 
the island. 

"We will visit it when we descend the eastern coast," said 
Capt. Imadate. " Kushunai is a famous place for raising 
sleigh-dogs. Would you like to go on shore ? There are no 
Ainos living to the north of this." 

The ladies asked if they could accompany the party ; and, 
upon being answered in the affirmative, they embarked in the 
ship's boat, and landed at the village, which was alive with dogs 
of all sizes and colors, and whose whining, yelping, and barking 
were deafening. Near every house was a hitching-post to which 
were tied a number of young animals, who tugged at their 
hide-ropes, and growled savagely at the Americans. 

** Why are those puppies fastened, while the big dogs have 
their liberty ? " asked Sallie. 

"They are being taugLt to work," replied the Russian; 
" The Ainos tie them to a bob-sled, which they place near some 
dried fish, that has been toasted to develop the odor : as soon 
as the puppies smell this, they tug and tug until they reach it, 
when the trainer rewards them with a few morsels of the food. 
The distance between the sled and fish is increased every day ; 
until finally they are taken several miles off, when, if they run 
home swiftly, they are well fed, and pronounced broken in, after 
which they have their freedom like adult dogs." 



1 88 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The visitors saw a woman feeding some puppies with dried 
hake and scraps of deer-fat. When they ate too fast she 
rapped them on the nose with a wooden spatula, and talked to 
them as though they were children. 

"What a loud-pattern kimono'' (coat) "that Aino wears!" 
said Fitz. " From whence do they get their cotton cloth ? " 




TRAINING SLEIGH-DOGS. 



"From Tartary," said the lieutenant, " They manufacture 
a cloth of a grass called inostie, which they bleach in the sun, 
then weave into a fabric termed tedrabe. It looks like Russian 
linen." 

" Don't they make any clothes of bark-fibre ? " inquired Fitz. 

"A few," was the reply; "however, the greater number of 
the garments are made of tedrabe." 

"That poor little boy leading the dog is blind, is he not?" 
remarked Sallie. 



KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 1 89 

"The puppy is leading him," answered the lieutenant. 
" He lost his sight through having varioloid, I believe the 
disease will ultimately exterminate these tribes." 

About four o'clock the travellers re-embarked on board the 
man-of-war, which steamed northward for Kitoshi, — a place 
famous for its mountain. They sighted the latter about sunset, 
and had a charming view of it, illuminated with the rays of the 
setting orb. 

" How glorious ! " exclaimed Sallie, clasping her hands. 

"Yes," said Fitz, imitating her manner, — "lemon-colored 
peaks trimmed with orange, vermilion, and brown, with a gold 
ruche : that is the way you will describe it, is it not, Sallie ? " 

" No, I shall not," she indignantly replied. " You do not 
appreciate color-harmony." 

They passed close into the shore, and could see millions of 
glittering spots in the streams that descended both sides of the 
mountain. 

"Those are salmon," said the lieutenant. "The Samelenko 
come down here, and spear great numbers of them. Farther 
up, the stream widens ; and we have established a cannery, run 
by exiles." 

" What ! " said Sallie. " Do Russians live here ? " 

The lieutenant smiled, and replied, — 

"Oh, yes! Some of our people are not satisfied with the 
government, and have tried to assassinate our emperor: so 
they have been sent hither to earn an honest living-." 

" But don't they freeze to death during the winter ? " 
exclaimed the horrified girl. 

"A few of them do," was the nonchalant reply. " If they 
had not been so savage, they would have remained at home. I 
have no pity for such people." 



'^^=c 



r^^i^mA III (;</.-' 




KARAFUTO {SAGHALIN). 191 

That evening they anchored in the harbor of Kitoshi, where 
they had to be carried on shore, on account of the tide being 
low, and the water very shallow. 

As they landed they saw a Samelenko standing on the 
shore, watching their approach. He had just rolled up a net, 
and secured it between some stakes, when he caught sight of 
the strangers. 

"Why, he wears his hair in a tail, almost like a Chinese," 
said Fitz. 

"Yes," said the lieutenant. "The Karafuto Ainos are a 
mixture of Samelenko and Yezo-jin ; while the Colletske, Oroko, 
and Santan are probably portions of Tartar tribes who have 
crossed from the continent." 

"What continent?" inquired Johnnie. 

"Tartary, over there," answered the lieutenant. 

The Samelenko, who had somewhat recovered from his 
astonishment, approached, and, quieting his dog with a gesture 
of his hand, asked what he could do for the straneers. 

The officer told him the travellers were from a very distant 
land, and that they desired to learn how the Samelenko lived, 
and to see their country. This puzzled the man, who, after 
thinking a while, replied, — 

"I do not understand your motive : however, you can see 
all you want to, only do not hurt any of our people. You can 
go wherever you like, but must look out for poisoned arrows 
and fox-traps." 

A tent was sent on shore ; and that night the party slept 
under canvas, and enjoyed a good rest on Samelenko land. 



kmiiMi 



mm ' 




^*r^ 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 19; 



CHAPTER XL- 

AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 

" Wommi was the last created, and is therefore the most perfect being. 
Althotigh she may commit any sin, it is not right to put her to deaths — Same- 
LENKO Proverb. 

THE next morning the travellers were up betimes, they 
hearing - the natives in earnest conversation outside 
their tent. 

" Come and see Barnum's show," said Fitz. " Here is a 
girl with a bear on her back, and a hunter in a fancy hat. 
How curiously they dress their hair ! One has it braided, and 
another wears a pug ; and, O Sallie ! do look at their earrings." 

The man in the hat proved to be a chief, who had been 
hunting in the mountains, and had captured a young bear, 
which his wife was carrying on her back. 

The lieutenant invited them to approach, then inquired 
where they had found the cub. 

" Up in the Kitoshi Mountain," answered the chief, who 
wore a sealskin hunting-coat, marked with peculiar white 
spots. " I killed the mother, and brought this little thing down 
to bring up until he is big enough to sacrifice." 

"These Samelenko worship the bear," said Lieut. Koski. 
"They look like Tartars, but have many Aino ways. Do you 
notice that woman carrying her child in a cradle ? Poor little 
wretches, their hands are bound, and they can only move their 
feet. When a woman is tired of nursing her child, she hangs 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



195 



it up from a beam in her hut. Would you like to see one of 
their winter residences ? " 

" Not till after breakfast, thank you," said the Professor. 
" They might wish us to take a meal with them." 

" The Samelenko speak a different language from the Ainos, 
do they not ? " asked Johnnie. 

"Very different," was the response. "And they can 
scarcely understand the Oroko, CoUetske, or Santan dialects. 




SAMELENKO HAT AND PILLOW. 



You see, these people must have come from Tartary. They 
dress like Northern Chinese, and, unlike the Ainos, wear hats. 
Before we took possession of this island, the four tribes used to 
laugh at the Ainos, because they were subjects to the Emperor 
of Japan ; the Samelenko, Colletske, Santan, and Oroko tribes 
always professing to be Tartar subjects. The women are really 
very clever and bright, and are so much esteeijied by the men 
that they never put them to death. They are good tailors, 
make all the garments, and those hats you see the men wear." 
" Of what are they made ? " inquired Fitz. 



196 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Of kada-h^irk split into threads, and stiffened after it is 
woven. The chiefs are very proud of those head-dresses, which 
can be folded up and carried in the bosom when not required 
for use. The women also make the long Chinese pillows, which 
are covered with cotton. Altogether, a Samelenko woman's 
position is not a bad one." 

" Do they ever bathe ? " inquired Johnnie. 

" I believe they wash their hands and faces every day," 




OUTSIDE OF U,>.DERGROU.nD HOUSE. 



answered their friend ; " though, as a rule, a little water goes a 
long way with them." 

"Come, boys," said Sallie, "breakfast is ready. I am 
anxious to get it over, and go and see the Samelenko in their 
homes." 

The meal was soon despatched, and at its conclusion the 
party set out to inspect the village. 

Nearly all the houses were well built, and showed a knowl- 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



197 



edge of carpentery which the travellers had never seen among 
the Ainos. There was an air of neatness about the dwellings, 
and in some an attempt at decoration. 

" That is an underground house," said their guide, pointing 
to what looked like some roughly trimmed timbers resting on 




INSIDE OF UNDERGROUND HOUSE. 



the top of a mound, in front of which was a sort of archway 
made of saplings. 

"You do not mean to say people live in that hole?" 
queried Johnnie. 

" Yes," was the reply. "It is intensely cold here in winter : 
so the natives select a hillock, like this one, and excavate a 
chamber in it, then cut a chimney in the centre of the roof, and 
cover it with timbers or bark. During five months of the year 



198 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

these habitations are buried in snow ; but even then, and spite 
of the severe frosts, they are warm and comfortable, while in 
summer they are cool retreats. Come and see how cosey they 
are inside." 

They entered, and found themselves in a square apartment 
lined with wood, stained brown with smoke, but very neatly 
kept. A high bench, covered with thick mats, extended round 
three sides of the apartment. 

The fireplace was a wooden frame, filled with ashes, set in 
the centre of the floor ; and on it was a large iron vessel con- 
taining water ; and suspended by an iron rod from the beam 
was the only cooking-utensil, a huge kettle holding about ten 
gallons. 

A sort of double sideboard supported sundry dishes, bowls, 
and wooden platters, attached to which was a box containing 

spoons, chop-sticks, and knives, 
and a wooden sieve for cleaning 
grain. 

The Professor examined the 
cooking-utensils, and remarked, — 
" These forms are very ancient ; 
the vessels appear to be made of hammered metal." 

"They all come from Tartary," said their guide. " I do not 
think there are a dozen Japanese articles in use among these 
people." 

"They have no inaho'' remarked Fitz. "Their heads are 
level. The Yezo-jin spend half their time whittling god-sticks. 
Do the Samelenko drink sake f" 

" They will drink any thing," was the answer. " They 
think whatever foreign stuff comes in bottles must be good. 
I know of a case where a whaling captain sold them a box 




IRON COOKING-POT. 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



199 



of aniline dyes, which they drank without any serious conse- 
quences." 

" Why, there is a samisen^' (i) said SalHe, " and some stone 
pipes" (3). 

"That instrument came from Tartary. Its head is covered 
with snake's-skin. They play it with an ivory picker (2). 




SAMELENKO GUITAR AND PIPES. 



The pipes are made of red stone, something like those carved 
by your Indians." 

There being little more to interest them in the underground 
dwelling, they took their leave, and strolled on to the beach, 
where they found a native repairing a canoe, which was hauled 
up beyond the tide-mark. 

"These craft are made by the Colletske," said the Russian. 
" They are the boat-builders of the island. If you notice, there 
are bone spikes instead of thole-pins ; and no metal is used 



200 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



in the construction of the canoes, which are flat-bottomed, and 
quite square in the stern. The natives only quit the shore in 
calm weather, and these craft are pulled or sailed to and from 
the coast of Tartary." 

Fitz critically examined the canoe, then said, — 

" This is a regular coffin. What are the sails made of ? " 




BOAT MADE BY COLLETSKE. 



"Of fish-skin," replied their friend. "They are worth a 
great deal to these poor people." 

At the request of the officer, the fisherman fetched a sail, 
which he unrolled for their inspection. 

" What fishes are these taken from ? " asked Johnnie. 

"Skates," was the reply. "They grow to an enormous 
size in these waters, and their skins are very tough." 

" I see they make the sculls spoon-shaped," said Fitz. 
"There is a hole bored through the swell near the handle. I 
wonder how they hit upon that idea." 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



20I 



" I suppose they bought their experience by practice," re- 
marked his father. " These people have no science." 

" Here comes our boat," said SalUe. " I see the sailors 
have taken down the tent." 

" Yes," said Capt. Imadate, who just then joined them : 
"we start for Wakee as soon as you get on board. You will 
probably land there to-night." 

The Japanese sailors were very handy, and had packed 
every thing neatly. 




SAIL MADE OF FISH-SKIN. 



" I do so dislike being carried ! " said Sallie : " it seems too 
bad to be treated like a child." 

"Well, you can neither wade nor swim here," said Fitz, who 
was mounted on the back of a Japanese sailor. " If you are 
so awfully squeamish, you ought to stay on board." 

His sister bit her lips, but did not make any further remarks. 

Upon reaching the vessel, the anchor was tripped ; and they 
proceeded along the coast, passing a place called Natuko, off 
which they saw a number of boats fishing. 



202 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The water being somewhat rough, it took longer than the 
captain expected to reach Wakee : so the travellers determined 
to stay on board all night. 

On landing the next morning, they were much tormented 
with flies and mosquitoes, which " fell upon the travellers," and 
almost drove them frantic : however, about noon a sea-breeze 
sprang up, and soon increased to quite a gale. This cooled the 
air, and carried the insect-pests towards the mountains. 

Wakee is only two miles and a half from Otsutaka-baaha, 
on the coast of Tartary ; but, as the water rushes through the 
strait at a tremendous pace, the passage is exceedingly danger- 
ous. The natives said, that at very low tide they could walk 
from Wakee to the opposite shore, and that in winter, when 
the strait was frozen, they went backwards and forwards in their 
dog-sleds. 

The visitors strolled about while their tent was being 
pitched, and presently came to a place where some millet was 
growing among a lot of high grasses that almost choked the 
crop. Two Samelenko were watching it, and a bird-rattle they 
had just erected to keep off the sparrows. 

One of them was dressed in a sealskin coat and kaba-\)2.x\i 
pants, and the other in deerskin. 

" Is not their hair slicked down ! " said Fitz. " I believe 
they wet it before they use a comb." 

As he spoke, a girl came by, carrying a load of wood on 
her back ; on seeing whom, another girl, who had been gather- 
ing a sort of wild grass for greens, called to her, — 

" Have you seen the savages?" (meaning the Americans.) 

When this was translated to the party, they laughed until 
their sides ached ; and presently the Professor exclaimed, — 

'* I wonder what that young lady considers civilization ? " 



204 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" I know, sir," said Fitz. " Her idea of a fine ^costume is a 
tanned deerhide dress, trimmed with pieces of stamped brass, 
bearskin leggings, cowhide boots, window-curtain earrings, and 
a load of wood that would tax the endurance of a mule. She 
evidently does not take much stock in us." 

When the tent was pitched, the ladies retired to take a 

little rest, and the gentlemen 
went for a walk in the coun- 
try. 

They found the land 
rocky and full of rivulets, 
across which were laid pieces 
of drift-wood and portions of 
trunks of trees that served as 
bridges. Nearly all of these 
were surmounted by otter- 
traps, those animals being a 
great annoyance to the Sam- 
elenko. In one place they 
found a salmon caught fast 
in the noose intended for 
the otter. 

" How is this ?" said 
Johnnie. "The fish was not 
taking a walk ? " 
** Certainly not," answered the lieutenant. " An otter had 
captured the salmon, and was crossing this timber, when it 
sprung the trap. Probably the head of the fish was in the 
noose", and the springing of the bow jerked it out of its 
captor's mouth." 

As they advanced they saw many traps, and in one place 




WAKEE GIRLS. 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



205 



beheld a fox gazing wistfully at two dried perch attached to 
the trunk of a tree. The beast was so intent upon the tempt- 
ing bait that he did not notice the intruders, or that there was a 
trap among the grass within a yard of his tail. After making 
two attempts to v-iimo the tree he backed, as though preparing 
to take a run, and touching the trap was caught by the tail, and 







HOINU. OTTER-TRAP. 



swung high in the air ; whereupon a native boy, who had fol- 
lowed the party, advanced, and killed the poor animal. 

There was very little to interest the visitors In the place ; 
and, when the wind ceased to blow, the mosquitoes and flies 
returned in such numbers that Mrs. Jewett declined to stay on 
shore. 

"There are fewer Insects at Hokobi," said Capt. Imadate. 



206 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" I was afraid you would not be able to stay here. This spot 
is quite famous for these pests." 

"Infamous, you mean, captain," suggested Fitz. "Mother 
seldom complains, as you know. Things must be unendurable 
to make her grumble." 

" I have another reason for going," said the captain. " I 




SAMELENKO FOX-TRAP. 



want to reach Hokobi before dark. The rocks there extend 
almost across to Tartary, and I would like to pass them during 
daylight." 

As soon as they reached the ship the latter started, and in 
two hours approached the passage between Hokobi and the 
main land. It was, as the captain had said, very narrow ; and, 
although the tide was high, the ship bumped perceptibly. 



208 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



They steamed into a little inlet, like a dock ; and the party 
remained on board until the morning, when they landed, and 
visited the village. 

The Samelenko were very hospitable, and invited them into 
their huts, in one of which a young woman dressed in a cotton 




SAMELENKO LADY AT HER TOILET. 



robe, lavishly decorated with tufts of cord and brass ornaments, 
was making her toilet. She used no bowl, but bent over a 
birch-bark basket filled with water. Having taken a mouthful 
of this, she squirted some of it on a huge wooden comb, then 
ran the latter through her luxuriant hair, repeating the opera- 
tion until her tresses were straightened out, when she smiled 
sweetly, and proceeded to braid them. 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 209 

"Have they no looking-glasses?" inquired Sallie. 

"They possess some few Chinese ones, made of metal" 
replied the lieutenant; "but they do not use them very much 
as they consider it is unlucky to see their own image." 
_ "What is yonder funny-looking thing on ^he shelf?" 
inquired Fitz. 

"That is the house-god," said the lieutenant. 

" He is a sweet bird, is he not ? " murmured Fitz. " What 




^^^yrf? 



SAMELE KO GOD AND GOD-HOUSE. 

a lovely mouth he has ! It is the nearest approach to an idol 
I have seen since I left Japan. I suppose that little wooden 
house IS intended for his residence." 

The owner of the image replied in the affirmative, and 
made an apology for the unfinished state of the imaee 
saying, — ^ ' 

" I broke my knife yesterday, when I was carvino- that • " 
adding, in a complacent manner, " if you come in a day or 
two, I will have it finished and put In the god-house." 

" Please tell him not to hurry on our account," said Johnnie 



2IO 



THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"It is about the worst attempt at carving we have met with. 
Ask him whom it is intended to represent." 

When this question was put to the man, he appeared to be 
puzzled, and finally owned that he did not know; then changed 
the conversation by saying, — 

"Would you like to see my storehouse?" 

" Certainly," said the Professor. 




:j^'fv 



SAWIELENKO STOREHOUSE. 



The Samelenko led the way to the rear of his dwelling, and 
pointed to a structure made of finished planks, mounted upon 
tree-stumps ; saying, — 

" It is very hard to dig holes in the ground here : so I 
selected a spot where the trees were thick, cut them off at 
one height, and placed cross-timbers on them. Then the 
Colletske men brought their tools, and built my noi^o for me. 
You see, the arched pieces of bark, laid on the tops of the 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



211 



Stumps, are to prevent the rats and mice from ascending to 
the platform." 

" Why do they put such heavy timbers on the shingles ? " 
inquired Sallie. 

" To keep them from being blown away, miss," answered 
their guide. '' The old chief 
wishes to know whether you 
would like to see some of 
his treasures." 

" Certainly," replied the 
Professor. " Has he any 
valuable curios ? " 

The man unfastened the 
door by pushing up the pan- 
el, then lifted out a bamboo- 
basket (i) lined with shibu- 
gami (tough red waterproof 
paper made in Japan). He 
untied the cord that secured 
the lid, and, raising the lat- 
ter, showed that the basket 
was full of sake. 

" I never heard of stor- 
ing wine in that fashion," said the Professor, 
does not leak out." 

" It is like a stone jar," said Oto. " The paper is thoroughly 
waterproof." 

The Samelenko showed them a bottle (3) made of the 
same material as the basket, and a wooden tray (4) manu- 
factured by the Colletske, from a curious streaked wood found 
in the swamps of Northern Karafuto. 




SAMELENKO TREASURES. 



" I wonder it 



2 12 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

Their host very generously offered them some of the wine, 
and, upon their dechning it, remarked, — 

"Then I will drink a little in honor of the god;" adding, 
" I hope you will have a safe journey back." 

" That is a hint for us to go," said Fitz. " There is not 
much to see in these places." 

The old man closed his storehouse, and saluted them by 
bowing and repeatedly stroking his beard. When they offered 
him some money he shook his head, and said he did not want 
such a thing : it never brought him any luck ; a whaling- 
captain once gave him a large piece of copper money for a 
boat-load of dried salmon, and, all the while he retained the 
coin, he had suffered from rheumatism. 

This was translated to Fitz, who roared with laughter, and 
said, — 

"These are true savages. Now I know why the sea- 
captains in Cromlech used to collect the big old copper 
pennies. They brought them out here, and invested them 
in dried fish." 

Mrs. Jewett and Sallie felt tired, so retired to the tent, leav- 
ing the gentlemen to take a stroll in the country. 

" We have a convict-establishment about a mile from here," 
said the lieutenant. "Would you like to walk over and 
inspect it ? " 

" No : I dislike to witness human misery," answered the 
gentleman. " No doubt the prisoners have broken your laws, 
or committed some crime that calls for their punishment ; but I 
do not desire to see them." 

" Oh ! " cried Fitz. " What is that under the tree ? A bow 
and arrow with a fish tied to It." 

" It is a Samelenko otter-trap," said the Russian. " Do not 



AMONG THE SAMELENKO. 



21 



go near It : the barb Is poisoned. When the otter seizes the 
fish, It pulls the trigger, and the arrow transfixes the poor 
brute." 

" Well, what with otter, fox, and bear traps," said Johnnie, 




SAMELENKO OTTER-TRAP. 



" 1 do not think walking In Karafijto is very healthy exercise. 
Come, suppose we return to mother and Sallie." 

The travellers camped out that night, and did not wake 
until late the next morning, when they embarked for Ishirao. 



2 14 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER XII. 

MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 

'■'■ If you wottld cross a rapid stream, do not attempt to row straight over^ You 
nntst go with, and not against, the water-god." — Samelenko Saying. 

THE man-of-war was nearly all day steaming from Hokobi 
to Ishirao, 

" Why are we thus delayed ? " inquired Sallie. 

" The current is very strong in this part of the strait, and 
our boilers are somewhat shaky," replied Capt. Imadate. " I 
shall have to hug the shore very closely, or we might come to 
grief. I've had some narrow escapes in these waters, the shift- 
ing sands being exceedingly treacherous/' 

As the vessel approached Ishirao, they saw the rocks 
cropping up, like teeth, right across the channel. 

" I shall anchor presently," remarked the captain : " we 
could not get round this point to-night, it being now dead low 
tide. Do you notice the Russian flag on the bluff to our 
right?" 

" Yes," answered the Professor : " they appear to be 
making good use of their acquisition. I find they have 
military stations on all these headlands." 

"Those are for the coast-guards, who keep a sharp look- 
out for runaway convicts," said Lieut, Koski, who just then 
came on deck. " Some of the rascals are always trying to 
escape, and we have to prevent them from crossing to the 
mainland." 








\ii\\ ilk .-L/H 



Ml" 






/V' 



t 



m^-'M 



J 



M 



2l6 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" What place is that, opposite us ? " asked Fitz. 

" That is Buiro, in Eastern Tartary," was the reply. " It is 
tan miles from here ; but, the current being exceedingly swift, 
the Samelenko, who embark from this place, generally land at 
an island called Waruke, that lies off Hokobi, or a little lower 
down, at Washifune, which is the nearest point between this 
island and the mainland." 




BOYS FISHING. 



The next morning the ladies decided to go on shore with 
the gentlemen : so the party embarked in the captain's gig, and 
were rowed up a little creek, in the mouth of which two boys 
were fishing. 

One of them, who was in a small canoe, wore his hair like 
an Aino, and was busily engaged driving the fish by agitating 
the water with two sticks. The other held the end of the net 
across the mouth of the creek, and jerked it in a peculiar 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 217 

manner, in order to keep the floats on the surface of the 
water. 

"That boy in the boat is of the Colletske tribe," said the 
Heutenant. "They look hke the Ainos, but are very much 
more intelhorent." 

.0 

The lads raised their net, which was half full of fish, and, 




SAMELENKO UNDERGROUND DWELLING. 



dragging it on shore, proceeded to string its contents upon long 
rushes, which they suspended from the neighboring bushes. 

" The Samelenko of this place live in underground houses," 
said their guide ; " the remarkable thing being the stone 
foundations of the structures, and the absence of the usual 
fireplace in the centre of the room." 

The party entered one of the dwellings, which, though it 
smelled like a smoke-house, was tidily kept. 



2i; 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"Their carpenter-work pleases me," said Sallie. "Do you 
notice how nicely that double table is made ? They have iron 
axes and knives, porcelain bottles and jars, and a little fireplace 
with a pan over it, the same as you see in Japan." 

In one house they found a woman amusing her baby, who, 

lashed in his cradle, was 
suspended from a curious 
apparatus hung from the 
roof. His mother was 
talking to him, and he 
was laughing as though 
he enjoyed what she said. 
" How long do they 
keep their children but- 
toned up in those con- 
trivances?" inquired Fitz. 
"Until they are four 
years old," answered the 
lieutenant. 

" What ! " cried the 
boy, " do you mean to 
tell me that they are thus 
restrained until they are 
that age ? You would not 
keep an American baby in such a machine for ten minutes. 
How do they learn to walk ? " 

" That child is now practising," replied the Russian. "He 
cannot go very far, and his mother always knows where he is. 
They seldom cry, and are very sweet-tempered and gentle." 

" Well, that sort of board and lodging would break a young 
American citizen all up," said the boy, critically regarding the 




SAWIELENKO BABY. 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 219 

little Samelenko, who was shuffling about on an oval piece of 
wood placed beneath its feet. " They once put me in a baby- 
jumper; but I broke the cord, and got away." 

"O mother! isn't this baby cunning ? " said Sallie to her 
parent, who just then entered. " Please, Lieut. Koski, ask the 
woman if I may take him out of his> cradle." 

" Off his plank, you mean," said Johnnie. " I think this is 
one of the most comical sights we have seen since we left 
home." 

The woman said the child would feel uncomfortable if she 
unfastened him before night-time, and begged they would ex- 
cuse her from doine so. 

" Give him some candy, sis," said Fitz : " he will like that." 
The young lady felt in her pockets, and presently brought 
out a bag containing peppermint-lozenges, one of which she 
put in the child's mouth. 

The little fellow continued to smile for a few seconds, then 
spat out the candy, and set up a dismal howl. 
"What is the matter?" inquired Mrs. Jewett. 
" It set my mouth on fire ! " cried the youngster, as the tears 
streamed from his eyes. " I'm burning." 

His mother gazed on him with alarm, then caught him, 
cradle and all, to her bosom, and, after kissing the terrified 
one, said, — 

" Oh, my poor child ! what have they done to you ? " 
In a few moments he ceased his noise, and began to lick 
his lips, then hunted round for the rejected lozenge. 

" I guess he is all right now," said Johnnie. " It scared 
him at first, but I thought he would be converted after the 
first taste." 

The mother examined the candy, and tasted it, after which 



2 20 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

she passed it to her husband, who smelt it suspiciously, and 
said, — 

" I believe it is dangerous ! I never eat any thing that I 
am not sure about." 

When this was translated, Fitz said to his father, — 
" He is a wise man. Don't you think so, sir ? " 
The Professor shook his finger at him, and replied, — 
" I do not wish to be reminded of my imprudence." 
" I did not mean the stew, sir," said the irrepressible. 
Mrs. Jewett, who was laughing at them, said, — 
" Here comes Capt. Imadate. I suppose it is time for us to 
go on board again." 

" You are quite right, madam," answered the commander. 
"The tide is favorable for passing through the shoals, and I 
want .to reach Tamurao before dusk. It does not do to make 
a port on this coast after dark." 

When they reached the beach, they found the tide coming 
in furiously between the sand-banks. 

"There are our young friends, the Samelenko and Colletske 
fishermen," said Johnnie. "What are they doing with that 
rope ? " 

At that moment a boy came rushing along the opposite 
sand-spit, shouting, and waving his hands, in order to drive a 
flock of snipe that flew before him. As the birds approached 
the boys with the rope, they half closed their eyes, then sud- 
denly whirled the cord, and knocked two of the snipe into the 
water. 

"Well, that beats every thing," cried Fitz. "I have heard 
of catching trout with a hammer, but never before knew any 
one who went sniping with a rope." 

They watched the lads catch a number of birds, then the 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 22 1 

party embarked on board the man-of-war. As they steamed 
along the shore, they noticed the strait was wider. 

'' We shall soon lose sight of Tartary," said the commander. 
"At Tamurao one can only see some islands that lie off the 
opposite coast, and a faint outline of the distant mountains." 

It was quite dark when they entered Tamurao Harbor, — a 
sort of channel worn between two points of low land, on the 




NOVEL METHOD OF CATCHING SNIPE. 



extreme ends of which lights were hoisted for the guidance of 
the man-of-war. 

It being too late to land, the travellers passed the evening 
in writing and reading. 

Early the next morning Lieut. Koski summoned the boys, 
saying, — 

"There is going to be a funeral on shore: would you like 
to witness it ? " 



222 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Certainly," answered Fitz. " Can Sallie go too ? She 
always likes to attend all such affairs." 

" I think she might," was the reply, " though you will not 
witness a very impressive ceremony." 

Breakfast was hastily served ; and the party landed, but they 
could not discover any signs of a village. 

"The settlement is about a mile off," said the lieutenant. 
" I suppose you do not mind walking." 



^^Biag» 




PORT TAMURAO. 



" I reckon we will have to, as I do not see any hacks 
round," said Fitz, " I think that the family ought to have 
sent us conveyances." 

The Professor frowned ; and Fitz, taking the hint, ceased 
making fun. 

The road lay through a wooded district, swarming with 
mosquitoes and flies, which, as usual, settled in clouds upon the 
foreigners' varments. 

" There will be another funeral before we get through 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 22 r 



with this expedition," said Fitz. " There won't be much of my 
remains to bury : these horse-stingers are carrying me off 
piecemeal." 

Oto, who was of a very inventive turn, made fly-flappers of 
some long, silky grass, and presented them to the ladies. 

" I never thought of that," said Fitz, as he cut some of the 
grass for himself. " Oto, you shall have a medal. Now we 
can get even with these 
pests." 

Tamurao was a mis- 
erable affair, consisting 
of a few straggling huts, 
and the cemetery, a small 
enclosure behind the 
chief's residence, in which 
also stood a shed contain- 
ing his provisions. 

"I do not see the 
grave, " remarked John- 
nie. 

Lieut. Koski pointed 
to a little hut (A) built of pine-boards, that had been recently 
erected near the storehouse (B), and said, — 

" The woman was interred under that structure." 

" Was ? " queried Johnnie. " I thought we were coming 
to a funeral." 

"These Samelenko bury their dead before they hold the 
funeral-service," replied the lieutenant ; " that is, they bury 
the women, but put the men up in the mountains." 

" Your statement is most interesting," said the Professor. 
"These tribes seem to be very much like our Indians." 




SAMELENKO TOMB. 



224 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



Just then a man, carrying two wooden trestles and a lot of 
evergreens, came in sight, and, after gaping at the visitors, 
deposited his burden near the door of the hut. As he did so, 
he uttered a pecuhar sound, something Uke the Aino cry, and 
clapped his hands nine times. 

•'I guess that is the signal: the perform — I mean cere- 
mony — is going to begin," said Fitz. 

In a short time a procession appeared, bringing a slab of 
white wood, pointed on the top, and a board, on which was a 

tray containing a dried sal- 
mon and two leaves of to- 
bacco. 

There was no priest ; 
the chief attending to the 
spiritual as well as tem- 
poral wants of his people, 
and acting as master of 
the ceremonies. 

He invited the travel- 
lers to seat themselves 
where they could see the interior of the little hut ; then, taking a 
rude spade, entered the structure, and began to dig a hole. 
When this was about a foot and a half deep, he directed his 
people to bring in the slab, which he set upright exactly in the 
centre of the building. After it was fixed to his satisfaction, 
he tied six strips of a bark cloth, called mose, round it, laid the 
board in front of it, and placed the offerings, as shown in the 
picture. 

While he was doing this, his assistants had erected the 
trestles on each side of the door, and decorated them with 
the greenery. 




FUNERAL DECORATIONS. 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 225 



As soon as they had finished, all the tribe bowed, and 
remained with their faces to the ground for several moments, 
then rose, and hastily quitted the place. 

"The ceremony is over," said Lieut. Kdski. 

" What ! " said Fitz. " No prayers, no flowers, nothing 
but that old green stuff ! These Samelenko don't know 
how to conduct a funeral." 

The houses in Tamu- 
rao were differently con- 
structed from what the 
travellers had seen in 
other parts of the island, 
being built like Western 
log cabins, and roofed 
with sheets of bark kept 
in position by heavy limbs 
of trees. 

The lieutenant informed 
them that the edifices were 
erected by the Colletske, 
who, although nomads, 
were the most ino-enious 
of the five tribes. 

"To-morrow we shall 
start for Tonu," he said. "There you will see the Colletske: 
they are indeed smart, and can turn their hands to almost any 
thing." 

It did not take long to thoroughly inspect Tamurao ; the 
only object of interest shown them being a betch (coat-of- 
mail) belonging to the chief, who said it was made by the 
Colletske. It consisted of a leathern coat (i) covered with 




SAMELENKO WOMAN'S MONUMENT. 



226 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



plates of iron about six inches in length, and a helmet (2) of 
the same material. 

The man appeared to be very proud of the beick, and 
assured his visitors that it would protect him against any 
weapon. In order to prove his assertion, he hung it on a fence, 
and invited his people to discharge their arrows at it. 

" There ! " he exclaimed, as the last shaft glanced harm- 
lessly off. "Is not that a wonderful thing?" 




HOUSE IN TAMURAO. 



" Have these people ever seen fire-arms used?" asked the 
Professor. 

"Probably not," replied their guide. "Although they live 
close to the sea, they seldom go near it ; and until lately, when 
a foreign ship approached, they would run into the woods, and 
hide like frightened children," 

" I would love to show them the effect of a rifle-ball on that 
coat," said Fitz. " May I ask the chief to let me have a shot 
or two, sir ? " 

" Not on any account," replied his father. " I suppose you 
think it would be great fun to do what you ask." 



MOVING UP THE WESTERN COAST OF KARAFUTO. 227 



The boy looked very penitent, and replied, — 

" I thouofht it would be kinder humane to let them know 
what a decayed stick they are trusting to, sir. They are 
conceited about the thing now ; but, if I were to put three or 
four balls through it, they would wake up to the fact that they 
had better put their trust in Providence instead of in that betch. 
May I not have just one pop at 
it ? My act might save many 
valuable Samelenko lives." 

" No, sir : we will leave them 
in their ignorance," said his 
father. " They are under Rus- 
sian protection, and will, I dare 
say, never have an occasion to 
wear their suits-of-mail." 

As they bade the chief 
good-by, Fitz ruefully glanced 
at the garment, and mur- 
mured, — 

" I think it would be real 
missionary labor to convince 
the poor fellow that his tin 
suit would not stand fire. He will go on bragging about it 
until some drunken sailor opens his eyes with a revolver. 
Well, I suppose father knows best." 

About four o'clock the party returned to the shore, and, 
re-embarking on board the man-of-war, started for the Colletske 
village of Tonu, on the extreme north-west point of Karafuto. 

The water being very deep along the shore, the vessel kept 
quite close to the land, and the travellers saw some interesting 
sights. 




COAT-OF-MAIL, 



228 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF VEZO. 



"There is a Colletske canoe," said the lieutenant, pointing 
to a craft drawn up on the beach. "It is made of hard wood, 
and is much stronger than the boats used by the other tribes." 

" Look at those people leading a deer," cried Sallie, who 
was scanning the shore with her glass. " Both of them are 
armed with bows and arrows, and the woman has a quiver on 
her back." 

" These natives sometimes train the deer to draw sleds," 
said their guide. " However, they usually employ dogs." 

" The man is laughing, is he not ? and appears to be making 
fun of the woman," remarked Johnnie, who was also regarding 




COLLETSKE CANOE. 



the group through his glass. " Do you observe, his hair is 
combed back after the style of the Karafuto Ainos, and that he 
and the woman wear earrings like the people at Hakotan ? " 

" TheSe Colletske make or import those ornaments for the 
Ainos," said the Russian. " They and the Santan move all over 
the island, and, as soon as the strait is frozen over, cross to 
Tartary, where they engage in trade, and work at various 
handicrafts." 

" Look at those dogs tracking that canoe," said Fitz. " See, 
the man is staring at us, and not attending to his steering. 
They have nearly drawn his craft on shore." 

The Colletske seized the hide-rope to which his animals 
were hitched, and jerked it over one of the bone thole-pins, on 



230 THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

the starboard side of the craft. This brought the latter parallel 
with the shore, and caused the dogs to continue their proper 
course. 

The boilers of the man-of-war being out of order, the 
vessel could only steam about seven knots an hour, which rate 
of speed was not beyond the power of the animals. 

" We are going to have a race," cried Fitz. " Isn't this fun ? 
Modern science against five yaller dawgs." 

The Colletske evidently believed that he could keep pace 
with the vessel, and was on his mettle. He flourished his 
paddle, yelled, and waved his arms in a most comical fashion, 
urging the willing creatures at the top of their speed. 

"This is really exciting," said Sallie. " I hope the man will 
win : he isn't afraid to try what he can do." 

" GjD it, old gentleman ! " cried the usually sedate Johnnie, 
watching their opponent through a glass. " You are game." 

After racing for about a mile, during which the dogs had to 
swim several streams that intersected their course, the man 
suddenly checked them, and ran the bow of his craft on shore. 
• " Ah ! he has given up the contest," said. Mrs. Jewett. 

" Not a bit of it, mamma," cried Sallie, clapping her hands 
gleefully. " He is real smart. He is going to land his load." 

The Colletske did not take long to disembark his cargo, 
which consisted of a bale of dried salmon, covered with deer- 
skin. In another instant he was in the stern of his canoe, 
urging his dogs, and shouting defiantly at the man-of-war. 

" Bravo, Colletske ! " exclaimed the Professor. " You have 
true grit." 

The dogs soon drew the craft ahead, and were vanishing 
round the base of a promontory, when the tow-line parted, and 
the man went backward, heels over head, into the water. 



232 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

*' He'll be drowned ! he'll he drowned ! " said Sallie, as the 
fellow floundered about. " I'm so sorry ! " 

Every one felt greatly interested, even the Japanese sailors 
watching the native, and commenting upon his pluck. In a 
few seconds he stood upright, and began to wade after his 
canoe, and to shout, — 

" Yek,yekf'' ("Stop, stop!") 

By that time the man-of-war had gone ahead: however, 
nothing daunted, he secured his craft, which had drifted close 
in shore, whistled his animals to him, spliced his tow-line, and, 
once more embarking, urged them in the most frantic manner. 

" Good, good ! " cried the Americans. 

•' Yoi, yoi ! " (" First-rate ! ") shouted the Japanese. 

" I think I must order the chief engineer to increase our 
speed," said Capt. Imadate, glancing slyly at Sallie. " It will 
never do to allow that savage to beat us." 

" Or for us to burst the boilers," was the quick response. 
" Oh, I hope the Colletske will win ! " 

As she spoke, the canoe passed the vessel ; seeing which, 
the commander asked Lieut. Koski to hail the native, and tell 
him to come on board, and receive a present. 

The man, instead of accepting the invitation, kept right on, 
and in half an hour vanished round the point of Tonu. 

" I am glad he has beaten us," said Sallie. " I don't care ! 
people who are persevering and plucky ought to win." 

" You are right. Miss Jewett," said the captain. " Now we 
,are approaching shoal-water, and will have to run farther out 
from the shore, or get aground." 

When they were entering the harbor of Tonu, they saw the 
Colletske coming back at full speed. 

" Why does he return ? " inquired Johnnie. 



mii 




234 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"■ He is going to look after his cargo," said Fitz. " He is a 
deal too smart to leave it lying round loose on the shore." 

About eight o'clock that evening they came to anchor in 
the harbor of Tonu. 

" Where is the city ? " said Fitz. 

*' On the point to the right," replied Oto. 

" You call those five huts built on piles and those fish- 
flakes a city, do you ? " said the boy. " Well, I want to know ! " 

Oto smiled, then quietly replied, — 

" Do not get excited, Fitz. Out on the plains, I have heard 
two shanties and a hog-pen just as incorrectly designated." 

"That's so," drawled Johnnie. " Brother, as usual Oto has 
got the best of you." 

" Not a bit of it," was the sharp retort. " If, out West, 
they ever call such a small place a city, you will find a mayor 
living in one of the log huts, and the aldermen in the other ; 
and, if a settlement is not much at first, it soon develops its 
resources, — which is more than you can say of Tonu." 

Then Fitz, having vindicated the national reputation, walked 
forward whistling " America." 



WITH THE COLLETSKE, 



235 



CHAPTER XIII. 

WITH THE C0LLETSK£. 

" 71ie U'aveller who imagines he is the first to penetrate a strange lafid, sees not 
tie zi/ipnnts of the billion footsteps that time has levelled in his pat h.''^ 

^r^HIS Tonu is quite a place," said Fitz, who had been to the 
X mast-head, and reconnoitred the village through a field- 
glass. " What time shall we go on shore, sir ? " 

" About nine o'clock," said his father. " I am very anxious 
to see the habitations of the CoUetske." 




HOUSE IN TONL). 



The party embarked in the captain's gig, and were rowed 
up a creek to the town, which contained about thirty houses, 
built like the Samelenkos' huts, with the crevices of the beams 
calked with moss, and the outer and inner walls coated with a 
very hard plaster. 

" Of what is» this cement made ? " asked Johnnie. 



236 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" They burn shells, and mix the lime thus procured with a 
clay found in the mountains," said Lieut. Koski. " It bears the 
heat very well ; but the hard frosts cause it to crack, and come 
to pieces." 

"Well, their architecture is an improvement on that of the 
Ainos," remarked Johnnie. " I suppose they took the idea of 
paper windows from Japan." 

" No : they got that and the material from China," answered 
the Russian. " You would be astonished at the 
amount of traffic between this island and the 
mainland. Some of the Colletske have been to 
Pekin. I do not think they owe any of their 
civilization to Japan." 

Upon entering the house, the travellers found 
the usual raised benches covered with mats, and 
noticed that the place was heated by a flue, in 
the Russian fashion, the smoke escaping through 
holes in the gables. 

A woman, who was making a quiver, rose 

upon seeing the visitors, and exhibited her work. 

It consisted of two pieces, — a board (A) to 

which were fastened the leathern thongs that 

secured it to the hunter's back; and the arrow-holder (B), 

which was of wihow, fitted with a lid (C) of the same material. 

The only instrument she used was a clumsy knife of very 

common iron, that required sharpening every few minutes. 

She showed them a number of articles that she had made 
during the winter ; then invited the party outside to be intro- 
duced to her husband, who was a blacksmith, and, for a savage, 
very wealthy. 

They found him squatted behind a stone anvil, making 




COLLETSKE QUIVER. 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 



237 



sickles for cutting grass. On his right was a primitive forge, 
the bellows of which were respectively of seal and fish skin, 
furnished with wooden nozzles. 

As the party entered, the smith rose, and saluted them by 
raising his hands to the top of his head, and bringing them 
gradually down his face. He looked very much like a Kara- 
futo Aino, and had a decided cast in one of his eyes. 




KOJE, THE SMITH. 



"This fellow is a real good workman," said the lieutenant. 
" He has often been employed by our officials to rivet chains 
on convicts." 

" Oh ! you chain them up, do you ? " said Fitz. 

" When they are rebellious," was the quiet response. " If 
they do not give trouble they are allowed many privileges. — 
Come, Koje," to the smith, " show these visitors how you make 
your bellows." 



238 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



Koje took, from the beams overhead, a bag made from the 
skin of a seal (i), one end of which was open, and the other 
tightly lashed around a wooden tube (2) about two feet long. 

"This one is being cured," he said. "As soon as it is 
ready for use, I put a whalebone hoop inside it, and take a 
hollow piece of wood (A) in which there is a valve, gather the 
open end of the bag (B) together, and tie it to the handle. 
Two of these make one set of bellows : they last nearly a year." 




COLLETSKE BELLOWS. 



" I see those he uses are furnished with square tubes," said 
Fitz, " and that one of them is made of fish-skin." 

" Yes," replied the man, when the question was translated 
to him, " I use those because one of my sealskin bellows is 
worn out ; " taking up the object referred to, and reversing it. 
" You notice, I have had to rivet a piece of deer-hide on the 
under side of this because the fish-skin wears out so quickly." 

" Ask him to continue his work," said the Professor. 

Koje complied, and, returning to his anvil, seized his 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 239 

pincers, and thrust a strip of iron into the fire. One of his 
assistants, seated on a box, took the bellows upon his knees ; 
while another man placed the nozzles in position, and laid a 
rock upon them. The bellows-blower then worked the instru- 
ments up and down, and produced a steady blast that soon 
brought the charcoal to a red heat. 

" I see," said Johnnie. " By alternately raising the right and 
left bellows, he is enabled to produce a regular blast. If he 
worked them simultaneously, the air would only come in puffs." 

" Our ancestors used the same kind of apparatus," said the 
Professor. 

"These- were copied from the Chinese," remarked the 
Russian. 

"Japanese smiths use bellows that are very much like 
these," said Oto ; adding quietly, " we have also adopted 
the American forge." 

Koje gave directions to his second man, who was sharpen- 
ing blades on a whetstone which he kept moist by dipping his 
hands in water ; then the smith took up a little hammer, re- 
moved the strip of iron from the fire, and continued his labor. 

" How many hours does it take him to make one of those 
sickles ? " inquired Johnnie. 

" About six," was the reply. 

" How much is he paid for them ? " 

When this was translated, Koje scratched his ear, as though 
he were puzzled, and answered, — 

" Sometimes I get a measure of sake ; at others, a litde rice, 
or a skin of millet or grain. Many people give me a skin of 
fish-oil, or a piece of fur to help make a garment." 

" Don't they have any circulating medium here?" demanded 
Fitz. 



240 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" No," answered their guide : " these folks have no use for 
money. They supply the hunters and fishermen, and in return 
are furnished with food, furs, and materials for clothing. I 
believe there is a sort of value placed on bear, fox, otter, deer, 
and dog skins, that is thoroughly understood by the natives, 
and works very well." 

"But what do they do when they go over to Tartary?" 
asked Johnnie. 

"These Colletske understand business," answered the 
officer. "They will load up a sled with skins, and exchange 
the latter for iron, rice, samshoo, and whatever their trade calls 
for" 

" What is samshoo ? " inquired Fitz. 

" Chinese sake,'' said their friend. " As you may imagine, 
they do not require a very elaborate system of book-keeping." 

"Now I know why 'Exchange or Barter' is put in our 
school-books," said Fitz. " I suppose the captains of whalers 
who come here trade off their investments with these inno- 
cents, and the rules are put in our books for the skipper's 
benefit." 

" We do considerable swapping in New England," said 
Johnnie. 

"All primitive people use that method," remarked Oto. 

"You don't call Massachusetts folks primitive, do you?" 
demanded Fitz, whose eyes flashed with indignation. 

Oto gave one of his peculiar laughs, and replied, — 

" Do you remember our tramp round Cape Cod ? We 
encountered some characters almost as original as these 
Colletske, did we not ? " 

Fitz chuckled at this, and drawled, — 

"Well — yeeas — so we did;" adding with a wink, "but 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 



241 



they all knew the value of currency. You did not find one of 
them refuse a dollar." 

"No, nor a cent," said thoughtful Johnnie. " Oto is cor- 
rect : some of our folks are — slightly primitive." 

After watching the smith for a while, they bade him adieu, 
and went with his wife to see a man who made sleighs, snow- 
shoes, and boats. They found him busily engaged putting the 
finishing touches to a canoe (A) made of willow planks lashed 
together with thongs of deer-hide. 

The boys examined it very attentively, then Johnnie said, — 




COLLETSKiz BOAT. 



"The craft we saw down the coast had the thole-pins pegged 
on to the gunwale, and this has them lashed. It also lacks the 
shoe-piece under the bow. This is poor, soft wood to make a 
canoe of, and it is wonderful how neatly the parts are put 
together. Fitz, do you see that it is calked with moss and 
seal-fat ? " 

" I do not want to see it in order to make that discovery," 
answered the boy. " My nose has already informed me of the 
fact." 

"What value does he put on this?" inquired the Professor. 

" I suppose," said Fitz, answering for the Interpreter, " he 
would take a tub of sake, a couple of bear-skins, and a pass 
for the circus." 



242 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" Do be serious, sir," said his father. " My questions are 
put in order to ascertain the value of certain natural and 
mechanical products, and are not intended to create amuse- 
ment," 

" Sorry, sir," murmured the boy, moving towards a sleigh 
(B) that stood under a shed near the boat. " If you want to 
invest, buy this : then we could all go coasting when we get 
home next winter." 

The conveyance was made of a tough, light wood, the 
handles being formed of whalebone, and the top of slats lashed 




COLLETSKE SLEIGH. 



on with deer-sinews. It was very well constructed, and would 
carry quite a load. 

"These Colletske move all over the country during the 
winter," said the Russian. "They harness from four to ten 
dogs to these sleds, and sometimes travel sixty miles a day. 
After the snow begins to fly, they never think of walking. Do 
you observe that every exposed part of this vehicle is bound 
with hide, and the runners are shod with bone ? I have known 
one of these vehicles to be loaded with two thousand pounds 
of fish, after which the owner perched himself on the top of 
the pile." 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 243 

"What are these curled-up shingles (D) for?" asked Sallie. 

"Those are snow-shoes," was the answer. "They secure 
them to their feet with two thongs of deer-hide, tied crosswise, 
and can shp them off and on hke a Japanese clog." 

"Are these iron-pointed sticks darts?" asked Johnnie, 
taking up a light staff about three feet long, the point of 
which was tipped with copper. 

" They are used to steer the sleighs with," was the answer. 
" Sometimes, when the dogs are unmanageable, they are 
prodded with a stick." 

" How cruel of them ! " said Sallie. 

" It does not hurt the dogs, miss," answered the amused 
Russian. "We use hundreds of the animals in our coal-mines. 
By the way, there is quite a large mine four or five miles up the 
creek. Would you like to visit it ? The shaft is very deep, and 
the coal of a curious kind, containing the remains of gigantic 
ferns, mosses, and the trunks of trees." 

" We have similar coal in oi]r country," said Johnnie. " Do 
the Colletske work your mines ? " 

"We employ our convicts to do that," answered the lieu- 
tenant. " In the winter many of them remain under ground 
for several weeks at a time." 

" I suppose they prefer that to running the risk of being 
frozen to death above," observed Fitz. " It seems very sad to 
exile people to such a place as this." 

"They bring the punishment upon themselves," quietly 
returned the Russian. " Instead of working like honest men, 
they endeavor to live upon the weakness of their fellow- 
creatures, whom they make discontented and unhappy. When 
we catch such fellows, we send them here, and make use 
of them. Supposing you had a lazy, discontented, savage. 



244 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



unruly, ignorant class in New York, what would you do with 
them ? " 

Fitz made a comical grimace, then said, — 
"Well, we would let them run our political machine. It 
would be better than keeping them in prison : such creatures; 

have to live anyhow." 

Before the travellers left, the sleigh- 
maker brought out a curious bottle made 
of metal, and a wooden cup decorated 
with five dots arranged in a peculiar man- 
ner. 

Their host smiled, then bowed, and 
said, — 

"Will you drink?" 
" What is it ? " asked Fitz. 
" Vodke " (Russian whiskey), returned 
the old fellow. 

" Lieut. Koski," said the Professor, 
" kindly explain to this gentleman, that 
my family has been raised upon strict 
temperance principles. Will you also 
ask him to be good enough to let me 
examine that bottle ? " 

Their host did so ; and, upon looking 
closely at the metal, he remarked, — 

"Why, this is made of pure tin. Is it a product of this 
island ? " 

" No : it comes from Tartary, Professor. There are many 
such articles made there by the natives. You will everywhere 
find evidences of the close communication of the people of 
this island and the Tartars." 




TIN BOTTLE. 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 245 

"Yes," said Oto, "that is the reason why Japan felt no 
compunction about ceding Karafuto to your country. We had 
never regarded either the Samelenko, the Colletske, the Santan, 
or Oroko as Japanese. Some foreigners have spoken dispara- 
gingly about our yielding part of our empire ; while really, for 
many years, we only controlled the inhabitants of this place 
who lived below the forty-eighth parallel." 

When the sled-maker found that his guests would not par- 
take of his hospitality, he offered them the wooden cup which 
he said he had manufactured. 

"Dear me!" said the Professor, regarding it with interest. 
" I wonder how he made this." 

" Jacked it out with a knife," glibly suggested Fitz. " I do 
not believe there is a turning-lathe in the reservation." 

" This decoration is peculiar," said his father, smilingly 
regarding his host. ' No doubt these five dots have a signifi- 
cance. Can you, Lieut. Koski, ascertain what it is?" 

While their friend was endeavoring to extract the informa- 
tion from their host, Fitz whispered to his father, — 

" I know, sir. It is intended to represent a man's eyes, 
nose, and mouth. Art is in its infancy up in these regions. 
They do not understand any thing about tone and color- 
harmony." 

"Your son guessed rightly," said the Russian. "Those 
dots were intended to represent a friend of this man's who 
died last winter." 

" He must have been very homely-featured," said Fitz. 
"Hullo! what is the old fellow eoine to show us now.-*" 

The man went to his storehouse, and brought out a straight 
sword (t), and a bow (2) and arrow (3), which he offered to 
the Jewett boys, saying, — 



246 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



" I am a very humble person, and not wealthy : still, having 
honored me with your presence, I cannot let you go away 
empty-handed. Please accept this sword : it was forged by 
my brother, who was swallowed by a whale several years 
ago." 

" He must have been a Colletske Jonah," said Fitz. 
" He means that his brother was killed by a whale," quietly 

answered the lieutenant. " He 
says that bow is made of a 
tough wood, found only near 
this place." 

" Were they manufactured 
by his brother Jonah ? " said 
Johnnie, who was sceptical 
about the story. 

" No : they are of his own 
make, and the arrow is poi- 
soned," was the reply. 

"Come," said the captain, 
looking in at the door. "We 
are going to have some rough 
weather, and I am anxious to 
get round to Toronto on the 
north-east side. It has a fine 
harbor, and if a hurricane 
comes on we can ride it out there." 

The travellers bade adieu to Tonu, and, embarking on board 
the ship, steamed round the extreme northern point of Kara- 
futo, and started down the east coast. 

It took them a day and a night to reach Toronto Bay ; by 
which time the strong breeze, blowing when they started, had 




COLLETSKE WEAPONS. 




T^!fSx:^<f^c^^^ 



248 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPFERS OF YEZO. 



culminated in a hurricane, that kept them on board the vessel 
forty-eight hours after they came to anchor. 

When the gale was over, they landed, and found two Santan 
girls cleaning salmon upon the beach. Their hair was dressed 
in a mixed Aino and Tartar style ; and both of them were very 
merry and free, saluting the travellers without the least sign of 




SANTAN GIRLS. 



embarrassment. They wore buttons on their dresses in Chinese 
fashion, and one of the girls had her robe trimmed with brass 
rings the size of a silver dollar. 

The maidens were so busy that they did not stop while 
chatting with the visitors, but talked and worked, saying, — 

" The gale caused the fish to retire to deep water ; but, as 
soon as they knew that the wind was abating, they returned in 
great numbers, and this morning our people have had their 
nets full" 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 



249 



The Santans were living in their summer-quarters, which 
consisted of tents made of the skins of fishes, rudely sewn 
together upon a frame composed of roughly cut saplings tied 
with thongs of deer- hide. 

The party entered one of the structures, which, though bare 
of furniture, was neatly kept, and waterproof. 

" How light it is !" said Fitz. "It is like a tent made of 
oiled paper." 

" Yes, and quite as mal-odorous," said Johnnie. 

" Well, you cannot expect dried fish-skin to have the 




SANTAN SUMMER RESIDENCE. 



delightful perfume of a rose," said Fitz as they quitted the 
structure. " I think this is a smart idea. The only thing is, it 
strikes me as being an awful waste of glue-material." 

"Why do they call this place Toronto?" inquired Sallie of 
the lieutenant. " Did they borrow the name from Canada?" 

The Russian laughed, and replied, — 

"The fact is, the Santans originated the name: so the 
Canadians must have appropriated it." 

"For what is that heavy roof?" asked the Professor, point- 
ing to a structure behind one of the tents. 



250 THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" That is a summer storehouse. It is buih and roofed 
with sapHngs in order to protect the fish from the crows, 
which are very great thieves. Do you have those birds in 
America ? " 

" Yes," said Fitz : " they yanked up all the pease I planted 
one spring." 




SANTAN STOREHOUSE. 



"'Yank' is not an elegant word, my son," whispered his 
mother. 
- "I understand his meaning," said the Russian. 

" It is in the dictionary," murmured the boy. 

" Mamma knows that," said Sallie ; " but we do not use all 
the words we find there." 

" Oh ! I suppose you have made a special study of the 
lexicon," retorted Fitz. " I understand, in future I shall have 
to weigh every word before I use it." 

This difference of opinion highly amused Lieut. Koski ; who 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 



251 



politely waited until the discussion had ended, then said to the 
Professor, — 

" Look at those tona kaV (deer). " The Santans use them 
to draw their sleds ; are they not curious creatures ? " 

The gentleman led the way to the group of animals, and 
after examining them said, — 

"These must have been imported from Tartary. I do not 
think they can be indige- 
nous. Come, Fitz, exercise 
your powers of observation. 
Which species of deer do 
you consider this to be ? " 

The boy made a grimace, 
as though he disliked being 
catechised, placed his right 
elbow in the palm of his left 
hand, and rested his chin 
upon his right (his father's 
favorite position when lec- 
turing), then said, — 

"The palmate lower 
horns, and cylindric upper, 
would lead me to infer these 
to belong to the Kangifer- 
carabou ; but, from the extraordinary length of their tails, I 
should imagine they are the missing link between the mule 
and the deer. I should conjecture that the extreme length of 
their caudal appendages has been caused by the continual at- 
tention brought to bear upon them by the Santan drivers, who, 
no doubt, use them as reins." 

" That will do, sir," sternly answered his parent. " When I 




SANTAN DEER (TONA KAl). 



252 THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

question you with regard to your progress in the science of 
zoology, I do not desire such a flippant reply." 

"Very sorry, sir," was the penitent response. " I could not 
resist telling you what I thought" 

The travellers visited several huts, and would have staid a 
day or two at Toronto, but were driven on board the ship by 
dense clouds of smoke that came from the south, and rendered 
sight and breathing very difficult. 

As they were embarking, the lieutenant said, — 

" The ground is on fire down by Hento. In some places 
the soil is covered for several feet with dead leaves, that mat 
together ; and, the summers being dry, they do not rot." 

" I remember tumbling into one of those holes," said Fitz. 
" It was filled with dust-like peat." 

*' Yes," responded the Russian : " the powder resembles 
punk, and burns quite slowly. The natives are very careless, 
and, when they light a fire in the woods, are too stupid to think 
of extinguishing it. These slow fires will burn for months, and 
sometimes years, and during the summer-time are often very 
troublesome, suffocating numbers of the natives." 

" Say," cried Fitz, as though suddenly remembering some- 
thing, " what is to-day ? " 

" The last of September," answered his father. " How 
the time has flown ! It will be winter by the time we arrive 
home." 

" Home ! " echoed Johnnie. " Are we really going, sir ? " 

" Yes," replied his father. " I have decided to decline 
the ofl'er of the Japanese Government, which wishes me to 
remain in Japan for another term of years. Your mother has 
had enough of travelling ; and I want you, boys, to go to 
college." 



WITH THE COLLETSKE. 253 

" 'Rah ! " cried Fitz. " That is good news. I am really 
hungering for a sight of old Cromlech. Here we are alongside 
the ship. — Mother, let me help you up." 

In half an hour they were steaming down the burning coast 
for Horonai. 



2 54 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

AMONG THE OROKO. 

" When the rats come indoors, it is time to examine your winter kimono '' 
{clothes), — Japanese Proverb. 

IT is growing cold," said Sallie, as she promenaded the deck 
with her father. " I should not be astonished if we had a 
flurry before we get clear of Karafuto. The winter begins very 
early in this region, does it not, Capt, Imadate?" 

Their friend smiled, and said, — 

" Yes ; but even if we have a slight fall of snow, I do not 
believe it will inconvenience you. Here is Lieut. Koski : he 
knows more about it than I do." 

The Russian smiled, and said, — 

" The natives welcome the beautiful snow : it enables them 
to get about, and to visit distant places. At the first fall 
they harness their dogs or deer, and are off upon trading- 
expeditions." 

" You quoted ' Beautiful Snow,' " said Sallie. " Have you 
ever heard the American poem of that name ? About a hun- 
dred people claim to have written it." 

" We once had a similar bone of contention in Russia," said 
the lieutenant; "but the authorship was easily decided, the 
emperor announcing that the writer, or whoever claimed to be 
such, was to be banished to Siberia, which quickly settled the 
question." 



AMONG THE OROKO. 255 

"There is Horonai right ahead," said Capt. Imadate. "We 
shall come to anchor about nine o'clock, and you can disembark 
in the morning. I think you will be very much interested in 
the Oroko tribe. I shall be compelled to leave you on shore 
for a few days while I run back to see if I can render the 
Santans any assistance. Lieut. Koski is afraid the loss of life 
through this fire will be severe. Both Hento and Chia 
are enveloped in a dense body of smoke, and I fear the inhabit- 
ants have not sufficient means of quitting the land." 

" We do not mind tenting it," said Mrs. Jewett. " I am 
very glad you are going to the assistance of the poor people." 

They disembarked early on the following morning, and 
found themselves in a land-locked harbor, which was, however, 
more shallow than any they had before visited. The Russian 
flag was flying above some houses occupied by the coast-guard ; 
and Lieut. Koski told the travellers that about two miles in 
the interior there were very extensive coal and copper mines, 
worked by the exiles. 

"What mountain is that over to the left?" asked Sallie. 

"Mount Kitoshi," said their friend. "We saw it on the 
other side. The island is very narrow, and is a mass of vol- 
canic formations." 

The boys hoisted a Japanese and an American flag on the 
tent, and the sailors cut a supply of wood to last the party 
several days ; then the captain returned on board his ship, and 
proceeded up the coast. 

" How very cold it is growing ! " said Fitz with a shiver. " I 
(wish we had brought our overcoats." 

About nine o'clock the snow began to fall, and by noon It 
stormed in earnest. 

"This is pleasant," said Johnnie. "We cannot light a fire 



AMONG THE OROKO. 257 

in here, for fear of burning down the tent. I am afraid we 
shall be half-frozen before the ship returns." 

In a few moments Lieut. Koski, who had been out in 
search of the Oroko village, re-entered, and said, — 

" I have got some news for you. I met the chief of this 
tribe, who will presently bring a sled to take you to his 
dwelling." 

As he spoke they heard voices outside, and some dogs 
barking. 

" Let us go and see," cried Fitz, who, enveloped in a bear- 
skin robe, looked very much like the animal. " Is not this fun ! " 

The whole party followed him, and beheld two Orokos on a 
sled drawn by three dogs. The men saluted by placing their 
fingers on their foreheads; and the chief said to the lieu- 
tenant, — 

" We have only three skins of oil which we can leave here. 
Please ask your friends to get on the sled, and tell them I will 
carry them to my house. I shall be very much honored by 
their taking up their abode there." 

The boys assisted their mother and sister upon the vehicle, 
then, with their father, Oto, and the lieutenant, took their 
places. 

" All aboard ! " shouted Fitz. " The next stop will be at the 
Horonai Hotel." 

The men fastened an extra rope to the sled, and, shouting 
to the dogs, started at a rapid run. 

In about twenty minutes they arrived at their destination, 
which proved to be quite a well-built structure, and was really 
very clean and cosey. 

"This man's name is Ippu," said their guide. "He is the 
chief of the Oroko tribe." 



AMONG THE OROKO. 259 

" I should not have known it," observed FItz. " He does 
not put on any frills." 

" He wants to speak to you," continued Lieut. Koski, as the 
party seated themselves upon the matted floor. 

"Tell him we are all attention," said the Professor, 
*' And please inform him that if he will kindly let his house, 
we will pay any sum he requires." 

The Oroko bowed very low, then said, — 

" This is a very poor place. I have nothing here, but those 
old swords and the lacquer tubs, worth your looking at. You 
are from a distant land, and need shelter : accept my home, and 
I will go into the reindeer-shed, which is very warm and com- 
fortable." 

While this was being translated, Fitz said in an undertone 
to Sallie, — 

" He is like old Hardcase at Cromlech, who used to let his 
house, furnished, to summer boarders, and take up his abode in 
the hay-loft." 

Sallie gave him a cautionary signal, and the Professor 
looked very grave, so the boy did not continue his remarks. 

Ippu was about to retire, when the Professor said, — 

" Please ask him to stay a moment, and request him to tell 
me what remuneration he expects." 

When this was translated, the man said, — 

" I do not understand you. I cannot sell my home ; and, as 
for your staying here, you will honor me greatly by doing so." 

" I wonder w^iether one of our boarding-house keepers 
would consider the honor of Ippu's company sufficient pay," 
whispered Fitz to his sister. " He is a genuine savage. Gives 
up his house, and says that he does not want any thing for his 
trouble. Isn't he an innocent ? " 



26o THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

Finding the chief would not agree to accept any payment, 
they allowed him to retire ; then all hands set to work to make 
themselves comfortable. 

They found a tub full of fresh spring-water, and a stone 
trough in which they made bread. There were two iron kettles 
hung upon the walls, from which were also suspended a copper 
axe, two iron frying-pans, lacquer boxes containing rice, some 
fine swords, quivers of arrows, fish-spears, and inaho. 

Fitz and Johnnie climbed up a notched pole, and surveyed 
the contents of the attic. 

Oto, Mrs. Jewett, and Sallie built a fire on the hearth in the 
centre of the room ; and the Professor " mooned " round, and 
made notes of the furniture. 

" How do they use these two curious pieces of wood, hang- 
ing near this stone trough ? " asked the Professor. 

"Those are wooden hams, sir," said Fitz. "I guess they 
got the pattern from some Fall- River whaler. Those indigest- 
ible counterfeits must have found a ready market among these 
guileless Orokos." 

" Those pieces are used as clappers, in order to give an 
alarm in case of fire," said the lieutenant. "They do look 
something like hams." 

Mrs. Jewett called every one to assist in preparing the meal ; 
and they had a very merry time, the building being filled with 
dense smoke in which they could hardly distinguish each other. 

After a while they discovered a ventilator ; and by dint of 
opening it, and rolling up the reed blind that served as a door, 
they contrived to render the atmosphere bearable. 

That night they slept soundly upon the matted floor, while 
outside the snow was falling, and the wind blowing furiously. 

After breakfast the next morning, an Oroko, clad in a bear- 



262 



THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



skin coat and cap, tiger- skin knickerbockers, and seal- skin 
leggings and wooden snow-shoes, stopped outside the building, 
and began to summon their host. : 

Lieut. Koski went to the door ; whereupon the man raised 
his hand to his forehead, and said, — 

" My sister has just died, and I want Ippu to come to the 

funeral." 

" There are foreigners 
here with me," said the 
Russian. " Ippu is staying 
in his deer-shed." 

The man again saluted, 
then, throwing his spear 
over his shoulder, went off 
to find his friend. 

"How much the cos- 
tumes of these men resem- 
ble those of the old Japan- 
ese archers ! " said Professor 
Jewett. " I suppose both 
were copied from the an- 
cient Tartar dress." 

"Why does he carry a 

BAD INtWa. 

spear in his hand, and have 
a reed mat and some codfish upon his back ? " asked Sallie. 

" He requires the weapon to defend himself against the 
bears," replied the Russian. " Sometimes, when the wind 
blows very high, these men have to camp out in the woods ; 
when they make a tent-pole of their spear, and, covering it with 
a mat, crawl under it, and go to sleep. They use the dried 
fish as we do bread." 




AMONG THE OROKO. 263 

The storm did not abate much during the day, so the trav- 
ellers contented themselves with watching the dog-sleighs pass 
and repass. The animals evidently knew the hut contained 
strangers ; for they invariably stopped in front of the door, and 
refused to go until they had satisfied their curiosity by gazing 
on the new-comers. 

One sled, drawn by six dogs, was delayed for over half an 
hour, and afforded great amusement to the young people. 

The man who drove the team was a powerfully built Oroko, 
and so enveloped in bearskins that Fitz named him Capt. Boyn- 
ton, whom he somewhat resembled. He steered the sled by a 
dexterous use of his snow-shoes, and a staff pointed with 
copper, and managed the dogs with a single hide-rope which 
he held in his risfht hand. His vehicle was laden with four 
skins of fish-oil, the odor of which was perceptible in the hut. 

After a while the man became very angry, and abused his 
dogs in a shrill falsetto ; whereupon they suddenly swerved to 
the right, threw him upon the snow, and set off homeward as 
hard as they could run. 

The spectators laughed until the tears ran down their 
cheeks ; for instead of rising, and following his dogs, the fellow 
sat up on the snow, and howled like a child. 

" His is not the Aino whine," said Johnnie. " I do not 
believe our friends in Yezo would be guilty of such babyish 
behavior." 

Presently the man uttered a prolonged bark, then rose, 
adjusted his foot-gear, and started in pursuit of his dogs. 

The fall continued until about five o'clock, when the boys 
put on native snow-shoes, and went out to reconnoitre. 

There was one undercrround dwelline in the villaofe ; and, 
as it was covered with snow, the young Americans had an 



AMONG THE OROKO. 265 

opportunity of understanding why It was built In that peculiar 
manner. 

" 1 comprehend," remarked Johnnie : " by partly sinking 
their dwelhngs, they are enabled to keep them very warm, and 
at the same time to obtaira ventilation." 

"The structures that are entirely built above ground are 
exceedingly cold, and are more liable to be blocked with snow, 
than these," said the lieutenant. 

"I would not like to live up here," said Fitz. "Just 
imagine burrowing like bears during six months in the year. 
How sad it must be for the Russian exiles ! " 

The lieutenant smiled at this, and said, 

"They are nearly all underground during the winter: 
besides, they have their minds and bodies employed, and are 
better off than many people in Russia. As to the natives, if 
this snow continues, there will not be an Oroko here in a week. 
They will close their huts, and migrate. The winter to them is 
what the summer Is to us." 

That evening the travellers sat round the fire, and lis- 
tened to Lieut. Koski's stories of Russian life ; then, when 
the Professor announced It was past midnight, retired to their 
mats. 

About six o'clock the next morning Fitz called out, — 

" I do not know how you are, but I am unpleasantly warm." 

" So am I," answered his father, who had been lying awake 
for some time. "Another hot wave has ascended from the 
south, and will soon melt the snow." 

The boy went to the door, and, pulling aside the mat, 
glanced out, and said, — 

" It has already vanished. The rain Is coming down, and 
the ground looks like a sponge." 



266 



T-HE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



After the party had breakfasted, Ippu called upon them, and 
said, — 

"Would you care to see the funeral?" 

"Thank you," answered the Professor. "We should very 
much like to be present." 

"Then, please come with me." 

Lieut. Koski, who had been out watching for the arrival 

of the ship, said to his 
friends, — 

" If you take my ad- 
vice, you will remove your 
boots and stockings, and 
roll up your pants over 
your knees, then put on 
the native sandals. The 
ground is just like a pud- 
ding, and in some places 
is a deep bog." 

Ippu told them to take 
the fishing- spears for 
poles, and, if they felt 
themselves sinking deep- 




WOWIAN'S MONUMENT. 



ly, to call to him at once. 

They walked about three-quarters of a mile, then arrived at 
a little valley, scattered about which were some curious monu- 
ments, made of wood. 

"These are the women's tombs," said their guide. "The 
Orokos can tell, by the decoration on the horizontal piece, the 
name of the person to whose memory the monument is erected." 

"How can they do that when they have no alphabet?" 
inquired Johnnie. 



AMONG THE OROKO. 267 

" Of course the signs are arbitrary," was the reply. 

" I understand," answered the lad. " It is like an old man 
who used to sell fish in our place. He made one wriggle for 
our name, and two for our neighbor's, and so on. But when he 
died nobody could unravel his accounts, so they adjudged him 
a bankrupt." 

The Russian smiled.at this, and remarked, — 

"We have just such characters in my native place. The 
world is very much alike, all over." 

While they were chatting, a procession approached, bearing 
the body of the woman. 

No one displayed any very great grief, nor was there any 
exhibition of indifference. They moved in and out among the 
tombs until they reached a shallow grave, where they halted : 
then the chief gave the order, the body was interred with- 
out any words being spoken, and the Orokos moved quickly 
away, as though in a hurry to quit the spot. 

"The men are never buried," said their guide. "Some- 
times they are placed in a coffin, which is deposited up in a 
niche in the mountains ; but, as a rule, they are exposed in 
some out-of-the-way place, and are gradually absorbed by the 
elements." 

"What is their marriage-ceremony like?" said the Pro- 
fessor. 

" It resembles that of the Ainos of Yezo," replied their 
friend. "There are a number of Russian papas'' (priests) " in 
this island, and I suppose half of the five tribes have been 
baptized ; but I do not think any of the converts understand 
the nature of the ceremony." 

" I should imagine not," said the Professor. " Although 
the Samelenko, Santan, Colletske, and Oroko tribes have 



268 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

sufficient intelligence to satisfy their bodily wants, their mental 
capacity is comparatively undeveloped." 

"That is why my nation has such contempt for them," said 
Oto. " I have been studying these people very closely, and 
believe, with their splendid cranial development, they could be 
taught almost any thing. They have, for centuries, been de- 
prived of all opportunity of acquiring what we call knowledge, 
spite of which they have not degenerated into brutality. Of 
the five tribes, I prefer the Aino ; they, in my opinion, being 
the purer race. One of the most ^emarkable facts concern- 
ing them is their strong resemblance to the aborigines of 
Australia." 

Fitz, who had listened with the utmost gravity, clapped his 
hands, and said, — 

" Bravo ! Professor Nambo, you ought to be engaged by the 
lecture-bureau at Cromlech. They will give you chalk and a 
blackboard ; and you can dance about the platform, and astonish 
folks with your wonderful diagrams. I reckon you would make 
your fortune In two or three years." 

Oto laughed, and the lieutenant said, — 

" I do not think there is any thing more to Interest us in 
this spot." 

" That is so," laughingly responded Johnnie. " The inscrip- 
tions on the tombstones are not very amusing reading." 

" Let us take a walk on the shore," suggested their father. 

" It is more like wading, sir," said Fitz. " I thought the 
section about Ishikarl Mountain was rather pulpy, but this is 
the land of mush." 

" I wish it were a land of mush and milk," said his brother. 

" I never saw such a fellow as you are to grumble, Johnnie 
Jewett," said Fitz. 



AMONG THE OROKO. 269 

** Well, brother, I think that remark is amusing from you," 
retorted Johnnie. " We have heard nothing but your growls 
ever since we started." 

'' Why, Johnnie, I only objected to getting up at uncivilized 
hours," was the laughing response. " I do not remember ever 
having complained ; do you, father ? " 

"I would rather not express my opinion," answered the 
Professor. " I am wondering how long we shall be doomed to 
remain in this place. Now this warm spell has come, it may be 
very unhealthy." 

The mud was something appalling, and so greasy that the 
natives continued to use their sleds exactly as though the 
ground were still covered with snow. 

When the travellers reached the shore, they found three 
men busily engaged loading a sled with dried fish. 

*' Where are they going ? " inquired Fitz. 

"Across the mountains to Wakee," said the lieutenant. 
"They can sled over this mud, and get their mats of fish on 
to the other side of the island, before the deep snows set in." 

" What will they do with it ? " asked Johnnie. 

"Take it across to Tartary," was the reply. "Some of this 
fish finds its way into the heart of China." 

" How are they paid for it ? " 

" In brass ornaments, scrap-iron, and the other things which 
these people value. Each sled will carry eight mats of fish, 
and a driver ; and, upon an average, the dogs will run twenty 
miles a day." 

Fitz, who had attentively watched the men, whistled in a 
peculiar fashion, and whispered to his father, — 

" I have made a discovery, sir. These Orokos are one of 
the lost tribes of Israel. Look at their noses." 



270 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

The Professor shook his head reprovingly, but could not 
avoid smiling. 

They watched the natives catch a dog, that was evidently 
unwilling to be harnessed to the sled, and which was dragged 
along to the hitching-post as a nurse drags an unruly child. 

The men were some time packing the vehicle, and starting 
the team : however, it finally got away, and went gliding 
through the mud at a rapid pace. 

As the party saw it disappear, one of the Oroko pointed 
down the bay, and said, — 

"There is the ship !" 

" Good news, good news ! " shouted the boys ; then they 
waded back to Ippu's hut, and communicated the intelligence 
to Mrs. Jewett. 

An hour afterwards they were once more on board the 
man-of-war, and were steaming down the coast for Chika- 
hiroshi Bay. 



272 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



CHAPTER XV. 

ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 
*^The discarded pottery of a nation is often the only record of its existence^ 

THE man-of-war touched at Wencotan, Nui, Kun, and 
Kukina, at which place they saw the last of the Oroko 
tribe. Then they steamed round the cape of Sinpu-shiritoco, 
and ran westward across Chika-hiroshi Bay to Horono, one of 
the two famous mountains of Karafuto. 

As they sighted the towering peak, they noticed that only 
its summit was covered with snow, which made the pinnacles 
resemble gigantic stalagmites. 

The temperature, which in latitude fifty-one had been low 
enough to be exceedingly unpleasant, was here quite high. 
This determined the travellers to remain a day or two, and see 
something more of the Ainos of Karafuto. 

Col. Goshkoff, the Russian officer in charge of the convict 
establishment at Horotoki, the town at the base of the moun- 
tain, came off to the ship to welcome them. He was a very 
hospitable gentleman, who had once been e.ttached to the lega- 
tion at Washington, and was therefore exceedingly pleased to 
see any one from the States. 

He begged them to stay with him, and told the Professor 
that a wonderful piece of old pottery had recently been dis- 
covered by some Ainos who were prospecting on the mountain 
side. 



ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 



27: 



*'*You really must come on shore with me," he said. "I 
have a large house ; and my wife, who accompanied me to 
America, will be delighted to entertain you. My boat is along- 
side, and you only have to enter it." 

The Professor accepted the invitation ; and the travellers 
were rowed on shore in a Russian launch, manned by thirty 
convicts. 

The first sight that greeted them on landing was two AInos, 
performing ouri. They 
were dressed somewhat dif- 
ferently from the Yezo-jin, 
wore skin - robes trimmed 
with brass ornaments, and 
had a wheel pattern em- 
broidered on each shoul- 
der, but otherwise were 
very much like their breth- 
ren on the next island. 

" I wonder what the 
decoration upon that man's 
robe means," said the Professor 

" I should think it is an advertisement for fireworks," said 
Fitz. "We used to see it on the papers of the crackers we 
burnt on the Fourth of July." 

" Your son is right," said the colonel. " On the last 
anniversary of the emperor's birthday, I burnt some fire- 
works, the wrappers of which were eagerly appropriated by 
the Ainos, who have since used the trade-mark as a decora- 
tion for their robes." 

"That only confirms my theory," said the Professor. "All 
the Chinese forms are of great antiquity." 




KARAFUTO AINOS' OURI. 



" It is a very ancient design." 



274 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

They left the AInos holding each other's hands, and weeping 
like children. 

Mrs. Goshkoff proved to be a very charming lady ; and her 
establishment, being kept in pure Russian style, was most inter- 
esting to the Americans. 

" It is dreadful to be exiled here," she said. " I have not a 
soul to speak to but my husband ; for one cannot associate with 
the prisoners, though we have many gentlemen and ladies 
among them." 

" Why cannot you ? " said Fitz. " I should think it would 
be better than the monotony you complain of." 

"It is against the regulations," was the response. "The 
colojiel stationed here before my husband, had charge of his 
own brother, who was condemned to perpetual exile. Of 
course, when the authorities discovered this, they recalled the 
officer." 

"How do you amuse yourself during the long winter?" 
asked Sallie. 

" I superintend the house, and study the customs of the 
Ainos," replied the lady. " I also paint a little. That," point- 
ing to the wall, " represents Konac, our chief hunter, killing a 
seal on the ice. I witnessed the scene last winter." 

" Why does he have a crooked spear?" asked Johnnie. 

" It enables him to use it under the ice," replied the lady. 
" Konac is a very faithful creature, and has secured me quite a 
number of skins." 

" He is well wrapped up, is he not?" said Fitz, adding in a 
musing tone, " How much do you pay him for each skin ?" 

"Nothing," answered the lady: "those people think it is 
quite enough honor if we condescend to accept their presents." 

Fortunately dinner was announced, or there is no knowing 



ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 



275 



what remark Fitz might have made. He had been brought up 
with sound notions about right and wrong, and did not under- 
stand the pecuhar kindness that prompted a civiHzed lady to 
accept furs from a savage ignorant of their value. 

It was very amusing to hear the colonel's wife inquiring of 
Mrs. Jewett and Sallie about the latest fashions in New York, 




and to listen to her husband's utterances of admiration of 
our freedom ; similar liberal expressions of sentiment having 
caused the exile of many of the prisoners under his charge. 
When the travellers were retiring, he said, — 
" To-morrow we will hunt a bear, reported to be near by, in 
the mountains ; then we can visit the native who has that 
curious piece of pottery." 

The party started at daybreak, and travelled in some of the 



276 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



wildest scenery they had yet met with ; the ladies of course 
remaining at home. 

" It is a little moist here," said the colonel, as they followed 
the Aino guides up a caiion, through which a torrent rushed 
with great impetuosity. "There are no roads, to speak of; and 
when you go huoting, you have to travel like the Ainos," 




ASCENDING HORONOBORl. 



The mosquitoes were in clouds, and of a greater variety 
than the wanderers had ever before encountered ; in spite of 
which no one complained, but jumped from stone to stone, and, 
after a weary tramp, reached a level plateau, covered with a 
very fine growth of timber. They also saw gigantic specimens 
of the bekonoshita (mammoth dock). 

"We call it akita-buki'' said Oto ; "but I never saw such 
enormous ones as these in my country." 



ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 277 

"Why is this tree barked in places?" said Fitz. ''I have 
noticed the same thing on a trunk, a Httle lower down." 

"That is scratched during the winter by the bears. The 
Ainos assert that they do it in order to know their way when 
the ground is covered with snow. But that is absurd: they, 
like all clawed animals, scratch bark or any similar substance 
in order to sharpen their nails." 

" Yes," said Fitz with a nod. " I have seen our cat, Kitty 
Spot, doing the same thing." 

When they arrived at the place where they expected to 
find the bear, they saw an old Aino hunter seated on the 
ground, discharging arrows at a very high tree. Every time 
he drew his bow, he muttered somethine. 

" I do not see any bear up there," remarked Fitz. 

"That tree is regarded as sacred," said the colonel. "Do 
you not notice how the top branches are studded with barbs 
of arrows ? Sometimes the Ainos come out here in o-reat 
numbers to shoot." 

"A kind of target-party," suggested Fitz. "You have 
seen them in the States, have you not, colonel? — a lot of men 
in red shirts, Derby hats, mammoth gloves, and antediluvian 
pants, marching in bad order, under a broiling sun, with a 
colored boy in the rear carrying a target, and three mem- 
bers bearing tin-plated casters for the first, second, and third 
prizes." 

"That is a very graphic description," said their amused 
host. " I have often seen them, and wondered what enjoyment 
there could be in their parade. This chito-kamtushi is about 
the same thing." 

" So the natives have a name for it, do they?" answered 
the boy. 



278 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"Yes," was the reply: '" ckito means shoot, and kannushi 
hit." 

" Suppose they miss ? " said Johnnie. 

" Then they fire until they strike the tree. They will select 
a pine or a willow, and will discharge their arrows at it until the 
top is cut all to pieces. The frost generally kills it ; and, if 
the tree survives the first winter, it becomes stunted and 
malformed." 

" I have noticed such objects in Yezo," said Oto. " There 
the Ainos cover them with inaho. If one of their arrows hits 
the tree, they call themselves champion marksmen." 

The Aino, who had been thus amusing himself, rose, and, 
after gracefully saluting the colonel, said, — 

" It is sad to have to communicate bad intelligence. The 
bear was tired of waiting here, and has gone off to rejoin his 
family." 

This speech afforded the Americans great amusement, the 
Aino having delivered it with the utmost gravity. 

" I do not imagine we shall have any sport," remarked the 
colonel. " Would you like to call on Choko, the man who has 
the old piece of pottery ? " 

" With pleasure," said the Professor. " Much as I enjoy 
the chase, I greatly prefer to hunt for curios. Where was this 
piece found ? " 

" I do not know much about it," was the reply. " Some of 
the Ainos say, at Kushunai ; and others, that it was dug up in 
what they call the Taiko district. The old fellow^ who owns it 
is quite a character, and will afford your boys some amusement. 
His hut is three-quarters of a mile from here." 

The party reached the place about noon, and found Choko 
sunning himself outside his dwelling. He was very old, and 



ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 279 

had a natural dignity that commanded the respect of his 
visitors, and prevented even the mirth-loving Fitz from joking. 

He saluted the new-comers gravely, and, upon being 
informed that they desired to see his treasure, said, — 

" In the ancient times there was a woman who lived near 
the mountain road called Inao-karusi. She was a very able 
person, and understood more than any other female since the 
time that the gods lived on the earth. Her thoughts were 
very deep, and she desired to benefit the Ainos. Inao-karusi 
is one mile from the river Hase-bets, which place was cele- 
brated as the residence of a god who dwelt by the side of a 
weeping- willow tree. The old woman, who was called Taiko, 
from the district in which she was born, discovered how to 
make earthen pots, and to burn them, so that they would hold 
water. After many trials she produced some beautiful speci- 
mens, most of which were seven inches wide, three and a 
half deep, and half an inch thick. These could be put on 
the fire, and were twice as serviceable as the stone vessels 
then in use. When she had instructed the Ainos on the 
eastern coast how to make the vessels, she tied a pot in a 
cloth, and, securing it over her shoulders, started for this place, 
Upon reaching the base of Horonobori she stumbled, fell, and 
broke her treasure all to pieces, This misfortune preyed upon 
her mind ; she became sick, and died, leaving directions that 
the fragments of the pot should be buried with her," 

"Why didn't she set to work, and make another one?" 
whispered Fitz to the colonel, who was interpreting. " It 
strikes me that the original inventor would not have worried 
over losing one specimen. She would have collected some 
clay, built a fire, and have made another pot before you could 
say ' wink,' " 



28o THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

Col. Goshkoff smiled, then continued his interpretation, 
saying, — 

" Ever since she was buried, the weeping-willow has been 
regarded as a god, the people believing that her spirit inhabits 
it. In the old times we used to make inaho ; but since the 
change, \}ii<si batzu'' (Greek priests) "have forbidden us to cut 
those things." 

"That is very sensible of the priests," said Fitz. "The 
Ainos of Yezo waste two-thirds of their time in making inako, 
and neglect every thing in order to whittle a stick into shavings. 
I think these Karafuto men are smart." 

The man listened gravely, and, when this was translated to 
him, said, — 

" Young gentleman from afar, you are right. Usually the 
words of children have very little weight, they being mere 
foolishness. Would you like to see the pot ? " 

On being informed that was the purpose for which the 
visitors had come, he retired into his hut, and presently re- 
turned carrying a lacquer box, such as his people use for hold- 
ing something they highly esteem. He was as bald as an &g^y 
his forehead was corduroyed with wrinkles, his eyes dim and 
half closed, and his face weazened like a monkey, while his 
hands were so begrimed and bony that they strongly resembled 
birds'-claws. 

He bowed first to the colonel, and then to his foreign 
guests, after which he placed his treasure upon the ground, 
and, taking off the lid of the box, revealed an article tied up 
in a wadded silk bag, 

" Sallie ought to be here," murmured Fitz. " He is going 
to show us some valuable old pottery Infant, worth a small 
fortune." 



ADIEU TO KARAFUTO. 



281 



Choko slowly undid the fastenings, then produced his 
treasure, which, when he had caressed and rubbed, he handed 
to the colonel, who, after glancing at the relic, passed it to the 
Professor. 

"This is an archaic object," murmured that gentleman. 
" How hard and stone-like it is ! What an exquisite color ! 
how perfect in shape ! " 

" Sallie would admire to see that," said Fitz to Oto. " She 
is way up in art-pottery jargon. She would go crazy over that 
old thinof. It would be too 
exquisitely and complete- 
ly precious, too supremely 
rare, and characteristically 
homely ! She would tell, 
to a day, when it was 
made, and give you a 
representation of the old 
woman squinting at it af- 
ter she had completed its 
manufacture. She is an 

expert, you know, and would term that wrinkled, corrugated, 
rough, common, clumsy amateur attempt at pottery-making, 
* art boiled down.' " 

After the Professor had regarded the specimen for several 
moments, he said to the colonel, — 

" How these fine old pieces of pottery appeal to the culti- 
vated mind ! I suppose that aged man would never part with such 
a treasure. Try and ascertain if he has any idea of its value." 

The colonel and Choko argued for some time, the old 
gentleman evidently having made up his mind to a certain 
price : finally the colonel said, — 




AINO " POTTERY INFANT." 



282 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

" This fellow knows too much. He says he wants a whole 
tub of sake^ and will not take less." 

The Professor mused for a few moments, then replied, — 

" I am, as a matter of principle, opposed to giving these 
paople sake, or any thing that will increase their craving for 
stimulants. However, under the circumstances, I will agree to 
his demand, the sacrifice being made in the cause of science." 

The next day the old man came down to Horotoki, and, 
after delivering the piece of pottery, received his promised 
reward, which he, with the characteristic generosity of a savage, 
proceeded to share witii all Jiis tribe. 

While he was still suffering from the effects of his potations, 
he called at the colonel's house, and, when that gentleman gave 
him an audience, said, — 

"The generosity of these chiefs from afar is beyond my 
power to describe : it is as overwhelming as a rising tide. 
Alas ! even the tide has to ebb, and I have seen the bottom of 
the sake-\x^. Will you please tell the generous stranger, if he 
will give me another such present, I will make him a finer 
piece of old pottery than the last?" 

Then the aged rogue laughed until the tears ran down his 
cheeks. 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 283 



CHAPTER XVI. 

DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 

" After a ma)i has travelled several montlis^ the novelty ceases to viterest him, 
and lie turns his eyes longingly towards JiomeU'' 

" One cannot always live on honey. '' — Japanese Proverb, 

THE party remained nearly a week at Horotoki, then, 
bidding adieu to Col. Goshkoff and his wife, steamed 
down the coast. 

On the second day they touched at a place called the Fall 
of Huroi, an outlet of Lake Tonneicha, a large body of fresh 
water, situated in the highlands overlooking the ocean. 

" I shall have to take my leave of you here," said Lieut. 
Koski. " I cannot express how much I have enjoyed your 
society. I hope to some day meet you again, and to renew 
your very delightful acquaintance." 

"I am awfully sorry we are obliged to part," said Fitz. 
" We shall often think of you out here in the wilds. Can we 
not send you some papers and magazines ? " 

" I do not know whether they would reach me," he 
answered. "We seldom hold communication with Japan, and 
all our mails come through Siberia. I expect my term of 
service will expire next year, when I shall be allowed a fur- 
lough, and, if I am not blown to pieces by the Nihilists, shall 
probably visit the States," 

"You will find us at home," said the Professor ; " and I need 
scarcely say, you will have a hearty welcome." 



284 THE BEAR -WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

They landed with him ; and the last they saw of their friend 
was as he stood, with his Aino servant, on a rocky plateau near 
the waterfall, with his gun upon his shoulder, watching them, 
as they were rowed back to the ship. 

The man-of-war steamed directly for Soya, and, after taking 




HUROI, SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KARAFUTO. 



in a supply of fresh water, proceeded down the eastern coast 
of Yezo to Yesashi, where the travellers went on shore. 

Oto discovered an old friend in the Japanese officer of the 
Kaitakushi, who was endeavoring to make agriculturists of 
the Yezo-jin. His name was Kanaya ; and, having been edu- 
cated at Yale, he was really overjoyed to once more meet 
Americans. 

" I am engaged upon a kind of missionary work," he laugh- 
ingly remarked to the Professor. "The Yezo-jin are like 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 285 

children. They begin very diHgently, break up the ground, 
and plant it just as I teach them ; but in two or three days their 
curiosity gets the better of them, and they dig up the seeds to 
ascertain their progress. I think that shows how impossible it 
is to do any thing with them." 

Fitz chuckled, and said, — 

" Well, if such an act indicates lack of intelligence, I am 
afraid that I must be very little better than your pupils." 

" And I," said Sallie. 

" I believe such curiosity is an inherent weakness of human 
nature," said the Professor. " Even scientific men will some- 
times unearth a seed in order to see how its Pfermination is 
developing." 

Fitz nodded assent, and said very gravely, — 

" Yes, we all do it." 

This made Mr. Kanaya laugh, and say, — 

" Well, sir, and pray of what science are you the pro- 
fessor ? " 

" Of fun," said Johnnie. " He enjoys it more than any boy 
I know." 

" Well, my larks never did anybody harm," remarked the 
merry fellow. "You know what mother says, — it is better to 
laugh than to cry." 

The Professor was about to make one of his characteristic 
speeches, when his wife whispered to him, — 

"Do not lecture, pa: you must save yourself for your 
winter course." 

The gentleman took the hint, and said, — 

" Mr. Kanaya, I can quite sympathize with you, for I have 
had to instruct young Americans who were just as inquisitive 
as your Yezo-jin. By the way, do you think you could commu- 



286 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



nicate with old Poro Parumbe, one of the chiefs who conducted 
us from Hokuyak-bets ? I beHeve we are in his district." 

" Poor old man ! " said Mr. Kanaya, " I have bad news to tell 
you about him. When he reached home, he shared the cask of 
sugar you gave him, between Kure Kina, Taiki Kamoi-yashi, 




PORO PARUMBE'S CANDY-PULL. 



and Setta-eye, and gave a big feast to his tribe. He placed his 
portion of the sugar in an iron pan, and boiled it into candy, 
which I instructed them how to pull. The result was, he ate 
too much, and died the next day." 

"What a sweet ending!" said Fitz. "Guess he was not 
used to taffy." 

" Do not jest upon such a solemn subject," said his father. 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 287 

who imagined, from the boy's twinkling eyes, that he was about 
to further express his opinion. " No doubt, the late chief's 
relatives felt grieved at his untimely decease." 

" It did not seem to trouble them," said Mr. Kanaya. " As 
soon as the old fellow was buried, the tribe assembled, and 
elected another leader." 

" Yes," said Fitz to Sallie. " Do you remember, when Mr. 
Tony Jones the selectman died, the politicians in Cromlech 
wore badges bearing the legend, ' We mourn his loss : ' then, 
when the funeral was over, they went straight to the Town Hall, 
and elected George Skinner Flynt. I guess human nature is 
about the same everywhere. But, sis, you had better take 
warning by the fate of Chief Poro Parumbe, and not eat too 
many caramels." 

" Do not talk about caramels, Fitz," she answered : " it 
makes my mouth water." 

"Well, I'd kinder like to interview a box," he drawled. 
" After all, there is no place like the States ; Is there, Sallie ? " 

" No, indeed," she answered. 

'' As our old guide is no longer living, I think we might call 
upon his successor," said the Professor. " Does he reside far 
from here ? " 

" Hokuyak Namihu is a great hunter," answered Mr. 
Kanaya. "He is constantly on the move. The Ainos are 
beginning to set their fox-traps, and the chief will possibly be 
down at Takoni-bets." 

They camped on shore, and, at daybreak the next morning, 
started in boats. Towards noon the sun became very hot : so 
Mr. Kanaya landed, and cut some bcckonisJiita leaves which he 
distributed to his guests. As the Ainos resumed their poling, 
the official made an awningf of one of the leaves ; and looked 



288 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

SO comical, crouching under it, that Oto made a sketch of 
him. 

"That is clever," said Sallie. "You can almost hear Mr. 
Kanaya saying to the Aino, * Move that iron kettle off those 
rice-bags : I do not want the latter cut, and the contents spilt 
into the bottom of your boat.' " 

" Look at that bird ! " cried Fitz, pointing to a curiously 




USING A BECKONISHITA LEAF. 



crested species of hoopoe, flying overhead. " Is It not a 
comical creature ? " 

Johnnie, who carried a fowling-piece, raised his weapon, and 
fired ; his prize tumbling right Into the bow of the boat. 

" That was well done," said the Professor. " You timed 
your fire with mathematical precision." 

" Oh ! that was only a fluke, sir," said FItz. 

" A what ? " was the stern query. " I believe a fluke Is that 
portion of an anchor which secures It In the ground. It Is 
also a term applied to the points of a whale's tail ; and to 
the distoma hepaticum, a parisltic cotyloid entozobn, with a flat 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 



289 



lanceolate body and two suckers, found in certain organs of 
the ovis aries, or common sheep." 

" I did not speak of any thing as scientific as that, sir," 
said Fitz. " The fluke I referred to is a term used in billiards, 
and means an accidental lucky shot." 

" I never play billiards," replied his father. 

" I wish you would," said Mrs. Jewett. " It would be a good 
thing for you." 




YEZO HOOPOE. 



" Here we are at our destination," said their guide. " Now 
we have to disembark, and be carried about a mile by the 
YezO-jin ; the road-bed being up a canon that is now full of 
water." 

" We can walk," said Mrs. Jewett ; " and I am sure the gen- 
tlemen can." 

" Certainly," added her husband. " We shall, no doubt, land 
upon a very beautiful plateau after we get through this pass." 



290 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



Their guide was amazed at the way the Americans con- 
trived to jump from stone to stone, and he said he did not 
wonder that they had been able to penetrate through the heart 
of Yezo. At the last turn in the caiion, they beheld a curious 
overhanging mass of granite, which looked as though it were 

about to fall upon them. 
" That is like Profile 
Rock in the White Moun- 
tains," remarked Sallie. 
" Whose face do you 
think it resembles?" 

None of the party 
guessed the same per- 
son ; and at last Fitz, 
with his usual smartness, 
exclaimed, — 

" Let us name it Old 
Time's rock." 

" Good!" cried all but 
Mr. Kanaya, who, turning 
to the boy, inquired, — 

"Who is Old Time? 

One of your piominent 

men : 

"Yes: he has been before the public a great many years," 

was the ready response ; " and nobody seems to know how old 

he is. Some say four or five thousand, and others billions of 

years." 

The official gazed at the boy with astonishment, then 
observed, — 

" I understood that he was an old man." 




OLD TIME'S ROCK. 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 291 

"Oh! he is hke your Fuku-roku-jin " (one of the seven 
gods),^"a type or figure of speech, an ideal person, the 
embodiment of a long period ; and is generally depicted as an 
aged gentleman, scantily costumed in a white scarf, carrying a 
scythe in one hand, and an hour-glass in the other. We do 
not make images of him, and worship him as you do Fuku- 
roku-jin." 

"I do not worship that god," gravely answered the 
Japanese. " I thought you understood that we regard The 
Seven Benevolent Ones very much as you do Old Time. I 
now comprehend your remark. Time measures our lives with 
his hour-glass, and cuts them short with his scythe." 

" Excuse me, Mr. Kanaya," said Fitz. "I did not wish to 
annoy you;" then, pointing ahead, cried, " Hullo 1 see that 
animal with its head in a bucket." 

, As he spoke, one of the natives rushed forward, and 
despatched the creature with a club. 

"That is an Aino fox-trap," said Mr. Kanaya. "The 
interior of the bucket is studded with sharp spikes pointing 
downward ; and the trap is baited with seal-flesh, of which the 
foxes are very fond. Once the creature gets its head well in, 
he cannot withdraw it ; and the pain makes him lose all his 
caution, and renders him a very easy prey." 

" I call it a mean act," said Sallie. " The fox does not 
suspect the danger; and when he is blindfolded the Aino 
sneaks up, and takes advantage of the poor thing's painful 
position." 

"Trapping any thing is an underhand way of hunting 
game," said Johnnie. " It is a great deal better to shoot them, 
and end their misery." 

" Suppose you were hungry, and had no gun or other 



292 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

weapon?" queried Fitz. "I do not believe, under those cir- 
cumstances, even you or Sallie would go without supper." 

" Yes ; but they will not eat that fox," retorted his brother. 

" Oh, yes, they will ! " said Fitz, winking. " I tell you there 




AINO FOX-TRAP. 



will not be a morsel of it left to-morrow. Am I not correct, 
Mr. Kanaya ? " 

"Quite," was the answer. "The Yezo-jin, like our wres- 
tlers, are very partial to fox-meat." 

The party rested at a spring, and had luncheon, while some 
of the Ainos went in search of Hokuyak Namihu. Before the 
meal was over they returned, and delivered a long- message to 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 293 

their employer, who appeared exceedingly annoyed with the 
communication. 

"What is the difficulty?" inquired the Professor. 

"Oh, these Ainos are nothing better than animals!" 
answered the official. " My man tells me he has found the 
chief; and that the latter, instead of coming to us, says he is 
tired, and we must go to him." 

" I cannot see any thing very unreasonable in his request," 
answered the Professor. "As chief of his tribe, he expects a 
certain amount of respect ; and we, being intruders, ought to 
call upon him." 

This remark did not suit Mr. Kanaya, who exclaimed,—' 
" Indeed, sir, you do not understand my position. As a 

representative of the Kaita-kushi of the Hokkaido, I cannot 

permit such insolence." 

" Well," was the good-natured response, " then we will go 
alone." 

Mr. Kanaya soon recovered his usual good temper, and 
laughingly remarked, — 

" I could not think of your doing that. Professor. The fact 
is, the fellow drinks too much sake : so I thought his message 
might have been the result of his excess. After all, as Conft- 
cius says, one loses dignity by being angry. Come, we will 
proceed to visit the chief." 

They found Hokuyak Namihu in a hunting-tent, something 
like an Indian tepee, crouched behind a fire, and ^ivino- direc- 
tions to one of his people, who was about to cut up a deer which 
was placed on an enormous becko7tishita leaf. He was a good 
specimen of the Yezo-jin, and was as hairy as his namesake. 

Upon noticing the strangers, he rose, bowed, and said in a 
very gentle voice, — 



294 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



"When I was hunting this morning, the deer kicked me 
severely, and I am unable to walk : please excuse my not going 
to you as I would like to have done." 




CHIEF HOKUYAK NAMIHU. 



" I am sorry that I was hasty," said the young official. " It 
never does to place too implicit confidence in a verbal commu- 
nication. We Japanese have a saying, ' Two mouths will distort 
the meaning of any message.' " 



DOWN THE EASTERN COAST OF YEZO. 295 

The chief willingly submitted to Oto's examination. 

" Three of his ribs are broken," said the young doctor. " It 
is wonderful how these AInos bear pain. Please tell him he 
must remain quite quiet for several days, and not lie upon the 
injured side." 

"You ought to have brought some of your honorable 
plasters," said Fitz. " I advised you to do so." 

The doctor smiled, and replied, — 

" To tell you the truth, I did ; but I missed them when we 
were among the Colletske." 

" Perhaps the natives took them for some kind of preserved 
provisions," said Fitz ; "or they may have kept them as 
charms." 

" Possibly," said Oto. " I have heard of an African negro 
worshipping a porous plaster." 

"Aunt Cynthia Ann does that," said Fitz. "She buys 
them by wholesale, and gives them to the tramps." 

" She might do worse," laughingly answered the doctor. 

He then told the Aino how to take care of himself, and, 
rejoining his party, started for Yesashi. 

They staid on shore two days, and would have remained 
longer, had not Capt. Imadate notified them that a change 
was about to take place in the weather, and they had better 
re-embark; upon learning which, they bade adieu to Mr. 
Kanaya, and returned to the man-of-war. 

On their way down the coast they touched at Yuhito, 
Awashiri, Shiritoya, and Nemoro, then started for Hakodate, 
at which port they arrived on the ist of November. 

It was quite delightful to receive a budget of letters from 
home, and to be in a place where they could sit on chairs, and 
enjoy the society of old friends. 



296 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"■ Children," said the Professor, who had been perusing a 
communication from Tokio, " I have some news for you. The 
Japanese Government has kindly consented to my going home 
by the next steamer, which leaves Yokohama on the 15 th 
of this month. You must have all your treasures packed and 
on board Capt. Imadate's ship in twenty-four hours, as he 
leaves for the South to-morrow evening." 

" Oh ! am I not glad ? " said Sallie. " How I do long to see 
old Cromlech ! " 

"And I," said her parents and brothers. The news from 
their native place had made them all homesick, and even the 
Yezo roses had no charm for them. 

Setta-eye had kept his word, and had sent on the skins of 
the bears they had killed, and many other furs, with a large 
number of Aino productions, such as bows and arrows, 
^inaho, etc. 

As the party was about to embark, they heard a cry, and 
saw Habo, who was carrying something like a child on her 
back, and shouting in Japanese, — 

" Tomare, tomare !'' (Stop, stop!) 

She did not wait until the boat backed In, but waded out to 
it, and, depositing her burden, saluted them in her graceful 
fashion, saying, — 

" Saramba, saramba f' (Farewell !) 

Fitz, for whom the present was intended, unfastened the 
bundle, then, as he glanced at Its living contents, excitedly 
exclaimed, — 

'"Rah! If It Isn't a bear ! " 



HOMEWARD BOUND, 297 



CHAPTER XVII. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

" No matter how beautiful the scenery or how hospitable may be the people of a 
foreign land, the traveller forgets all these things, when, after a long absence, he 
beholds the shore of his native country.'''' 

CAPT. IMADATE kept his word, and landed them at 
Yokohama within the time he had promised. They bade 
him good-by with great regret ; he having been most kind, 
patient, and courteous to them all. 

They found their servants awaiting them on the hatoba, and 
were greeted as though they had just returned from a land 
inhabited by cannibals. 

The Jewetts visited their friends on the bluff, then took the 
first train for Tokio, and that night slept in their old residence 
in the Kaga Yashiki. 

The next week was devoted to farewell calls ; and, but for 
the prospect before them, the young people would have felt 
sorry that their sojourn in the Land of the Rising Sun had 
drawn to a close. 

Mr. and Mrs. Nam"bo, and Oto, spent the greater portion of 
the time with them ; the dear old lady being much grieved at 
the thought of their approaching separation. 

" I know she feels badly because she has not converted 
Sallie to Buddhism," said Fitz. " She is a sweet soul, and 
really believes what she preaches." 

On the morning of their departure Oto's mother announced 



298 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

that she had had a dream, and that she was certain her friends 
would arrive home in safety, and enjoy long and prosperous lives. 

"I had just fallen asleep," she said, "when I saw the gods 
of luck assembled in consultation. All the seven were present, 
— Dai-koku Sama with his hammer, Bishamon Sama in full 
armor, Hotel Sama with his beautiful fat form, Juiro Sama 
with his wise face, Benten Sama lovely and radiant, Yebisu 
Sama looking just as he does when he is about to land a big 
fish, and the venerable and benevolent Fuku-roku-jin Sama, 
with his staff, and with the stork of longevity standing on his 
honorable left hand. Something was evidently pleasing the 
gods, for they were all laughing very merrily. Hotel Sama, 
being president, was the first to speak ; and he said, — 

" ' Usually we do not concern ourselves with the doings of 
foreigners, who, I regret to say, have, with some honorable 
exceptions, treated us very disrespectfully.' 

" ' Yes,' said Bishamon Sama : ' they have induced our 
faithful people to discard the ancient armor and art of warfare, 
to put on tight kimono''' (clothes), "'and to use weapons 
unknown to their honorable ancestors.' 

" ' They have been wise to do that,' said Fuku-roku-jin 
Sama. ' You must fight demons with their own weapons.' 

" ' I agree with you,' said Dai-koku Sama. ' Formerly I 
used to tell my believers, " If you wish to have rice in your 
storehouse, and money in your purse, you must labor for it 
as a miner does with his hammer." Now I advise them to 
use steam, electricity, or any other invention that will keep 
them among the front rank of nations.' 

"'And I,' said Juiro Sama, who was leaning with his face 
upon his hands, ' give them the same counsel. What do you 
say, Yebisu Sama ? ' 



300 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

"The god chuckled, then replied, — 

"'I always tell them, "If you cannot catch a fish with a 
hook, use a spear." Is that right, Benten Sama ? ' 

" The female god cast a languishing glance at her interro- 
gator, then, bowing, answered, — 

" ' I must confess that I admire the foreigners. Although, 
as Hotel Sama has observed, they are not quite as respectful as 
he would like them to be, still they possess many virtues, 
among them being the esteem in which they hold my sex.' 

" ' We know all about that, Benten Sama,' slyly retorted the 
president. ' What I particularly wish to refer to is this. Some 
Americans, who have lived for several years in our country, 
learned our language, and studied our literature, and have 
travelled, not only through the heart of Dai Nihon, but also in 
Yezo, and the distant island of Karafuto, are about to return 
to their native land. I therefore propose that we present them 
with a proof of our interest in and friendship for them. What 
form shall it take ? ' 

" Juiro Sama produced a kakemono, the silk panel of which 
had never been touched with ink, and, handing it to Hotel 
Sama, said, — 

" ' There is one wish that is always appropriate, and is 
understood by the people of all nations. Let Dai-koku Sama 
inscribe it upon the kakemono f ' 

" ' Hai / ' " (Yes) " cried the gods. ' Hai-hai-hai ! ' 

" Dai-koku Sama called for an ink-stone and a brush, and, 
dipping the latter in the liquid, wrote the character ' KotobukV 
(literally, "I hope you will enjoy long life and happiness"). 
" When he had made the last stroke, he held the brush towards 
Hotei-Sama, saying, — 

" ' Have you any thing to add to that ? ' 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 301 

" The god laughed until his whole body quivered, then he 
replied, — 

" ' Nothing, Sama. Your writing is as perfect as the wish.' " 

Mrs. Nambo, bowing, added, — 

" After that I awoke." 

" We are exceedingly obliged to you, dear friend," said 
Mrs. Jewett. " What more could we desire than the blessing 
written upon the kakemono you saw in your dream ? If we all 
enjoy that, we shall indeed be fortunate. May you also have 
like happiness ! " 

The old lady sank upon her knees, placed the palms of her 
hands upon the mats, and, having performed the respectful 
salutation, murmured, — 

" I am entirely unworthy of such a compliment." 

" Come along, mother," shouted Fitz from the veranda. 
" Our jin-riki-sha are at the door. I have got my bear in 
mine. Sallie's pugs are in hers. Johnnie has a box of books, 
and some old raku bowls ; and father is hidden from sight in 
manuscripts. Please hurry up ! Our men are going to race 
to the Shimbashi station. Mind you hold on tight when they 
turn the corners." 

" Old Choso will not go too fast with me," replied his 
parent, as she quitted the house ; adding, when she turned to 
take a last glance at her servants, who were kneeling in the 
veranda, '' Sa'ionara, Sdionaraf" (Farewell.) 

" Sdionara !'' sadly chorused the domestics. 

The run down to the railway-station was accomplished 
quickly ; the only detentions being caused by the Professor, 
who, several times, insisted upon alighting from his vehicle, and 
performing the modern Japanese salutation to some official. 

" I am sure we are late, pa," said Mrs. Jewett. "I do not 



302 THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 

see the good of your bobbing and scraping in that way. You 
are not a Japanese." 

" It pleases them, my dear," he replied. " Remember that I 
am going to lecture upon the manners and customs of these 
people, and I must practise their bow in order to create a sen- 
sation when I make my appearance on the platform." 

Oto and a great crowd of friends were waiting to accom- 
pany them to the port ; and, when the train glided from the 
Shimbashi platform, they were loudly cheered. 

The journey occupied about forty minutes ; and at Yoko- 
hama they were met by other friends, who saw the travellers 
down to the hatoba, and on board the " City of Peking," where 
they were welcomed by genial Capt. Friel, who said, — 

"You are just in time! In another moment I should have 
been compelled to start without you." 

Then came hand-shakings, and sdionara on the part of 
native and foreign friends, the shrill blast of the steam-whistle, 
and a perceptible motion of the vessel ; Oto being the last to 
grasp their hands. 

" Sdionara',' he murmured, " O genkini shetai oide nasai^ 
("Farewell! Continue in good health.") 

The sun was setting as the ship steamed down the Bay of 
Yedo. When the travellers caught the last glimpse of glorious 
Fuji-yama, Sallie exclaimed, — 

" Good-by, Fuji San. We have seen lots of mountains, but 
none as beautiful and majestic as you are. May you long be 
beheld and worshipped from the thirteen provinces ! " 

"Yes," added Fitz. " It would be a very sad thing if Fuji 
were to disappear some night, just as it appeared, all in a hurry, 
' a many years ago.' I have only one regret in leaving Japan : 
that is, we have not ascended Fuji's sacred cone." 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



303 



" I am not sorry," said Johnnie, in a musing tone. " I did 
quite enough Alpine-ckib business in Yezo." 

Mrs. Jewett and the Professor stood together ; abaft and the 
former said, — 

" I am thankful that we are really homeward bound. Of 
what are you thinking, husband ? " 

" Of a title for my first lecture," he replied. " I fear that 
the sweet, do-nothing life we have been leading In Japan will 
have unfitted me for the worry and excitement at home." 

They had fine weather all the way across, and reached the 
Golden Gate exactly seventeen days from the time of quitting 
Yokohama. 

The Jewetts remained a few hours in San Francisco, then 
started across the continent; and after a week on board the 
cars were landed at the Cromlech depot, where they were 
regarded with profound Interest by the loungers, whose chief 
occupation was to see the trains arrive and depart. 

" We-11, I wa-ant to know," drawled one long specimen, 
saluting the boys with a jerk of the head. " Is that a bar 
you've got there, Fitz Jewett ? War hev yer bin tew, all these 
years ? " 

The boy did not reply, being too Intent upon seeing his 
prize stowed in the express-wagon. 

They entered their carriage, and drove along the well- 
remembered road, stopping every now and then to greet old 
friends, who had a hundred questions to ask in a minute. 

At last they ascended the crest of the hill, and beheld their 
home. In a brief space the Jewetts were once more under 
their own roof, and feeling as though they never wished to 
leave it again. 



3^4 



THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO. 



The boys are now at college, and Habo's gift is the terror 
and admiration of all who visit Cromlech. There is some talk 
of sending the animal to the Central-Park menagerie ; but 
whenever the question is mooted, Fitz always interposes the 
pleS, — 

"I do not believe the poor little fellow would be happy 
if he could not see some of us; and remember, sir, he is 
the only living link between us and our old friends, ' The 
Bear-Worshippers of Yezo.' " 





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